How do you clean up after shooting corrosive ammo

[bars full auto]

I don't think I'll shoot any of this shit again. I shot about 40 rounds through my M39 sprayed the barrel down with windex and headed home. When I got home there was surface rust in my receiver and in the mag wells. WTF how did these things make it through combat? It took 3 hours to clean 2 guns. I used amonia, hopps and synthetic oil to wipe everything off when I was done. I had to disassemble the entire gun and clean everything. The barrel was a real bitch it took forever to clean all os the shit out of it. Am I doing something wrong????? I am thinking of giving up on surplus ammo all together :mad::mad:
:mad:

[whos2kno]

don't give up.. I use brake clean when I go shooting and spray the hell out of everything . when I get home I clean like normal.I have not had a problem yet.my2c worth

whos2kno

[TheBigCA2x]

Read the sticky above about so much cosmoline. Scheutzenman offers excellent advice on cleaning after shooting corrosive ammo. 3 hours is time prohibative!!!

Glad I haven't shot any of the nasty shit yet.

[number_6]

I have to admit that I would rather shoot corrosive ammo than Wolf, because Wolf somehow has managed to locate powder that burns with more residue than IMR4895! I have yet to experience what you have. What were you shooting? The only thing that's that bad would be the old LVE green box ammo.

Be seeing you.

[Schuetzenman]

:confused: I must say I'm surprised. Did you have any ruptured primers? Surface rust shouldn't show up for 12 hours more or less.

Did you have any oil on the surfaces you said rusted, I don't mean a lot but just a thin film? On using Windex, remeber it is water based. When you cleaned did you spray the windex into the barrel or did you wet down patches then run them through on a rod? I'm thinking the overspray from the Windex on bone dry and degreased steel is the cuplrit.

:idea: If so always keep a thin film of oil on the steel and don't squirt the Windex into the barrel direct.

[sfc ret]

http://www.empirearms.com/clean.htm

[bars full auto]

Is this what you are calling a ruptured primer?
http://wsphotofews.excite.com/022/70/HJ/WZ/Vq38024.jpg
This is the only one that looks like this. What causes this to happen?

[Schuetzenman]

Well it's a bit fuzzy Bars but if there is a hole through the metal in the primer then yes that's a ruptured primer. This allows the gasses to blow the corrosive priming salts back into the bolt receiver and magazien area.

What causes this is dependenant on a couple of things. Primers as they get old can get brittle. Firing pin protrusion could be a bit long. Very hot loads sometimes will pop the primer on the firing pin or blow gasses out around the primer in the pocket.

If you shoot different makes of 54r ammo and you continue to get ruptured primers with holes in them I'd suggest modifying the firing pin slightly or getting a new firing pin. You might also want to check the alignment and length of the firing pin in your bolt.

Mosin firing pins can be varied in length by how deep you screw them in. There is a slot like a screw driver slot, but it's really too shallow most times to use a dirver on it. Anyway this line must line up with the two lines on the cocking piece of the bolt and at the same time the end of the firing pin should be about flush witht the surface of the cocking piece. I have seen them reassembled incorrectly. Usually it's too deep and the firing pin doesn't stick out enough to set the rounds off. It could be possible with all the variation in parts that one could be off by half a rotation and put too much pin out through the face of the bolt. Check it out! ;)

[number_6]

Tapco (http://www.tapco.com) has the Mosin bolt tool. You want one, since it allows you to check firing pin protrusion. It is sort of a combination GO/NO-GO for MN firing pins. They're cheap, so you may want to get the cleaning kit that has it in it, which also includes the neat oiler bottle.

Be seeing you.

[bars full auto]

OK I think the firing pin may of been out a little to far. I checked it with the guage and backed it up one turn. Thanks for the help. BTW why did only one primer rupture? I shot about 40 rounds.

[number_6]

Originally posted by bars full auto
OK I think the firing pin may of been out a little to far. I checked it with the guage and backed it up one turn. Thanks for the help. BTW why did only one primer rupture? I shot about 40 rounds.

Mayhaps you were just lucky. Rifle primers are "stiffer" than other types and can take quite a bashing without bursting. I've seen an M-44 with a pin that hit the top of the no-no notch still fire OK. It is just that the chances of rupturing a primer are greater.

Be seeing you.

[Kalashnikov Krazy]

no-no notch?

[number_6]

Originally posted by CookieCrisp
no-no notch?

The following info is lifted from www.russian-mosin-nagant.com.
Some bolt tools are not marked, but it should still be obvious. The no-no notch is the "95" or second notch.



Be certain to check the firing pin protrusion using the screwdriver / protrusion tool found in a standard Mosin Nagant Cleaning kit. If you do not have this tool, the cleaning kit is well worth the money and can be obtained from most of the better known Internet firearms vendors. Failure to check firing pin protrusion can result in insufficient protrusion and the awful "click........". Excessive firing pin protrusion can result in pierced primers and a sudden release of high pressure gas into the receiver. Both situations are extremely dangerous and can cause severe injury or death to you and bystanders.

A future article will explore the details of checking firing pin protrusion; however, a brief summary is necessary. First, verify that the bolt is in its "fired" position and that the firing pin is flush with the cocking piece (see step 2, above). The index marks must be aligned.

Second, as shown below, the firing pin must (at least) touch the top of the milled out area below the number "75" on the protrusion gauge. If it does not, firing pin protrusion is insufficient. Be certain that there is no gap between the bolt head and bolt body (hold them together) when performing this test.

Finally, the firing pin must *not* touch the top of the milled out area under the number "95". If it does, firing pin protrusion is excessive.

Although it is possible to adjust firing protrusion in the field, a matched bolt should not have this problem, assuming the firing pin and the cocking piece are flush and the index marks are aligned. A bolt failing the protrusion test under these circumstances is suspect and must be checked by a qualified gunsmith.

Bottom line: Be safe and use common sense!

[Kalashnikov Krazy]

Number6, Thanks! I dont have a mosin yet, was just curious about an unfamiliar term. But thanks again, you scratch my back, I scratch yours. Hope you like your MKII! :)

[number_6]

Originally posted by CookieCrisp
Number6, Thanks! I dont have a mosin yet, was just curious about an unfamiliar term. But thanks again, you scratch my back, I scratch yours. Hope you like your MKII! :)

Hey, it never hurts to help! (Of course, usually Eek the Cat would be hit on the head by something painful after he said that, but it is still my philosophy.)

Be seeing you.

[Kalashnikov Krazy]

Eek the cat?!?!? Is that show still on? How old are you, Number6?

[number_6]

Originally posted by CookieCrisp
Eek the cat?!?!? Is that show still on? How old are you, Number6?

I haven't seen it in years. And, despite the fact that a purple cartoon cat is one of my idols, I am 35 years of age. Sometimes our cartoon friends are the greatest of philosophers. A good example is one of the ruminations of the great Foghorn Leghorn: "Some days it just don't pay to get outta bed...". Truer words have not been spoken! So, take some time and listen to our animated friends -- you might learn something.

Be seeing you.