Qs for slamfire

[R.Neumann]

Hey slam. I am gonna do one of your 12.5 builds and I was wondering where you got the rail for the bottom there. If it is Alu can you actually silver solder it? Is there any way that you know of to line it up so perhaps a laser can be mounted and be "somewhat" close to POI.

Sorry for all the questions but I am itching to get one done.

One last thing. Instead of buying one of Hoplo's beautiful trunnions, do you think it feasible to do a little machine work to a standard rear trunnion and then weld in a plate to fill the buttstock gap. I would reanneal the entire reciever after this to try to get rid of stresses.

Thanks for your time....ahead of time.

PS anything else you could tell me that might be of interest would be lovely

[toxic]

One last thing. Instead of buying one of Hoplo's beautiful trunnions, do you think it feasible to do a little machine work to a standard rear trunnion and then weld in a plate to fill the buttstock gap. I would reanneal the entire reciever after this to try to get rid of stresses
Not to chime in on Slamfire but you absolutely can build a pistol trunnion from a standard akm rear trun. The trunnion on the right is one I made from a romy standard rear trunnion. Hope this helps.http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//500/28314DSC00012-med.JPG ref: middle is polish uf, far left is amd converted to uf.

[SLAMFIRE51]

Toxic,
Chime in anytime you like.
BTW, I need 2 of those trunions. :big:

R.Neumann,

First of all, :welcome: to Gunsnet. :up:
Never apologize for asking questions around here. Everyone learns from questions.

I'm assuming you have a rear stock trunion riveted in place, otherwise you would take the trunion off to weld it.
My advice is to use heat sink paste on the receiver while welding or use a wet cloth wrapped around the receiver to keep it cool.
I really don't think annealing the receiver is a good idea. Warpage would be a big concern. I'd rather keep it cool while welding.

The rail I used is a AR-15 accessory rail available most everywhere. It is tapered and matches the taper on the AMD metal lower. I eliminated the raised hump on the AMD lower, marked the holes from the rail onto the lower, and drilled holes. Very thin nuts will have to be used (grinding standard nuts is a must), and machine screws will possibly have to be cut to length. Otherwise, your cleaning rod will not go into it's position.

http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//500/19532AMD_metal_newest_HG_s33105_004.jpg

[R.Neumann]

Actually my kits have not even shown up yet I just wanted to get the questions out of the way first so I wouldnt have to wait! Do I appear overeager?.......nah

[SLAMFIRE51]

Actually my kits have not even shown up yet I just wanted to get the questions out of the way first so I wouldnt have to wait! Do I appear overeager?.......nah

Nah.

But I am everytime I start a new build.
Welcome to the club. :big:

[poppop]

Toxic,
Chime in anytime you like.
BTW, I need 2 of those trunions. :big:

R.Neumann,

First of all, :welcome: to Gunsnet. :up:
Never apologize for asking questions around here. Everyone learns from questions. :dunno: 05_004.jpg[/IMG]
[Never apologize for asking.....]I'd like to ask a few too! What size holes do I need to drill in the receiver to weld the rails in place? [and how many?] I tryed 1\8 on some scrap, all I got was filled holes, no penatration. I would also like info on heat treating.What's best, how to etc... Thank you for any help you can offer. poppop :dunno:

[SLAMFIRE51]

[Never apologize for asking.....]I'd like to ask a few too! What size holes do I need to drill in the receiver to weld the rails in place? [and how many?] I tryed 1\8 on some scrap, all I got was filled holes, no penatration. I would also like info on heat treating.What's best, how to etc... Thank you for any help you can offer. poppop :dunno:

I don't weld build.

Maybe someone who does will chime in here.

[73cj5]

i am all about making my own parts too, but for the $$ hoplo's trunion are the best. i have used 2 and for the price,fit, and quality, i think it is well worth it.

you can always sell your rear trunion and put the $$ from that towards hoplo's.

he is a great guy to deal with also:)

[R.Neumann]

I just built my trunnion out of my standard romy rear and a piece of 1 1/4 x 1/4 flat bar. Cut out a notch on the flat bat for the tang to ride through and weld it up with the tang still intact. Then go to town with the angle grinder and there ya go.

