Does hot bluing have any advantages over Gun Kote? Or is it outdated?

[was_peacemaker]

Just curious...it seems like these days Gun Kote seems to be the end all be all finish these days. Any reason to have a gun reblued...or is bluing outdated?

[circuits]

The only problem with bluing is that it's microns thick and doesn't harden the treated surface. So, it's not wear or scratch resistant, basically, at all. It's just pretty and offers some rust resistance.

Parkerizing, nitriding or nitro-carburizing are definitely more long-lasting finishes which impart both rust resistance and true durability as a metal finish.

Gun Kote is similar to bluing in that it doesn't really penetrate the metal for shit. But Gun Kote is at least a fairly thick and somewhat-more wear-resistant shell built up on top of the metal, so it's more durable than traditional bluing.

[was_peacemaker]

The only problem with bluing is that it's microns thick and doesn't harden the treated surface. So, it's not wear or scratch resistant, basically, at all. It's just pretty and offers some rust resistance.

Parkerizing, nitriding or nitro-carburizing are definitely more long-lasting finishes which impart both rust resistance and true durability as a metal finish.

Gun Kote is similar to bluing in that it doesn't really penetrate the metal for shit. But Gun Kote is at least a fairly thick and somewhat-more wear-resistant shell built up on top of the metal, so it's more durable than traditional bluing.

So what is the toughest finish?

[circuits]

So what is the toughest finish?

Nitro carburizing (aka Melonite, aka Tenifer)

[mustangpd]

AKA the stuff glock slides are treated with.

[Schuetzenman]

Bluing colors the surface layer of the steel. Old time rust bluing when saturated with oil is a bit like Parkerizing. It's way better than caustic hot blue. Hot blue if not kept oiled will rust quickly.

Gun Kote is a phenolic paint system that is baked on to cure it. It is not very thick and does not create a fit problem on pins and screws / bolt threads when it is baked on the parts. It can withstand over 600 hours of direct salt water spray with no rust through. It is quite durable, no chemical will take it off. Only sand blasters and sand paper can take it off. Unless you scratch through it with some sort of grit your weapon will be impervious to rust. It is easy to touch up if you have an airbrush. The pigment of Gun Kote is in MEK as a carrier. Very toxic fumes, use a carbon cartridge respirator to paint it on, don't breath the fumes.

Your equipment cleans up with acetone, also not good to breath or get on your skin. Wear chemical resistant gloves. You can find them at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. along with Acetone.

Gun Kote is my favorite weapon finish, I have applied it to many firearms. But to do it right you have to have either; a fresh Parkerized weapon that is degreased and de oiled or you must sand blast the weapon to bare metal. Then you must either parkerize it or use Gun Kote's K-Phos product as a primer coat. It enhances the sticking capability of the Gun Kote finish. K-Phos is clear, is sprayed or dipped to apply. You let it dry 15 minutes then you can paint the Gun Kote finish over it.

[was_peacemaker]

Bluing colors the surface layer of the steel. Old time rust bluing when saturated with oil is a bit like Parkerizing. It's way better than caustic hot blue. Hot blue if not kept oiled will rust quickly.

Gun Kote is a phenolic paint system that is baked on to cure it. It is not very thick and does not create a fit problem on pins and screws / bolt threads when it is baked on the parts. It can withstand over 600 hours of direct salt water spray with no rust through. It is quite durable, no chemical will take it off. Only sand blasters and sand paper can take it off. Unless you scratch through it with some sort of grit your weapon will be impervious to rust. It is easy to touch up if you have an airbrush. The pigment of Gun Kote is in MEK as a carrier. Very toxic fumes, use a carbon cartridge respirator to paint it on, don't breath the fumes.

Your equipment cleans up with acetone, also not good to breath or get on your skin. Wear chemical resistant gloves. You can find them at Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. along with Acetone.

Gun Kote is my favorite weapon finish, I have applied it to many firearms. But to do it right you have to have either; a fresh Parkerized weapon that is degreased and de oiled or you must sand blast the weapon to bare metal. Then you must either parkerize it or use Gun Kote's K-Phos product as a primer coat. It enhances the sticking capability of the Gun Kote finish. K-Phos is clear, is sprayed or dipped to apply. You let it dry 15 minutes then you can paint the Gun Kote finish over it.

Well...guess that answers that. Wonder why firearm manufactures still blue their weapons if there are much better options out there. It seems that there is about as much work in gun kote as there is in hot bluing. Wonder if they could set up an industrial "gun kote" application for mass production guns?