Knife Sharpening?

[gi_janearng]

What do you use? What do you prefer?


When I was just starting getting into edges, I bought a little sharpener off of uscav.com that you could hook to your key chain.
It isn't very big and it has a coarse and fine side to it and all you do is run your blade through it a few times. It doesn't do well for me.

When I was out at NTC, I found a wet stone in the PX, so I bought that. I have grown accustomed to using it to sharpen my K-Bar and every other knife I use that needs sharpening.

A little elbow grease never hurt anyone. :)

[Citizen]

Can you say Lansky. The one and the only.

[PeeWee]

Jane,,you must try a ceramic stick,,,,you will never go back to the stone!!

[gi_janearng]

I have heard ceramic mentioned many times, but have never found any sold around here. Any certain brands, or would any old one do?

[5KNIVES]

Jane,
IMHO, the Lanskey system is very good, but if you're serious about sharp knives, and if you cant pop the hair of off your arm it is not sharp (according to me anyhow). Check out the Spyderco tri-angle Sharpmaker. It's pricey, maybe as much as $50 (save some money, buy it from the internet dealers). And you'll agree it's worth every penny.
Slow if you have to re-profile the usual crappy grind you get out-of-the box on some surprisingly high priced knives today. That's where the Lansky system works well. Having both is a good idea!

you can easily get a true razor edge on a Ka-Bar, and it's possible to emulate a convex edge geometry so that it holds that edge a surprisingly long time. after some rough chores.

[Optimus Prime]

The Spderco Kit is very good, also comes with an instructional video for the new comers.

[ponder]

I use a dmt diamond whetstone when i sharpen my knives. Diamonds are not just a girl's best friend any more.:D

[chucku]

DIAMOND STONE. Cost me $100 bucks for a kit. They sell cheaper ones but I like the full size stones. I tried many others but havent found anything that comes close.

[quigleysharps4570]

Gotta agree with you on the stone route GI Jane. Spent 10 of my working years in a meat packing house, used a combination stone, course/medium. Still use them to this day. On the pocket knife I carry, when I've worked it with the combo, I finish it on an Arkansas stone with oil.

[Deer Sniper]

Lansky!! I use the extra fine and the extra coarse and the ultra fine ceramic. Thats all you need. But like someone said sometimes you need to grind a proper angle on a new knife so you can use it. If you put a little practice in with the lansky everyone you know will want you to sharpen thier knives because yours are so sharp. It's kinda like being the guy everyone wants to help them sight in thier rifle.

[HDR]

I use plain old arkansas soft stone, then follow it with a arkansas hard. Oil or water works.

Sharp enough to shave hair or too sharp to skin game..

[hardcorps1775]

i prefer a six pack of beer...as in, "hey, dude, if you sharpen my knife i'll give you a six pack of beer"...:D i SUCK at knife sharpening, it really is an art.

[HDR]

Years ago, Americans had a lot of pottery in the home and you can sharpen a knife on it..

I read about and tried, it really works well.

[5KNIVES]

gi_janearng
______________________________________
When I was out at NTC, I found a wet stone in the PX, so I bought that. I have grown accustomed to using it to sharpen my K-Bar and every other knife I use that needs sharpening.
______________________________________

you've already been through the learning curve then, and you know that the only secret is maintaining the same angle throughout the process. With a stone you learn how to do it by trial and error.

The advantage of the Lanskey system and the Spyderco ceramics is that they make it easy to keep the same angle with each stroke. The sharpening just goes faster for most people, and the results are more uniform. Neither system will "dish" the way a natural stone will, (then the angles really change).

I like the natural stones, used them for many years but you need an 8" or better for all around use, and you need at the very least 3, in varying grit of course. That can get expensive, and that set up is bulky and heavly. compared to the other suggestions. Lansky and Spyderco are certainly pack size, and light, if not quite pocket sizeed. Gatco and Myerco have similar systems. Myerco makes a nice little pocket sharpening tool also ($25 or so)

I carry a 3x5 ultra-fine diamond on steel plate in my wallet, because I will not let any knife I own get too dull for that to re-sharpen to a shaving edge.

But those edge angles (edge geometry) are very important, and ideally different depending on the task you're using the blade at.

