cabinetman
02-06-2004, 01:57 PM
Hi all.
I’d just like to share my experience with you all. I’ve done a lot of research on the subject of building and have just about completed my project successfully.
There are three ways you get obtain an AR15. 1) Buy the rifle outright, ready to shoot, 2)buy a complete “kit” and add a receiver, and 3) buy the parts “a-la-cart” from all different sources. All of these three ways will provide you with an excellent, high-quality AR15 clone.
Before you start, you really need to identify what model of AR15 clone you are looking for . This is not a small issue. If you’re willing to settle for “just another EBR”, then just about anything you look at will be interesting and acceptable. Otoh, you may want a particular model: A1, A2, CAR, folder, etc., etc. In that event, you will have to do some research as to what’s available in all three areas; buy complete, buy a kit, or buy a-la-cart.
Buying ready to shoot:
The best way to start is to simply make a list of the features you want, the model you want, then start searching through the plethora of AR15 suppliers out there to see what they have on hand. If you buy complete, you’ll spend anywhere from $500 up. You’ll quickly see that you can easily spend $1000+ for a particular model. That’s why you really need to identify what kind of AR you’re looking for. Once you’ve done that, you can compare what it will cost to tackle the other two options.
Buying a Kit and Lower Receiver:
You’ve selected a model AR so now do a Google search on the web for “AR15 kits” and also search SGN, and local shops. Buying a “kit” means that the kit will have 100% of the parts needed to assemble a complete rifle on your stripped lower. I’ve seen them for a little as $400 for an A2, 20” model. They go up in price from there, depending on the barrel, stock, etc. You’ll end up paying more for the more exotic models, obviously. Search through all of their options, keeping the rifle you want in mind. Again, make a list of what’s available, what each kit includes, and their prices.
Now, if you’re going to build, you’ll need a lower receiver which is the FFL piece. Quantico arms has them for $75 on sale. IMHO You won’t be able to find a better price for such a great lower receiver, period. It’s an Armalite made by Eagle Arms and it’s beautiful. All that being said, there are competitors out there that other guys prefer. Find the one you want and add the price . Keep in mind that you may also have to add and any other options you might want or need (922r compliance parts, etc.)
Buying A-La-Cart
Buying “a-la-cart” is the best way to get precisely what you want but will require some patience and knowledge. You really need a reason to do it this way. In my case I had decided that I was going to build the earliest model of the M16/AR15 clone I could possibly build. That meant I’d need a Colt military A1 upper with triangular handguards and no forward assist on the upper receiver. I actually ended up spending a lot of time on eBay. I searched for “AR15” and found over 1300 items being offered. I actually found two of the authentic Colt pre-ban upper assemblies and finally picked one, using the “buy it now” feature paying $285, which is a good price for it. I could have waited for the auction but I figured that they would sell for close to the Buy It Now price so why wait? There were others available on different forums in the “traders” sections but they all ran in that price line. I had already purchased the Quantico Arms lower receiver for $75. So, I now owned the bulk of the rifle.
Now I needed a bolt, which I also purchased on eBay for $100 brand new. I also needed the lower receiver parts kit which I purchased from J&T for $54. That price seemed like a constant everywhere. I also needed a charging handle, eccentric front pivot pin (because of the difference between military hole in the upper and civilian hole in the lower receiver) and an A1 butt stock assembly. I found that I could purchase all of these items for $85 from CDNN. Again, make a list and shop ‘till your fingers bleed and head swells. As an example, CDNN did also offer the A1 upper for a full $100 MORE than I paid on eBay. However their prices for the A1 buttstock was only $48 or a good 40% lower than anyone else. The charging handle was also a great price. Seems no one wants the A1 buttstock but I sure did.
So, the total of all the components to build a 100% AR15/M16 A1 Clone cost me $545.00. What I did not add in here was all the shipping costs which were not insignificant and, rounded up, ran another $45 total. So, with shipping I spent about $600 for everything, ready to assemble. Everything fits like a glove and the rifle is coming out perfectly. However, we’re still not done.
I had to purchase a new flash hider. Again, for authenticity, I wanted something that was a duplicate of the original but legal. (Pre-ban flash hider is illegal.) I opted for a CavComp for $24 shipped.
