meet my new 1919a4

[hatedbysheeple]

Just finished it tonight,

ORF 80% RSP
OOW parts kit
Karma trigger and sear
Internals milled by Allied Armament in Washington, they did a great job by the way.

Internals parked, outside of gun coated with duracoat

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/illinidiver/DSC00337.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/illinidiver/DSC00336.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/illinidiver/DSC00335.jpg

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/illinidiver/DSC00334.jpg

next build will probably be an AK, wonder if it will be as easy as this was.

[hoplo74]

I think everybody should have one, nothing like a 250 rds belt.
Congrats, when do we get a range report??

[hatedbysheeple]

Hopefully, I will get out to the range Sunday, depending on work, maybe sooner

I am also on the waiting list for an CrankFire system

http://www.crankfiresystems.com/video.htm

[second amendment]

Sweet
what kind of tripod do you have? or do you have an a6 kit?

[hatedbysheeple]

I am starting off with a mg42 AA tripod with an adapter to a 1919. It was cheap and easy to find, plus the mount holds 2 ammo cans, one on each side, one for ammo the other for collecting links.


later when I can get some time off I'll head home to the shop and make a lower more stable platform, the mg42 tripod is nice though because I don't like laying down in the snow to shoot, and winter is a comin.

and I will end up putting an A6 butt stock on it, a bipod and a carry handle, but first I want to get all the bugs out.

At some point I will get another one of these and make a doubles platform with crankfire, so the a6 buttstocks would definitly come in handy then.

In the meantime I also need to make a transfer case for it.

[patm41]

Good lookin 1919.. I just built one myself.. you will find it will take 2-400 rounds thru
it to get every thing loosened up.. and to get it to feed properly.. mine did any way.

Yea your right those 1919's are an easy build.. the machining is the hardest part..
are you going to run links or belts?

one thing nice is no US made parts are required as these are US guns to start with..

[ssom003]

Very nice... :duece: :up:

[hatedbysheeple]

Patm41, I am going to start with links since they are easier to use, the cloth belts are kind of intimdating, and yeah I for breaking in I've got 1000 rnds ready and linked in 200 rnd sections, so we'll see how long it takes to break in.

[patm41]

Cloth belts are not bad if they have been used a couple times.. new belts are a bitch to load cause the loops are tight..
remember you may have to play with the head spacing to get it set.. before you start playing...

[hatedbysheeple]

Yeah I checked out the head spacing tutorial at 1919a4.com, so I will definitly get that set, and I also have a set of go no-go guages that I borrowed from a buddy. I still have to make a trigger return spring but that will take a whole 5 minutes.

I have the rest of the week off, due to bad weather on Lake Michigan so I will test it out hopefully tomorrow.

[patm41]

I made my trigger return spring from a throttle cable off a lawn mower.. the hard inner wire measures .63 it bent just fine,, and the spring action works great..

[MauserMatt]

Yeah I checked out the head spacing tutorial at 1919a4.com, so I will definitly get that set, and I also have a set of go no-go guages that I borrowed from a buddy. I still have to make a trigger return spring but that will take a whole 5 minutes.

I have the rest of the week off, due to bad weather on Lake Michigan so I will test it out hopefully tomorrow.

Just remember that whenever you take the internals out of the gun you should re-set the headspace. It's not a one time deal.

Congrats on the build! I've built 2 now and just love hauling out the tripod and stuff and getting all the "ooohs" and "ahhhs" at the range... :D

[StooperZero]

If your gonna run links I'd suggest making a feed ramp for em.

I think Nosegunner's site on 1919a4 has the directions.

[MauserMatt]

If your gonna run links I'd suggest making a feed ramp for em.

I think Nosegunner's site on 1919a4 has the directions.

And buy one of these:

http://www.guiettemfg.com/catalog.html

Scroll down to Trunnion Feedway Protector. It's worth the $14...

[vit]

Way cool :up:

[mojobob]

Very nice!!

[Mothrog]

:up:

What kind of tooling do you need to put one of those together?

[hatedbysheeple]

If you are going to do everything yourself, you will need
a vertical mill with tooling (I contracted this out to Allied Armament)
a welder to narrow the slot in the lockingframe (Allied Armament also did this)
a press, air hammer, or large hammer, to form the rivets
screw drivers
a cresent wrench
drill press
a set of punches
a grinder
dremil
a good vise
c clamps
a bucking bar for installing rivets (Bought from Tanker at 1919a4.com)
hand files

And then you can either have it parked or painted for a finish

I can't think of anything else

[MauserMatt]

:up:

What kind of tooling do you need to put one of those together?