Meat cutting wants a different edge than cutting cardboard or webbing. Ideally wood cutting is different yet. Most of the systems, give you a good all purpose angle around 18 to 22 degrees.

Then of course there's how to get those lovely paper thin tomato slices, without buying a ^&$#%^%^ set of Ginsu knives. Ah, lets go there right now!

Best Wishes

[ZEKE/PA]

Originally posted by Optimus Prime
The Spderco Kit is very good, also comes with an instructional video for the new comers.
My belief is that there is nothing to compare with the Spyderco system.
For years I have used a medium India- Hard Arkansas combination with great success but the Spyderco , while pricey, is much easier , much faster and much more user friendly.
Regards, Zeke

[TheRebel22]

how do u even use a knife sharpener.. i am a complete sharpener noob! do u just rub it on both sides?

[5KNIVES]

TheRebel22
You got it. ... But, it's critical to keep the blade at the precisely same angle to the stone with every stroke. that's where the practice comes in. Most people will use up a knife or two before they get the feel for it, each stroke is removing part of your blade. A lot if not most knives sold in the U.S are pathetic. The basic grind angles are usually wrong, and really need to be re-done. Thats called re-profiling. The reason for this is that all knives are hand finished and ground at the last stages. And that costs money. It should be the case that the more you pay for the knife, the better quality of the edge, unfortunately that's not always true.

The best answer for someone starting out is the lansky system, It's not that expensive, the kit is compact and long lasting. it uses a clamp to keep the blade at the correct angle, and you can do some reprofiling with it, if you need to.

The next step up is the Spyderco system, about $50, you cant really reprofile a blade with it (thats best done carefully with a belt sander anyway) but it will give you a better, sharper edge than the Lansky system. The top of the line hand sharprner is the Edge Pro System $200 to over $300 for their setup, it's awesome but impossible to justify unless you're in the business in some fashion. There are some fantastic things you can do with plate glass, wet dry sand paper, and (believe it or not) a computer mouse pad, way to involved to discuss here.! Trust me on that one!

Suggest you get a Lansky system and go from there if you need to.

Most people sharpen their knives to death, litterally!

Once you get a good edge to your satisfaction, when it starts to dull and drag, you'll easily restore the edge with a extra-fine stone, It wont need the full resharpening process if you keep it touched up.
I carry a extra fine diamond, 3x 5 on a thin steel plate in my wallet for just that purpose.

the same concept as a butchers steel. Rarely sharpened, but the steel used lot to realign the microscopic "teeth" that are really your edge.

When I was a kid, killing and butchering various critters for 8 hours a day, I had between 8 and 14 knives in the block, if 1 got used for even 3 or 4 cuts, I used the steel before it went back in the block. Rarely had to sharpen a knife.

There is an excellent little book on the market, and I'm drawing a blank on the author and the title. The Author REALLY knows what he's talking about.
I think if you went to

www.eknifeworks.com

and did a search for book you might find it, $12 or so I think.

Hope this helps, have fun!
____________________________________
Edited to add:

Finally remembered the book!
(Its NOT the age, it's those D__n blood pressure pills)

The Book is:

"Sharpening Made Easy"

by Steve Bottorf

buy it and follow his advice if you're serious about sharp knives!

[tygrstryp]

Norton Bench Stone. It is big and has coarse and fine sides.( It really pays to be a machinist- cheap goodies for working with metal!)

[Buster Charlie]

Which Lansky kit should I get?

Also, should you sharpen bayonets or are they best left dull?

[ponder]

Buster Charlie most bayonets have very thick edges so it will be hard to sharpen it to an edge like on a knife, but i say go for it.

[5KNIVES]

Buster Charlie
Start with the Lansky Standerd Kit, $21.99 at eknifeworks, probably more at your local sport or gun shop. Then get the Super Fine replacement stone for $6.99, same story. After you get an edge you're satisfied with, finish up with the superfine. Then use it regularly for touch up. You'll rarely need to actually go through the whole sharpening process again with that knife unless you abuse it in some way. (Yes, knives are for cutting, but we all use them for screw drivers and pry bars once in a while! don't we? )

suggest you do not spend the money for the diamond stones at first. if ever. They simply wont make the difference you would expect.

