09-28-2000, 12:13 PM
one more time...by multiple requests. this procedure is to install the
correct/authentic/fully functional romanian ak-74 brake on the sar-2
series rifles. adding this feature will also retain your cleaning
rod...and prevent it from becoming a "second projectile".
call k-var at 702-364-8880.
order: p/n ak-141 romanian ak-74 brake (as designed to utilized high
velocity gas fluid dynamic principals!) at $34.99. p/n ak-167 romanian
ak-74 front sight base assembly at $44.99. p/n ak-205 ak-74 retainer pin
with spring (comp catch pin). also, you will need two .125 dia. x .50"
long hardened dowel pins (available at any local machine shop).
1. use a dremel or die grinder to carefully cut thru the bottom of your
old sight base and pins. do not cut into the bbl. remove your sight post
from the block and throw the block in the trash.
note: you can use a drift (expect to ruin two drifts! heheh) to drive out
the factort .115 dia. pins...but be prepared to curse in at least three
languages, as those pins are really tight. drive out from the LEFT side
of rifle towards the right side.
2. tap or press your new threaded (22mm) sightbase into place and align
vertically.
3. using the two "starter" holes in the s.b. casting, drill two holes
thru using a no. 31 (.120" dia.) drill bit. be very careful and exert not
undue feed force or side pressure. the bbl. steel is hard, and will dull
and break these small drill bits.
4. using an "undersize (press fit) ream, ream the two drill holes for a
tight (.0005 to .001 undersize) press fit with your 1/8" dowel pins.
5. drive your 1/8" pins into place. sight base is now fixed in
place...and the 1/8" pins have secured it by insuring that a little more
meat was removed from the original bbl. pin grooves.
6. assemble the comp catch pin and spring by inserting the pin (small end
towards rifle front) from the s.b. rear...then insert the spring and
compress it while driving in the supplied cross pin keeper.
7. thread on your brake until the comp catch pin fully engages the notch
in the rear of the brake. solder your comp onto the sightbase using the
janet reno approved 1100°f siver solder. solder at the rear of the brake
where the
last thread meets the brake inside dia..
note: you can get fancy here if you have access to a lathe. make an
alignment arbor out of aluminum or brass rod stock to center the brake
holes to the bb. bore. this increases the accuracy of the "fixed"
location brake. turn a slip fit to match the bbl. bore for 4-5" and step
up the stock dia. to slip fit thru the comp. exit hole. after soldering,
pull the arbor out of the muzzle.
note: some guys say you don't legally have to solder this brake on (as no
flash or sound suppresor was ever made for the 22mm thread, as opposed to
the bulgie and rus 23mm thread). when the batf issues a written ruling on
this setup, i'll desolder mine...but until then, be safe and stay legal.
8. touch up your finish (hammer marks, heat discoloration) with cold
black oxide and then oil it up.
remember...you have just added one more "imported" part to your ak. you
need to add one more usa made part to stay in compliance with 922r regs.
e-mail me for a copy of a drawing on how to make your own mag floor plate
or simply buy the k-var usa made plastic stockset.
refermech...i would have mentioned the cut partway and then cold chisel
split the casting (acceptable methodology in my book)...but informer
cringes when i reach for the big chisels!!!! lol!
guys i forgot to mention a necessary step...sorry. please make jant reno
smile and file down the two "ears" of your bayo mount down...and give up
your hopes of joining the gang as a "drive by bayoneter"!
the front sight block can be precisely aligned using the following
method.
on a granite or steel layout table, block the receiver to level the bbl..
check this by indicating rec. parallelism to table and bbl. over and
under dims. once "square" to the world...indicate the centerline height
of the rear sight "notch. record this dimension. rotate the front sight
block (with the adj. post screwed into the block...elevation adj. is not
critical at this point...we are setting "windage" only.); indicate the
front sight post centerine untill you get it inline with the rear sight
noth. this will get you pretty damn close to being parallel (windage
wise) with the bbl. bore. pin in when you are sure it is located where
you want it.
of course, a bore sight laser is the easiest way to go. and a trip to a
gunsmith with a $20 bill in hand may be easier for your application and
resources.
how "close" did i manage to set and pin mine? fired 3 "test shots at 40
yds. to start my adjustments from to sight in...2 shots 1/4" left of
target centerline...one shot 1/2" right of centerline! pretty close!
hope this helps.
be sure to file or mill off the bayonet mount ears!
this post with thanks to "ekie"...who had the foresight to save it to his drive, for those days when ak-47.net would be down!