We still need mags. I bought 4 from J&T for a total of $41. (excellent quality) Then I decided that I’d better have some tools on hand. I purchased some from Bushmaster for $100 which included a barrel wrench, handguard removal tool, and both go and no/go gauges. There is no way I’d shoot a constructed rifle without checking the headspaceing. However, I will be selling these tools after I’m finished with them, recovering some of my costs there. I’ll keep the handguard removal tool as it works great.
Finally, ammo. The least expensive ammo I could find also turns out to be the best: Federal FMJ, brass cased Lake City brass. I purchased 1000 rounds from Wholesale Hunter for about $160 delivered. You can not find a better price for such a quality ammo, period..
So, all up, I’ve got about $660 invested in the rifle, mags, and compliance part. I’ve got another $260 in ammo and tools but ammo would be required, anyway, and the tools were an extra and I’ll recover my cost when they’re sold so really doesn’t figure into the equation of building.
I’m extremely pleased with the results so far. In a couple of days, I’ll have the CDNN order and will complete the rifle. It is by far the most authentic rendition of this rifle that I could find, built or purchased. And, for the money, it was worth every penny as there was no scrimping but it did take a lot of computer time. That’s half the fun though, isn’t it?? And, having the BBT stop at your house every other day for one more delivery is worth it as well.
I’ll close by saying that I did start this project by making an order with SARCO back in the beginning of January. They advertised a kit for $287, complete for an A2. Add a receiver and you’re only up to $362 plus some shipping. You would also need the new comp for another $24. So, for about $400, you’d have a 20" A2 which you could not touch on the open market for a ready-to-shoot rifle. Unfortunately, they are on a “permanent” backorder which is constantly extended two weeks at a time. I may accept it when it finally arrives but the verdict is still out on that.
Building is well within ANYONE’s ability, btw. The AR does not require special tools but a good set of instructions. I was able to build the lower kit into the receiver in about 20 minutes and only used a small drift and pocket knife. The rest is gravy. This is 100 times easier than a FAL and 150 times easier than a CETME. There is no welding or any other special jigs you need.
Hope this helps. If anyone has a question, feel free to ask.
Rome
I’d just like to share my experience with you all. I’ve done a lot of research on the subject of building and have just about completed my project successfully.
There are three ways you get obtain an AR15. 1) Buy the rifle outright, ready to shoot, 2)buy a complete “kit” and add a receiver, and 3) buy the parts “a-la-cart” from all different sources. All of these three ways will provide you with an excellent, high-quality AR15 clone.
Before you start, you really need to identify what model of AR15 clone you are looking for . This is not a small issue. If you’re willing to settle for “just another EBR”, then just about anything you look at will be interesting and acceptable. Otoh, you may want a particular model: A1, A2, CAR, folder, etc., etc. In that event, you will have to do some research as to what’s available in all three areas; buy complete, buy a kit, or buy a-la-cart.
Buying ready to shoot:
The best way to start is to simply make a list of the features you want, the model you want, then start searching through the plethora of AR15 suppliers out there to see what they have on hand. If you buy complete, you’ll spend anywhere from $500 up. You’ll quickly see that you can easily spend $1000+ for a particular model. That’s why you really need to identify what kind of AR you’re looking for. Once you’ve done that, you can compare what it will cost to tackle the other two options.
Buying a Kit and Lower Receiver:
You’ve selected a model AR so now do a Google search on the web for “AR15 kits” and also search SGN, and local shops. Buying a “kit” means that the kit will have 100% of the parts needed to assemble a complete rifle on your stripped lower. I’ve seen them for a little as $400 for an A2, 20” model. They go up in price from there, depending on the barrel, stock, etc. You’ll end up paying more for the more exotic models, obviously. Search through all of their options, keeping the rifle you want in mind. Again, make a list of what’s available, what each kit includes, and their prices.
Now, if you’re going to build, you’ll need a lower receiver which is the FFL piece. Quantico arms has them for $75 on sale. IMHO You won’t be able to find a better price for such a great lower receiver, period. It’s an Armalite made by Eagle Arms and it’s beautiful. All that being said, there are competitors out there that other guys prefer. Find the one you want and add the price . Keep in mind that you may also have to add and any other options you might want or need (922r compliance parts, etc.)