I am NOT affiliated with

www.eknifeworks.com

in any way, Just been a satisfied customer since long before the Internet existed.

Bayonets? Welllll.........brings back memories, and some smiles. First we got our pocket knives confiscated, then they issued us our Bayonets, then we got the lecture that our Garand and cut down 1917 bayonets were dull because they were designed to rip and tear, creating wounds that were difficult to treat. Then we got the lecture that we would be court martialed for destruction of Gov. property if we tried to sharpen them!

Then of course we all set out to sharpen them. We were not very successful. ROTFLMAO!

The blade grinds were so steep to begin with so that any attempt to sharpen them without grinding the whole blade down only made them less sharp!

The bayonets issued later were more knife like, and you could get a halfway usable edge on them. Always the same basic problem though, the spine is very thick, to give rigidity with poorer quality steel.

If my friend ugly_finn is listening, this does not apply to Finnish bayonets. They're basicly long puukkos to begin with. And THEY can be sharpened.

If you would like to totally waste a week or two, you could try sharpening a Swede bayonet like I did once. Wore out 2 stones and 3 files and all I did was polish it up a little! May be just the one I had, but I never tried again, that was the hardest piece of steel I've ever seen.

The thickness of the spine and the angle to the edge determine your success.

I don'i know the current designations, (I sort of stalled out with, m1, m1911-a1, etc, low numbers!) But one of my nephews asked me to put an edge an issue bayonet for his AR-15, and I was able to get an edge okay for gutting deer or such, in a reasonable time.

hope this helps ... Have Fun!

[custer]

I've tried everything to get the right angle to avoid the false edge.

I've given up. I just can not acquire the skill.

I often take mine to gun shows and let a pro do it.

[HDR]

Depending one what the knife will be used for there's different angles..


When you sharpen a knife, look at the edge, it should all be the same "texture" If you see little "spots" those are showing the different angles you held the blade to the stone.

The blade grinds were so steep to begin with so that any attempt to sharpen them without grinding the whole blade down only made them less sharp
That's pretty typical with bayonets of the era...

http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//3072/2320knife-med.jpg
These really needed ground..

The spine or the side of the knife opposite the edge is about .3" thick.

[8dDUCE]

I was told once by my 1st Saregent, if you ever get lost, just sit down and start sharpening your knife. In 5 minutes you have 20 people tell you, that's not how you sharpen a knife. Everyone does it differently, if it works for you then use it. I prefer oil and stones. 8dDUCE.

[DIRKDIGGLER6903]

Has anyone tried sharpening a swiss double edge bayonet? Guy that sold it to me said it was stainless. Looks like its plated to me.

[LHS]

I've tried to sharpen knives with a whetstone, but I just can't seem to keep a consistent angle, and I've ruined a few good knives trying to learn. Nowadays, I simply take my Benchmade to the SHOT show and have them resharpen and re-fit it at the factory, then mail it back to me. They've not charged me a penny for such services, and I can't argue with the edge that comes back to me. In the intervening year, I have one of my more skilled friends sharpen them. For a while, I just bought cheap knives and replaced them when they got dull. Then I got attached to a few of my blades, and I can't part with them.

[AKMac]

Is it possible to get "hair popping" sharpness with the lanskey kit?

[5KNIVES]

AKMac,

Is it possible to get "hair popping" sharpness with the lanskey kit?

Shaving sharp, yes.

Hair popping sharp? Never tried but I don't think so. If i can find my Lansky kit this weekend, I'll let you know. My neighbor asked me to sharpen his Schrade 80T and it looks like he used it to cut concrete blocks (WHY do people do things like that to decent knives, and then keep on trying to use them, like they're going to repair themselves or something?)

I usually finish with a spyderco Sharpmaker and call it good.

The only way I know to really get hair popping sharp involves things like wet dry sandpaper, glass blocks, mousepads and polishing compound of several grades. And/or well seasoned razor strops.

Never tried to see how far I could get with a lansky system, be interesting to try. I suspect that the slight variation in angle caused by moving the stone in something of an arc( however small) would interfere with ultimate hair popping sharpness.

Maybe someone else here knows and can educate the both of us.

[azreloader]

Originally posted by DIRKDIGGLER6903
Has anyone tried sharpening a swiss double edge bayonet? Guy that sold it to me said it was stainless. Looks like its plated to me.