Basic hand tools, drill or drill press (press is preferred), air compressor, air hammer with attachment for riveting, some big C-clamps, grinder (dremel may work), and a rivet jig. That's all I can remember right now. And i was about to write welder in there too, but someone recently resubmitted the semi-auto designs to the ATF and asked to have the welding part dropped from the assembly process. They just got the approval letter a few weeks ago. (and that only applies to guns that are riveted together)

After you have all the tools you'll need the parts kit (~$400), internals machined (~$120), semi-auto trigger and sear (~$120), rivets (the correct ones are about $40) and semi right sideplate (~$100-$140). I have almost exactly $745 in my first and I put $760 in my 2nd (without tripods).

It was really fun to build and I really wouldn't mind doing another (especially now that they don't have to be welded.. and of course mine were welded :rolleyes: ) I just don't have the space to put another beltfed... Especially with the MG42 project that I'll be starting soon... That one will be tough... :)

Go to Weaponeer.net (http://www.weaponeer.net/forum) and you'll be able to find some great deals on most of the parts and machining through the group buys. That's where I get all my parts and kits...

EDIT: Well ya beat me to it hatedbysheeple! But between the two of us there should be enough info there.... :D

[Mothrog]

If you are going to do everything yourself, you will need
a vertical mill with tooling (I contracted this out to Allied Armament)
a welder to narrow the slot in the lockingframe (Allied Armament also did this)
a press, air hammer, or large hammer, to form the rivets
screw drivers
a cresent wrench
drill press
a set of punches
a grinder
dremil
a good vise
c clamps
a bucking bar for installing rivets (Bought from Tanker at 1919a4.com)
hand files

And then you can either have it parked or painted for a finish

I can't think of anything else
How complicated is the machining involved? I just recently started playing around with machining, so I know the basics but not much else. Would a beginner be able to do it?

[jeepnguns]

I really need to build me one of these.

[hatedbysheeple]

The machining isn't that bad, I just don't have a mill, so it was cheaper for me to send the parts out. The three main internal parts are the barrel extension, bolt, and lockframe, on the new side plate there is an area that is raised .070 inches from the rest of the plate, it is in the middle of the plate, those three pieces all work and slide with eachother so you have to cut a .070 groove in the internals on the right side for the raised section of Right side plate to fit in. That can be done pretty quickly with and endmill, the other maching required is to were the sear goes in the bolt, it has to be widened out, this would probably be the hardest of the milling, but it is easy with the right tooling. Go to www.1919a4.com they have tutorials and a whole bunch of other helpful info.

Mauser Matt for that MG42 build, since the receiver was torch cut, how do you weld it back together, and fill in the sections of metal that were removed by the torch.

[linx310]

Mauser Matt for that MG42 build, since the receiver was torch cut, how do you weld it back together, and fill in the sections of metal that were removed by the torch.

From what I recall welding the MG42 reciever back together is a big NO NO in the eyes of the BATF...

[Elduce]

Very nice!!

[hatedbysheeple]

Took the 1919 out today and put 200rnds through it, I am having trouble with the top cover grabing the linked belt, and feeding it into the gun, I correctly fed the belt only a handfull of times, and then only two or three rounds would feed, but when I manually charged it, It had no problem grabing and advancing the belt.

Suggestion?

And if it is illegal to weld the MG42 receiver back together, how in the world do you do an MG42 build.

[patm41]

is your gun set up for links? or belts,, there are different paws .. if you have a IZZY gun and it has the upside down U on the bolt it should be set up for links..
and are you running Izzy 308 links ??

[likebuddah]

Where did you go to shoot that nice semi? Is Buffalo Rock Range to far north for you? By the way, great looking gun.

[NeverEnoughFirePower]

I AM JEALOUS!!! That is a sweet looking rifle! I hope to get one soon!

[linx310]

is your gun set up for links? or belts,, there are different paws .. if you have a IZZY gun and it has the upside down U on the bolt it should be set up for links..
and are you running Izzy 308 links ??

Really? I didnt think it mattered...mine runs both..

And if it is illegal to weld the MG42 receiver back together, how in the world do you do an MG42 build.

You have a new one made. Just like the 1919a4 RHS...the reason the semis are legal is because the semi RHS is actually thicker on some spots to prevent the orginal FA parts from droping in.

A MG42 reciever would also have to have several mods, such as it must accept a closed bolt instead of a open bolt design for a semi.

[hatedbysheeple]

Yeah the gun is set up for links, its an Izzy, and I am running izzy .308 links

I shoot at my Grandparents farm, they live outside of city limits, and I just borrow the neighbors backhoe, and mound up a 8 to 10 foot burm once every other year or so, behind the burm is a mile of open farmland and then a river. a bonus to this is over the years a nice little pond has begun to form.


Linx I have seen the mg42 parts kits for 600 or 700 dollars, how much does making or buying a new receiver run, I thought you had to weld the receiver back together and then modify it from there, I kind of have an itch for belt feds now.

[linx310]

Linx I have seen the mg42 parts kits for 600 or 700 dollars, how much does making or buying a new receiver run, I thought you had to weld the receiver back together and then modify it from there, I kind of have an itch for belt feds now.