Buying A-La-Cart
Buying “a-la-cart” is the best way to get precisely what you want but will require some patience and knowledge. You really need a reason to do it this way. In my case I had decided that I was going to build the earliest model of the M16/AR15 clone I could possibly build. That meant I’d need a Colt military A1 upper with triangular handguards and no forward assist on the upper receiver. I actually ended up spending a lot of time on eBay. I searched for “AR15” and found over 1300 items being offered. I actually found two of the authentic Colt pre-ban upper assemblies and finally picked one, using the “buy it now” feature paying $285, which is a good price for it. I could have waited for the auction but I figured that they would sell for close to the Buy It Now price so why wait? There were others available on different forums in the “traders” sections but they all ran in that price line. I had already purchased the Quantico Arms lower receiver for $75. So, I now owned the bulk of the rifle.
Now I needed a bolt, which I also purchased on eBay for $100 brand new. I also needed the lower receiver parts kit which I purchased from J&T for $54. That price seemed like a constant everywhere. I also needed a charging handle, eccentric front pivot pin (because of the difference between military hole in the upper and civilian hole in the lower receiver) and an A1 butt stock assembly. I found that I could purchase all of these items for $85 from CDNN. Again, make a list and shop ‘till your fingers bleed and head swells. As an example, CDNN did also offer the A1 upper for a full $100 MORE than I paid on eBay. However their prices for the A1 buttstock was only $48 or a good 40% lower than anyone else. The charging handle was also a great price. Seems no one wants the A1 buttstock but I sure did.
So, the total of all the components to build a 100% AR15/M16 A1 Clone cost me $545.00. What I did not add in here was all the shipping costs which were not insignificant and, rounded up, ran another $45 total. So, with shipping I spent about $600 for everything, ready to assemble. Everything fits like a glove and the rifle is coming out perfectly. However, we’re still not done.
I had to purchase a new flash hider. Again, for authenticity, I wanted something that was a duplicate of the original but legal. (Pre-ban flash hider is illegal.) I opted for a CavComp for $24 shipped.
We still need mags. I bought 4 from J&T for a total of $41. (excellent quality) Then I decided that I’d better have some tools on hand. I purchased some from Bushmaster for $100 which included a barrel wrench, handguard removal tool, and both go and no/go gauges. There is no way I’d shoot a constructed rifle without checking the headspaceing. However, I will be selling these tools after I’m finished with them, recovering some of my costs there. I’ll keep the handguard removal tool as it works great.
Finally, ammo. The least expensive ammo I could find also turns out to be the best: Federal FMJ, brass cased Lake City brass. I purchased 1000 rounds from Wholesale Hunter for about $160 delivered. You can not find a better price for such a quality ammo, period..
So, all up, I’ve got about $660 invested in the rifle, mags, and compliance part. I’ve got another $260 in ammo and tools but ammo would be required, anyway, and the tools were an extra and I’ll recover my cost when they’re sold so really doesn’t figure into the equation of building.
I’m extremely pleased with the results so far. In a couple of days, I’ll have the CDNN order and will complete the rifle. It is by far the most authentic rendition of this rifle that I could find, built or purchased. And, for the money, it was worth every penny as there was no scrimping but it did take a lot of computer time. That’s half the fun though, isn’t it?? And, having the BBT stop at your house every other day for one more delivery is worth it as well.
I’ll close by saying that I did start this project by making an order with SARCO back in the beginning of January. They advertised a kit for $287, complete for an A2. Add a receiver and you’re only up to $362 plus some shipping. You would also need the new comp for another $24. So, for about $400, you’d have a 20" A2 which you could not touch on the open market for a ready-to-shoot rifle. Unfortunately, they are on a “permanent” backorder which is constantly extended two weeks at a time. I may accept it when it finally arrives but the verdict is still out on that.
Building is well within ANYONE’s ability, btw. The AR does not require special tools but a good set of instructions. I was able to build the lower kit into the receiver in about 20 minutes and only used a small drift and pocket knife. The rest is gravy. This is 100 times easier than a FAL and 150 times easier than a CETME. There is no welding or any other special jigs you need.
Hope this helps. If anyone has a question, feel free to ask.
Rome