What to do about rust on MAK 90 receiver?

[wooj61]

I finally took possesion of a MAK 90 that I purchased in June. The dealer that I purchased it from told me they found the gun in storage when they were cleaning.
While removing the thumbhole stock, I noticed there was rust on the tang and screw. The grip screw was really hard to remove and when I finally got it off, it was completely rusted. The receiver has rust on the bottom rear where the grip meets the receiver. The rust area is about 3/4 - 1" from the edge of the receiver and in towards the trigger. There is also a small patch of rust on the inside of the receiver, about the size of a nickel.
I took my dremel tool and used a grinding stone to remove the surface rust down to the bare metal. However, there are still pits in the metal. I did not grind down to the bottom of the pits because I was afraid I would make the receiver wall to thin. I put three coats of gun blue paste on this area, but the bare metal is still lighter than the rest of the receiver.
Is there anything else I can do? Or should I leave it as is and just make sure this area always has a nice coating of oil? Otherwise, the rest of the gun is in new condition. You guys are very creative and resourceful so I would very much appreciate your advice on how to proceed with this clean up.
Thanks in advance. wooj61

[Stokesx]

wooj61

This may sound kind of weird at first but bare with me it works well.
I bought A pre-ban MAK in 94 it was in a gun shop sitting in the corner the owner had been using it for spares along the reciever it was rusted as you desribe maybe a little worse
Just rtemove the surface rust pitting in moderation is not realy a problem. I used Kerosene and steel wool to remove the surface rust then wipe down all parts with Mineral spirits. I went to the hardware store and bought a couple of cans of grill paint I painted the parts with the grill paint and put them in the oven at 150 for 3 hours to cure the finish it is very durable and scratch & heat resistant and you should not have any more rust to accumilate after this..

[This message has been edited by Stokes (edited 09-29-1999).]

[wooj61]

Hi Stokes

Thanks for the advice! I do have a few questions. Did you paint the entire receiver, or just the rusted areas? I'm thinking of just painting the rusted areas because they will be covered by the buttstock and pistol grip. The only painted areas that will show will be on the lower left corner of the receiver and the top of the tang. If I just paint the rusted areas, what would be the best way to blend the paint to the blued part?

Thanks again for your help.

[Bryant]

Cover the whole thing, use hopps bluing remover first to help.

[Stokesx]

I covered the whole rifle in this paint do to little rust spots in other areas and to keep the look uniform. I then took the varnish coating off of the wood and painted it with some US surplus flat black no-shine paint. So I have the true "black rifle" now.. you will have to remove all the wood before curing the paint in the oven anyway so you could used the curing time to work on your stocks finish.

[fontking1a]

If you have surface rust on any metal parts, you can purchase a product called Rust-Mort from any Automotive Paint Store. Follow the directions and when you're done, the rust will be dead. Naval Jelly will also work. Next, take some 400 grit wet or dry sandpaper and scuff up the metal so that it is shiny. You can now use a cold bluing solution available from most gun shops and your metal will be protected. Metal on cars is the same as metal on guns. They will both rust when exposed to moisture...if they are unprotected. Priming and painting will also work, but it does add some thickness to the part. If that is not a factor, go ahead and use paint. Hope this helps....

[Skuld]

Stokes,

When you baked the gun, did you remove the trigger and fire control parts from within the gun, or did you just leave them in there?
Thanks

and if you did remove them, how did you do it? Mine all seem to be riveted in.


[This message has been edited by Skuld (edited 11-10-1999).]

[7th Fleet]

The Maadi is parkerized and then painted. Painting the AK will make it rust proof and is a durable, cheap and easy maintain finsh and it looks good. Regards 7th Fleet

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The Price of Freedom is Eternal Vigilance.

[7th Fleet]

The Maadi is parkerized and then painted. Painting the AK will make it rust proof and is a durable, cheap and easy to maintain finsh and it looks good. Regards 7th Fleet

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The Price of Freedom is Eternal Vigilance.

[7th Fleet]

I tried to delete the double post but unlike Frugal Squirrels Board where the one that posted something can delete it, you can't do that on the AK board. Wonder why?

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The Price of Freedom is Eternal Vigilance.

[Stokesx]

Skuld,

I left the parts in 150 degres will do no damage to the spring or the other metal parts .
they get alot hotter than that when firing. do not spray paint these parts you don't want paint to stick in the mechanical action. just on the inside walls and the rails.