__________________________________
------------------
correct/authentic/fully functional romanian ak-74 brake on the sar-2
series rifles. adding this feature will also retain your cleaning
rod...and prevent it from becoming a "second projectile".
call k-var at 702-364-8880.
order: p/n ak-141 romanian ak-74 brake (as designed to utilized high
velocity gas fluid dynamic principals!) at $34.99. p/n ak-167 romanian
ak-74 front sight base assembly at $44.99. p/n ak-205 ak-74 retainer pin
with spring (comp catch pin). also, you will need two .125 dia. x .50"
long hardened dowel pins (available at any local machine shop).
1. use a dremel or die grinder to carefully cut thru the bottom of your
old sight base and pins. do not cut into the bbl. remove your sight post
from the block and throw the block in the trash.
note: you can use a drift (expect to ruin two drifts! heheh) to drive out
the factort .115 dia. pins...but be prepared to curse in at least three
languages, as those pins are really tight. drive out from the LEFT side
of rifle towards the right side.
2. tap or press your new threaded (22mm) sightbase into place and align
vertically.
3. using the two "starter" holes in the s.b. casting, drill two holes
thru using a no. 31 (.120" dia.) drill bit. be very careful and exert not
undue feed force or side pressure. the bbl. steel is hard, and will dull
and break these small drill bits.
4. using an "undersize (press fit) ream, ream the two drill holes for a
tight (.0005 to .001 undersize) press fit with your 1/8" dowel pins.
5. drive your 1/8" pins into place. sight base is now fixed in
place...and the 1/8" pins have secured it by insuring that a little more
meat was removed from the original bbl. pin grooves.
6. assemble the comp catch pin and spring by inserting the pin (small end
towards rifle front) from the s.b. rear...then insert the spring and
compress it while driving in the supplied cross pin keeper.
7. thread on your brake until the comp catch pin fully engages the notch
in the rear of the brake. solder your comp onto the sightbase using the
janet reno approved 1100°f siver solder. solder at the rear of the brake
where the
last thread meets the brake inside dia..
note: you can get fancy here if you have access to a lathe. make an
alignment arbor out of aluminum or brass rod stock to center the brake
holes to the bb. bore. this increases the accuracy of the "fixed"
location brake. turn a slip fit to match the bbl. bore for 4-5" and step
up the stock dia. to slip fit thru the comp. exit hole. after soldering,
pull the arbor out of the muzzle.
note: some guys say you don't legally have to solder this brake on (as no
flash or sound suppresor was ever made for the 22mm thread, as opposed to
the bulgie and rus 23mm thread). when the batf issues a written ruling on
this setup, i'll desolder mine...but until then, be safe and stay legal.
8. touch up your finish (hammer marks, heat discoloration) with cold
black oxide and then oil it up.
remember...you have just added one more "imported" part to your ak. you
need to add one more usa made part to stay in compliance with 922r regs.
e-mail me for a copy of a drawing on how to make your own mag floor plate
or simply buy the k-var usa made plastic stockset.
refermech...i would have mentioned the cut partway and then cold chisel
split the casting (acceptable methodology in my book)...but informer
cringes when i reach for the big chisels!!!! lol!
guys i forgot to mention a necessary step...sorry. please make jant reno
smile and file down the two "ears" of your bayo mount down...and give up
your hopes of joining the gang as a "drive by bayoneter"!
the front sight block can be precisely aligned using the following
method.
on a granite or steel layout table, block the receiver to level the bbl..
check this by indicating rec. parallelism to table and bbl. over and
under dims. once "square" to the world...indicate the centerline height
of the rear sight "notch. record this dimension. rotate the front sight
block (with the adj. post screwed into the block...elevation adj. is not
critical at this point...we are setting "windage" only.); indicate the
front sight post centerine untill you get it inline with the rear sight
noth. this will get you pretty damn close to being parallel (windage
wise) with the bbl. bore. pin in when you are sure it is located where
you want it.
of course, a bore sight laser is the easiest way to go. and a trip to a
gunsmith with a $20 bill in hand may be easier for your application and
resources.
how "close" did i manage to set and pin mine? fired 3 "test shots at 40
yds. to start my adjustments from to sight in...2 shots 1/4" left of
target centerline...one shot 1/2" right of centerline! pretty close!
hope this helps.
be sure to file or mill off the bayonet mount ears!
this post with thanks to "ekie"...who had the foresight to save it to his drive, for those days when ak-47.net would be down!
__________________________________
------------------