I have the pistol together and painted but I am gonna take it to the range tomorrow and check for firing function before I do slamfires front sight mojo modification to it.

Ciao and I will post pics when I am satisfied with it

[SLAMFIRE51]

Sounds like a winner to me. :)

Waiting to see pics.

[poppop]

Anybody out there that bends their own and welds in the rails?

[southern pride]

Slamfire..you didn't build a pistol today???? :big:

[SLAMFIRE51]

Let me look.....................................

Nope, must have been my day of rest. :big:

I sold the barrel assy. from my last pistol build. I have one being shortened to 8" as I type.
The 13" barrel was just a little long for my liking.

[thealien]

Anybody out there that bends their own and welds in the rails?


I place the rails and center support in place held together with a long screw and nut. I mark where the ends and centers of the rails are on the outside of the reciever with a sharpie marker and a scribe. I then drill two 7/32 inch holes through the reciever after removing the rails. I drill the holes in the center of the rails and near the two ends. I install the front trunion temporarily with small screws. Install the two rails and center support again with the long screw (make sure to remove any burs from drilling) . Make sure the rails are aligned with the front trunion. I use a small machinsts ruler and have had no problems. If you weld them in wrong it will be almost impossible to remove/repair. I then just puddle weld through the holes and grind flush. The inside rails turn blue, I am sure I am getting good penetration!! I use high heat and have done 4 recievers this way with no problems!!

Hope this helps.

Sorry to get off topic, just trying to help someone out!

[jpglee1]

Let me look.....................................

Nope, must have been my day of rest. :big:

I sold the barrel assy. from my last pistol build. I have one being shortened to 8" as I type.
The 13" barrel was just a little long for my liking.


Whats a 8" romy kit going for? Assembled w/hanguards and headspaced. Threaded BBL, slant brake. "G" code?

Just outta curiousity... what would you consider a "good" or "Fair" price for something like this...say if you sold it to joe somebody, no good guy deal...


J

[poppop]

:jump: Thanks for the info thealien, I'm ready to weld now! :jump:

[poppop]

Hello again Mr. Slamfire51. I have anouther QUESTION for you. I finished my first pistol build today, well at least enough for a test fire (great balls of fire!), I couldn't get the selector to "safe" position. How much do I need to remove from the tab? Just enough for a tight snap, or lots of room for a smooth transition? Someone said to remove the entire thing, that can't be right, how much do you remove? Thanks, poppop

[R.Neumann]

You remove just enough for the tab to slide over the rear of thr trigger assy. measure where it hits, scribe it and file/grind. Just go slow and keep rechecking.

Using an imi/oow receiver?

[SLAMFIRE51]

Ditto on what R.Neumann said. :big:

[poppop]

:dunno: :dunno: OOW, does that make any difference?

[SLAMFIRE51]

:dunno: :dunno: OOW, does that make any difference?

The selector hole on a OOW is slightly lower than most. This may cause you to have to remove a little more of the selector tab. No big deal.

[poppop]

Thanks for the info, guess I better go to the store and pick me up a six pack or so of "grind and file lube" poppop

[poppop]

:ywoot The selector hole on a OOW is slightly lower than most. This may cause you to have to remove a little more of the selector tab. No big deal.
All done, piece of cake. The AMD selector steel was very soft, took less than 15 minutes. You were right about the hole being off, about 1/8, The dust cover function of the selector leaves a gap. I'm not happy with the look. OOW needs to address this issue. That is approximately how much steel I had to remove from the selector tab, probably would have worked fine if the hole had been placed properly. :upset:

[R.Neumann]

That is what I found on my first build and that is why I wont use another one. It functions fine though

[SLAMFIRE51]

As with other aspects of building, it's a cosmetic thing.