Parkerizing questions

[RetVet]

I've got some parkerizing solution from Brownells along with instructions. Got a few questions.

1. The instructions mention using an amount of powdered iron wrapped in a coffee filter to condition the mix before use. Will a like amount of steel wool wrapped in a coffee filter work just as well as the powdered iron?

2. The instructions talk about using Dicro-Clean 909 to clean the parts prior to parking. Will a cleaning with say Purple Power, brake cleaner, or acetone serve the same purpose?

3. Just how picky do you have to be concerning temperature of the parking solution. The instruction recommend against using things like kitchen thermometers or meat thermometers as they won't be accurate enough, yet I've read elsewhere that a kitchen candy thermometer works just fine.

Just trying to set up to do my first parkerizing job ever. I am trying to be frugal as well and don't want to buy stuff for a premium price when I can use suitable substitutes instead.

[Richard Simmons]

This might help

http://www.jouster.com/articles30m1/parkerizing.html

and this

http://www.webshooters.org/diy_home_parkerizing.htm

[SalBO]

also check out the forum at parkerizingtanks.com (http://www.parkerizingtanks.com)

I just bought two gallons of Brownells park and a tub of the iron but I havent used up my old batch I got from Allegheny. I have read about using brake drum filings and steel wool to age park solutions in the forum above but I dont remember if it was Brownells. That is a good forum to read. It isnt very popular or busy but there are some good posts on it......

[SalBO]

as far as degreasing, brake cleaner and acetone work well. If you use purple power you have to make sure to get all of it off before dipping. The same for acetone and rake cleaner but they are easier to remove in my opinion. It isnt rocket science but grease or oil is a killer for the finished product and your solution. I put all the small parts for two kits in about 4 inches of solution in a Stainless pot I stole from the overhead rack in the kitchen :) and cooked the parts on the stovetop for 20 minutes and they turned out perect.....just dont get to the point of it not being fun is my point.

[SalBO]

as far as temp goes. It has to be 175 degrees to work. It will work even hotter but if you boil it , it will evaporate your solution.......I had my pot of parts boiling a couple times with not problem. I just stirred my parts like a big pot of soup every few minutes for 20 minutes with no problems.......

[bsims]

Steel wool works, but most steel wool also contains oils to keep it from rusting. Make sure to thoroughly degrease it first.

For degreasing, I usually soak it in a bath of TSP or a dilution of simple green w/ hot water for a bit, then go over it with some acetone. Brake cleaner a bit too harsh for my tastes... Not sure about brake cleaner, but some carb cleaners now contain lubricants, so be careful of that.

I've used a candy thermometer just fine... I think the only issue with it getting too hot is that you are evaporating more water than needed. I think being above the minimum temp is more important. I try to keep it around 175F.

Brian

[SalBO]

Brian, so you degrease with TSP and the acetone ? TSP or acetone arent enough alone ?

[RetVet]

Thanks for the info guys! BTW, what TSP?

[SalBO]

Tri sodium penisoil.....:D .....I dont remember what it stands for. You can get it at Lowes. I bought a bottle for about 6 bucks ? Mix with water and use........

[bsims]

Originally posted by SalBO
Brian, so you degrease with TSP and the acetone ? TSP or acetone arent enough alone ?

Sorry - meant to clarify... that's what I've done in the past for really gunked up, cosmo'ed stuff. I usually will soak it in a bath of TSP or simple green cause its cheap, but if it is really bad, I don't think this gets quite all the cosmo, grease, etc out - at the very least, you are gonna get the film on the top of the bath. So, I'll wipe it down with acetone - dries fast and gets anything remaining. Baking in the oven is also good - cooks anything out of the nooks and crannies.

If you are talking an already cleaned up gun that is just normally lubed, either will probably work - the soak gets everything out of the joints, etc., though. Unless you are gonna really hose it down with acetone in an airbrush or something...

Brian

[SalBO]

thanks, actually I was referring to pre park dip degreasing. After they have been blasted.........and before they go into the park tank.........