DIRK,

I tried to put an edge on mine. Not plated for sure. Just so thick it would take forever unless you have a wheel of some kind.

They were designed for a thrust rather than a slash so that would explain the lack of edge. Would make a great mine probe though!:rockin:

[JA]

The Lansky is the only way to go for anyone starting out learning how to sharpen a knife. The whole deal is that it holds the stone at the same angle as it makes contact with the knife blade all the time. Even a "noob" can get a really good edge on any knife with the Lansky sharpner. There is really no skill involved like it is using just a stone and trying to sharpen a knife "freehand".
I start out with the Lansky corse if the edge is damged. Other wise the medium stone restablishes the correct angled edge and then a hard Arkansas stone to finish it up freehand. My pocket knives unless I have done some heavy duty cutting stuff I shouldn't have with it a few minuites with the Arkansas stone will bring it back to "hair popping" sharpness.

The best way to tell if you have your knive sharp enough is with a piece of paper. Hold the paper between your thumb and fingers then cut off a corner with the blade at a 45 degree angle to the paper. Start cutting the corner off with the rear of the blade and pull the away from the paper so you cut with the whole length of the blade and not just one spot. Then look really close at the cut. If your knive is sharp enough the papers edge should be completly smooth where cut with no torn fibers showing. If your knife will cut the paper smooth it will shave hair with no problem.

[HDR]

Another way to tell how sharp a knife is, is drag the edge across a fingernail. If it cuts its sharp, if it tugs as it cuts, there are burrs

[AKMac]

I just bought the Lansky system. I'm really looking forward to giving it a try!

[mr tibbles]

sharpening is easy just basicly go at it after some practice youl get it the lansky system is good but i cant get to shave and diamonds dont require any oil or even water best of getting a DMT fine ( red ) diamond hone it can acheive a hair shaving edge easy also try using the coarsest stone/grit you can slice into the stone base to point then after that do just the oppisite dragging the edge backwards at the same angle this gets it sharper while at the same time ( since your still using a coarse grit ) the micro serrations caused by minor imperfections in the stone give a drag that you check by laying the edge on your thumbnail and carefully pulling back as if trying to cut this helps a lot expecaily when cutting rope and stuff ( makes it harder to slice paper but just as easy to shave with ) if you still dont think its sharp enough swicth to a finer grit and do the same slice ( 4 to 5 times each side ) then backwards after this if you want it realy sharp take a stroke or two per side with a ceramic rod ( no more per side than four or youl lose the micro serrations you worked so hard for ) after this and a little practce at it your kniife will out cut most anyone elses :cool:

[dfariswheel]

Lanski is good, but I prefer the Gatco sets.
The stones are wider, and don't dish-out as fast.

Also their guide rod system is easier to use.

[AKM]

I remember when I was about 13yrs old I had a friend (also 13) sharpen my Old Timer.He sharpened it in a couple of minutes with a regular stone and he handed it back to me and within a minute or so I sliced my finger.My friend put a razor edge on that knife in no time.Me on the other hand,I can try and sharpen all day long and the blade gets duller and duller.It's all in the technique and technique is something that I don't have when it comes to sharpening a knife.

[dogface-gi]

I have ceramic rods and all that stuff, best edge I can get is with an Arkansas moonstone and a little oil then finish with a home made leather strap. Even got my AK bayos to a shaving edge.

[ZEKE/PA]

I have ceramic rods and all that stuff, best edge I can get is with an Arkansas moonstone and a little oil then finish with a home made leater strap. Even got my AK bayos to a shaving edge.
Amen to the strop idea.
I use the strop as a finishing touch to the Spyderco.
My strop(s):
1/2"x 1and1/2" x 12" wood with an old belt glued on and trimmed to fit.
Zeke

[dogface-gi]

That's what I made mine out of to, an old belt :) If it works don't fix it !

[Cevulirn]

Sharpest edge I've ever gotten was sharpening it on the Spyderco Tri-angle sharp maker, then taking it out and using the buffing wheel and jewelers rouge to polish the edge. Got it about half way between shaving sharp, and hair poping sharp. (I.E. sharp enough to actually shave your face with, not just cut a few hairs.)