View Full Version : Removing shell extractor on bolt assembly
02-09-2012, 02:02 AM
What does it take to knock out the pin that is retaining the other pin to get extractor off the bolt on your basic AKM? Nothing will budge the one I need apart. I have broken every punch so far. Then I machined some short pin punches and they just layed over or broke off. Please someone let me in on the secret to get this apart. It aint rocket science, but I dont like getting the BFH out for such a small part.
02-09-2012, 02:12 AM
Stevespages .com might be a help. Donate if you can it is a great source of info.
02-10-2012, 07:32 PM
there is a punch in the cleaning kit.
you should use tht to push out the firing pin retaining pin, FROM THE BOTTOM of the bolt. it should move easily under hand pressure. teh hole is smaller on the bottom, so DO NOT drive it down from the top.
after that, the firing pin can be removed, as well as the extractor retaining pin.
use the same punch to push the extractor retaining pin out from the drivers side of the bolt toward the top of the bolt on about a 45 deg angle. again, should move easily, also, keep your thumb on the extractor, both to ease spring tension and make retaining pin removal easier, and also to retain the exreactor and spring once freed.
aterfr the retaining pin is out, remove your thumb and the extractor and spring will fall out.
02-11-2012, 12:58 AM
I realized the pin was tapered looking closely under a magnifying glass. It made sense the pin should knock out that way. But...with everything I have tried so far no luck. None of these parts kits I picked up a few years ago came with the cleaning tools. I have been machining short pin punches out of tool steel. Now that you have confirmed what I had assumed was the correct way, will apply more focus as you described. Thanks a bunch for your time and help.
02-11-2012, 01:02 AM
02-11-2012, 07:34 AM
heres the one that comes in the kit. its not very sturdy, as you shouldnt need a lot of pressure. if yours is that tight, there may be a burr or something in there that needs to be cleaned when you have it apart.
02-14-2012, 10:59 PM
OK a followup on the stubborn pin. I ended up using a grade 8, 1/4" allen bolt. I machined the end down to 0.072" and only 1/8" long. A sharp pop with a small ball peen hammer did move the pin slightly, but bottomed out the length of the punch. I cut the punch length a little longer and kept doing so until the pin had gotten loose enough not to bend a long shank punch. All of this only took a total of 10 minutes. I didnt want to tear anything up or replace anything I didnt have to. So slow and easy. The extractor pin took a little effort but then moved out freely. Originally this particular AK parts kit was used unlike all of the others I picked up. The pins were rusted and the reason for extractor not to be working. The hole that extractor fit down in was rusted not allowing it to pivot on the pin. I cleaned up everything and the cross pin then went back in easily the full length. What I did find out is this long pin is not tapered. But the pin hole is not drilled thru large the full length. The pin measured about 0.088", but the bottom of hole was only 0.075". I machined the punch just undersize to knock out pin. It was tight the full length. After cleaning off the signs of rust, this pin knocked back in a lot easier and bottomed out. Thanks for the help. It got this one AK finished and in working order now.
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