Ekie
09-27-2000, 10:18 PM
This is a post that was in response to a question that appeared in the Romanian section of AK-47.net
The SAR 3 is one of my favorites. I do not consider the rifle to be any more then a cheap parts kit though. My experience has been that only about 20% of them come in a satisfactory shooting condition. The big bug a boo is the hammer bolt relationship. I am shooting photos on 35mm and hope to have them developed on CD and on a picture server by the end of the month. Then I will do a large comprehensive thread on "how to get the most out of your SAR 3." These types of questions frequently come up. I am also putting together a thread that will detail design characteristics of the 223 Kalashnikov. If you guys have any digital photos that would help me in my endeavor feel free to e-mail me telling me what you have.
Here is the thing you need to check on your SAR 3. The bolt on a SAR 3 is shorter in OAL then any other Kalashnikov. Century is using the same AKM style hammers in the SAR 1, 2, and 3. On the 2, and 3 an extra angle needs to be ground on the hammer so that the AK-74 style bolt carrier can have a proper surface to slide against as the carrier moves forward after firing a round. This is all that is needed to get an AKM hammer to work in a SAR 2. It is a little more complicated in the SAR 3. Because the bolt is shorter on the SAR 3 the hammer is required to rotate farther. Sense the hammer is rotation in a circular motion on the axis of the hammer pin, the hammer face will be at an odd angle once it is in contact with the bolt/firing pin. Most SAR 3 rifles have the simple extra angle SAR 2 cut in them. This angle cut has a sharp corner on it that strikes the bolt/firing pin. This sharp angle has a very small contact area. On some rifles the contact area does not even touch the firing pin. This makes for a safe rifle, because it will not shoot a single round. This is why you hear of SAR 3 rifles that malfunction. If this type off hammer will make contact it will damage the bolt and firing pin over time due to the force applied to this small area. I have seen a few SAR 3 rifles that have a much more radical modification. The best example is Tantal's. He posted a thread about a month back that contains a photo of various AK hammers including a workable SAR 3 hammer. You need to check and see if you have this type. It has a large flat ground in its face that both allows the carrier to push it back and strikes the bolt/firing pin flat.
There is another problem that is not as serious in a semi-auto firearm. The hammer safety extension on the back of the carrier that prevents out of battery discharge is to long. With the hammer down on a SAR 1 or a SAR 2 compare it to the SAR 3. You will note that the 1 and 2 have a lot of room between the hammer and the safety extension. The SAR 3 does not have enough room here. This can also lead to malfunction. It is a easy fix though. You just file it shorter. Take care that the hammer will not contact the bolt before it is locked.
On my personal SAR 3 project I am going to replace the bolt with a proper Bulgarian AK-74 bolt. This will remove the strange odd ball hammer over rotation feature of the SAR 3. I already have a proper Saiga carrier that will mate nicely with it.
In defense of Century Arms we must give them credit for being the first (and last?) out fit to bring a 223 caliber AK-74 into the States, and at a fair price.
I did make an attempt to file down a SAR 3 hammer until it would hit the bolt/firing pin flat. I did get the hammer to hit the bolt square. I removed too much metal so that the carrier wold not push the hammer into the disconnector.
I am sure that the hammer can be modified to work, I just have not been successful. Like I said I will replace the bolt so this will not be an issue in my rifle. I do have another SAR 3 that has the SAR 2 hammer in it and I intend on fixing it by filing on the hammer. Once I have this successfully completed, I will include the modification in my up coming SAR 3 thread.
Short of fixing your hammer I would not continue to fire your SAR 3. The hammer will damage the bolt and firing pin.
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The SAR 3 is one of my favorites. I do not consider the rifle to be any more then a cheap parts kit though. My experience has been that only about 20% of them come in a satisfactory shooting condition. The big bug a boo is the hammer bolt relationship. I am shooting photos on 35mm and hope to have them developed on CD and on a picture server by the end of the month. Then I will do a large comprehensive thread on "how to get the most out of your SAR 3." These types of questions frequently come up. I am also putting together a thread that will detail design characteristics of the 223 Kalashnikov. If you guys have any digital photos that would help me in my endeavor feel free to e-mail me telling me what you have.
Here is the thing you need to check on your SAR 3. The bolt on a SAR 3 is shorter in OAL then any other Kalashnikov. Century is using the same AKM style hammers in the SAR 1, 2, and 3. On the 2, and 3 an extra angle needs to be ground on the hammer so that the AK-74 style bolt carrier can have a proper surface to slide against as the carrier moves forward after firing a round. This is all that is needed to get an AKM hammer to work in a SAR 2. It is a little more complicated in the SAR 3. Because the bolt is shorter on the SAR 3 the hammer is required to rotate farther. Sense the hammer is rotation in a circular motion on the axis of the hammer pin, the hammer face will be at an odd angle once it is in contact with the bolt/firing pin. Most SAR 3 rifles have the simple extra angle SAR 2 cut in them. This angle cut has a sharp corner on it that strikes the bolt/firing pin. This sharp angle has a very small contact area. On some rifles the contact area does not even touch the firing pin. This makes for a safe rifle, because it will not shoot a single round. This is why you hear of SAR 3 rifles that malfunction. If this type off hammer will make contact it will damage the bolt and firing pin over time due to the force applied to this small area. I have seen a few SAR 3 rifles that have a much more radical modification. The best example is Tantal's. He posted a thread about a month back that contains a photo of various AK hammers including a workable SAR 3 hammer. You need to check and see if you have this type. It has a large flat ground in its face that both allows the carrier to push it back and strikes the bolt/firing pin flat.
There is another problem that is not as serious in a semi-auto firearm. The hammer safety extension on the back of the carrier that prevents out of battery discharge is to long. With the hammer down on a SAR 1 or a SAR 2 compare it to the SAR 3. You will note that the 1 and 2 have a lot of room between the hammer and the safety extension. The SAR 3 does not have enough room here. This can also lead to malfunction. It is a easy fix though. You just file it shorter. Take care that the hammer will not contact the bolt before it is locked.
On my personal SAR 3 project I am going to replace the bolt with a proper Bulgarian AK-74 bolt. This will remove the strange odd ball hammer over rotation feature of the SAR 3. I already have a proper Saiga carrier that will mate nicely with it.
In defense of Century Arms we must give them credit for being the first (and last?) out fit to bring a 223 caliber AK-74 into the States, and at a fair price.
I did make an attempt to file down a SAR 3 hammer until it would hit the bolt/firing pin flat. I did get the hammer to hit the bolt square. I removed too much metal so that the carrier wold not push the hammer into the disconnector.
I am sure that the hammer can be modified to work, I just have not been successful. Like I said I will replace the bolt so this will not be an issue in my rifle. I do have another SAR 3 that has the SAR 2 hammer in it and I intend on fixing it by filing on the hammer. Once I have this successfully completed, I will include the modification in my up coming SAR 3 thread.
Short of fixing your hammer I would not continue to fire your SAR 3. The hammer will damage the bolt and firing pin.
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