Depends on the conversion...as far as I know welding the reciever back together is still a NO NO...the receiver is the regulated piece. Welding a MG42 receiver back together which can still accept MG42 parts would be like taking a piece of pipe and cutting it the same as a sten reciever. You just made a machine gun.

This is why the ATF requires the recievers to be torch cut...so it makes it hard to weld back together. One company, Interordance I think actually got in trouble for selling several kits with band saw cut recievers.

MG42 conversions are complex becaues you are converting the gun from open to closed bolt...

I am not sure how it is done to make it legal with the ATF becaues I have never built one...

[MauserMatt]

Sorry it took so long to reply...

Right now there is a little more than a handful of guys that have rewelded their receivers into semi-auto configuration. YES the ATF frowns on rewelding a full-auto receiver. BUT as long as you do the semi mods before the welding then at no point is it a full auto receiver. It is MUCH cheaper to reweld your receiver than to start from a BRP semi. Is it easier? Depends on your skill level with a TIG welder.

The semi mods I'm talking about is there has to be a bolt stop to prevent a full auto bolt from dropping into the receiver. (Obviously you then have to have your bolt machined and an extension welded on to make it a closed bolt semi.) and then you have to make the attachment point for the grip stick different so the full auto one wont fit.

Some of the other modifications required is have your grip stick machined for AR15 FCG parts. The trigger, hammer and disconnector to be exact. Right now there is ongoing discussion of using a semi FAL FCG, but that's in the planning stages. (reason being the AR conversion either doesn't have the kick in the hammer to fire primers or it's too strong and blows holes in the primers)

Go here: MG42.us (http://www.mg42.us) for a forum dedicated to the conversion of them. Also check out HERE (http://www.salt6.com/reciever.htm) if you just want to check out what some of the mods look like in pictures. (also check out the link at the top of the page for the other modifications to the bolt and grip stick)

If you're sitting on the fence about getting an MG42, better get off it quick. These things are almost gone, and will definitely be gone after the first of next year... If you want a really good parts kit with a reweldable receiver check with Dan at Angola Armory (http://www.angolaarmory.com) he has the best kits around. (or at least he did, I think he's out right now, but should be getting more in soon. at least before 1/1/06. Also check out his 1919 parts, he's a good guy to deal with)

Hope this is helpful... :D

[linx310]

Ok so they mod the reciever before welding it together?

Thats how they must stay legal...

[hatedbysheeple]

SHot my 1919 some more today, put another 200 rounds through it, it is starting to loosen up and feed the belt more often, I got 4 and 5 rounds through a couple of times before I had to recharge it, I am going to order 2000 more rounds, and hopefully another 200 - 400 rounds should see it working properly, the more I look at it I think the bolt is still a little tight in the receiver, so it is not sliding back all the way, which means the little grabber thing isn't coming out enough to get a good grip on the next round.

[MauserMatt]

Ok so they mod the reciever before welding it together?

Thats how they must stay legal...

Yup, only way to do it.

[patm41]

SHot my 1919 some more today, put another 200 rounds through it, it is starting to loosen up and feed the belt more often, I got 4 and 5 rounds through a couple of times before I had to recharge it, I am going to order 2000 more rounds, and hopefully another 200 - 400 rounds should see it working properly, the more I look at it I think the bolt is still a little tight in the receiver, so it is not sliding back all the way, which means the little grabber thing isn't coming out enough to get a good grip on the next round.

If your bolt is not comming all the way foward you may have a headspace issue, give the barrel another click.. if your bolt is tight..and not closing
all the way.. smear some valve lapping compound on the side of the bolt
where it contacts the rsp.. work the bolt by hand a few hunderd times and it should loosen up.. i added a extra .005 clearance on my internals to keep any thing from binding...

[hatedbysheeple]

The head spacing is fine, it has no problem coming all the way forward, it is just on sliding back I see the problem, I will start working the bolt some tonight while I watch TV, I made a new charging handle, on the lathe yesterday so it is a little easier to grab.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a395/illinidiver/DSC00338.jpg

[okay47]

What color Duracoat did you use (number/name)?

Did you use a clear top coat to adjust the sheen?

Thanks. Your 1919 looks great.

[hatedbysheeple]

I used the color number 6-parkerized, I didn't use a duracoat clear coat, I had some matte clear spray paint and was going to see how it came out, but I ended up not using it. If you are planning on using duracoat, go find a small model painting kit with a compressor, I got mine at walmart in the model section,f rom testor, it cost about $60, it will definitly save you money in the long run as the cans of proppelant are expensive and totally suck.

[okay47]

In your photos, the finish appears to have a subtle green tint.

I'm looking to match the old 1919 greenish parkerizing (old oil patina). Thinking maybe I'll mix Duracoat 6-Parker with a little 22-UziGreen and 14-TigerStripeBrown...

In any event, that's a nice clean Browning you have there. Thanks