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View Full Version : Stock Repair on MAS36/51 (UPDATED WITH PICS)


REDSTAR
03-01-2002, 06:51 PM
Well, I put another coat of Poly on my Albanian after sanding the first coat with 000 wool. She looked quite acceptable with just the one coat but I'm looking for a little darker color. It's going to be sweet. I'm keeping this as true to original as possible and I'm happy with the match. I left some assorted bruises and dings for character. SO...can't do anything else with her tonight.

I took apart my WGA MAS36/51. I cleaned the wood really good with a scrubber, hot water and some mean green cleaner.

After it dried out I took the lower and repaired the crack:

The crack went down from the muzzle end on both sides, straight down a good 4 inches on either side pretty much in the center on both sides. I cleaned out the crack with a sharp knife, filled it with Acura Quick gel, clamped it and also tied it down where the crack ended with a shoe string as I only have one clamp. I drilled out two holes on either side about 1mm after the splits ended, inserted two brass stock repair pins coated with Acura Gel, cut them flush and filed flush. Real easy to use those repiar pins. That was my first time. The gel sets quick so be prepared for that if you ever use Acura Quick. Tomorrow I'll sand down the excess gel, it's still clamped right now. I don't think this handguard will crack again, in the same place anyway and I've prevented it from spliting anymore.

The wood is a nice heavy hardwood, reddish in color even under the stain. The butt must weigh a good 4 lbs alone. The butt is stamped with a circle MA and date, 1956. Very faint stamp. The barrel under is stamped with the date 1956 as well.

W2K- These are definately Parkerized with a grey black. It's easy to tell on the unexposed metal.

I think I'll just lightly sand some of the deeper gouges to smooth out a bit and leave the metal be on this one. It will look quite good as is dings and all. I'll put a coat of red cherry stain on it to bring back the vibrant colors. The wood isn't overly grainy like my other MAS but nice all the same. It also has the serial number stamped to match the rifle.

These MAS rifles are works of art IMO. Mirror bore, some TLC and it's going to be a fine looking weapon. $49, can't beat it. The Grenade launcher can be removed on these as well, the whole front band unit slides off.

Pics next week.

cwalker3
03-01-2002, 07:21 PM
Since I've never had to repair a cracked stock, I have a few questions about your repair.

Where do you place the repair pins? At either end of the crack, to stop it from cracking further? Could you just use a dowel of similiar wood instead of pins? Is Brownells your source for your parts?

whos2kno
03-01-2002, 07:38 PM
we need pics
give us some more inf. on the stock repair.where did you get the repair kit?
whos2kno
Ps
I need to find out some more inf. on Parkerize

REDSTAR
03-01-2002, 07:52 PM
It all depends where the crack is. In this case I could only place pins at the end of the splits towards the receiver because the wood is too think at the muzzle end. However, with the Acura Gel alone I think this would be fine. The pins are to prevent it from splitting down any more into virgin territory.

I think dowels would work fine for a buttstock or something beefy but were talking about 1/4 inch only to work with on either side here on this hand guard. I used the 3/32" pin which is the smallest Brownells sells.

You can get a stock repiar kit from Brownells. You get (12) 1/8" pins, (12) 3/32" pins, (1) 1/8" drill bit and (1) 3/32" drill bit for $14.00 WITH AN FFL.

If you don't have an FFL, get this:
the kit is $45.08. :eek: Talk about a high profit item for dealers!!

The pins are brass and are 2.5" long with 2" threaded. They are soft enough to cut with a pair of wire cutters. I actually only used one pin for this repair. I set the first repair 1" deep snipped it, and used the other 1" on the other side. You need a vari speed drill to use them because you want to be very careful and gentle drilling and setting the pins. I tried it with a dremmel first and that sucked. I just used my power drill and it worked like a charm.

You can get extra bags of pins at (12) for $7.99, $23.89 without a license. They only make the two sizes, 1/8 and 3/32.

Used in conjunction with acura glass, acura quick or acura 20 you can effect a truely professional repair in a matter of a half hour or so. I suppose any good epoxy would work just as well. You want to coat the pins with some of the epoxy to set them hard and fast. I would do the same thing with a dowel.

The acura quick I bought comes in a dual syringe setup for easy measurement and mixing. It was 1 oz of epoxy (doesn't sound like alot but a little bit goes a long way) and cost $6.58. It's on the discontinued list though. Acura 20 is about the same thing doesn't harden as quick and it's $5.64 for the same setup. Without FFL its $8.45 and $7.47 respectively.

I'm going to get some good use out of the pins with my cracked stock Mosins from Century, several of those are just buttstock underside repairs and will be alot easier to do than this handguard, and the handguard wasn't very difficult either.

Good luck.

neilwest
03-02-2002, 12:41 AM
1. Pics, Pics, We Want Pics. Tell me you dont have a camera;)

2. We need to get your system updated. Try maybe Windows XP:D

REDSTAR
03-02-2002, 01:21 AM
I hocked my camera to buy weapons :eek:

No, it's not done yet, I need to let the epoxy cure overnight, I'll finish it up tomorrow and take some before after pics.

Well not a complete 'before' pic since I already fixed the crack; but you can still see where it was because I haven't trimmed it yet.

REDSTAR
03-02-2002, 03:55 PM
OK I took some pics of the repair today:

The shoestring indicates the lenght of the split on both sides, this is the complete rifle disassembled. The metal parts are soaking in goo gone (orange citris stuff):
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233737PM0.9876367.jpg

you can see the glue line here, although the crack goes further down the guard, it narowed. I haven't sanded the glued area yet that's why it still shows:
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233738PM0.7236859.jpg

this is the other side
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233741PM0.91834.jpg

here's where I placed the pins, right where the splits ended:
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233940PM0.4444391.jpg

pencil shows how far the splits traveled
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233941PM0.1240307.jpg
other side
http://imagem.webphotos.iwon.com/1000012251/1000012251_32200233943PM0.3011068.jpg

After I sand the repair down and smooth out the stock a bit I'll put a coat of cherry stain on all the wood and it should be good to go. I'm not going to mess with the metal as the park is a good 80% at least.

whos2kno
03-02-2002, 07:11 PM
thanks for the pics.
looks like you did a good job on her.
2 tumbs up
http://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/smilie/thumbs.gifhttp://www.stopstart.fsnet.co.uk/smilie/thumbs.gif
whos2kno

neilwest
03-03-2002, 10:10 AM
1. Ive ordered your #3 for Matilda by the way. Now you'll have another project to keep you busy.:D

REDSTAR
03-03-2002, 10:28 AM
Oh great Thanks neilwest! I'll sleep better at night knowing M will be functional. On her, I'm going to refinish since someone already started that. They put a black laquer finish on it but it's chipped here and there so I'm going to redo that and also probably finish the wood in a satin. The wood currently doesn't look bad, I just want a less gloss to her.