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  1. #1
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    Smile A few questions on romanian build

    Hey, I am a new kid on the block here. I am going to build a couple of AK rifles from Romanian parts kits. I have done this before but it's been several years.
    I have a few questions so I'll get right to them...

    1) One kit is from an older rifle, dated 1969. The gun is completely mismatched. Can I anticipate head space problems? Hopefully, I can assemble as usual and no problems.
    I am not worried about mismatched parts, I just want a reliable and functioning rifle.

    2) This older rifle I just spoke of, seems to have a more robust recoil rod. The newer kits I have , the recoil rods look like long u-shaped wires. The older one looks like a rod and tube. I assume this is fine? Would they be interchangeable?

    3) I can't remember, but I think the springs from the old rifle can be used with the new trigger group?

    For what it's worth, I'll be using Nodak NDS-3 receivers, rivet builds, and something like Duracoat for finish on metal. For parts count, I'll be using US made receiver, gas piston, trigger group, pistol grip. Unless someone gives me better options.

    Thanks, Dan (from Lake Oconee, GA)

  2. #2
    Moderator & Team Gunsnet Platinum 07/2011 O.S.O.K.'s Avatar

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    Dan, to the board!

    1) You need to get a headspace guage and check. It may or may not be in-spec.

    2) Yes interchangeable.

    3) Yes, springs from kit will work fine with new fcg (G-2?)

    For parts count remember it's the number of countable imported parts - not the number of us parts... muzzle device, barrel, handguards (1 part), trunion, receiver, bolt carrier, bolt, gas piston, trigger, sear, disconnector, mag body, follower, floorplate, pistol grip, butstock.

    So, given your list, you will be fine on parts count.
    ~Nemo me impune lacessit~




  3. #3
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    Thank you Sir.
    You said G2 fire control group, not sure I know what you mean.
    I was thinking of getting this compliance group:
    http://dpharms.com/products/ak-47_co...26fff9a7ed53e2

    On headspace gauge, I believe it it'll chamber a go gauge, good, if it'll chamber a no go gauge, bad, and field gauge, maybe?
    I would rather not buy the whole set, any advise?

    And....if I use a headspace gauge and it's not good, how can I fix that?

    Dan

  4. #4
    Moderator & Team Gunsnet Platinum 07/2011 O.S.O.K.'s Avatar

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    If you take a look at the compliance group that DPH lists - it has G2 listed - that's a Tapco G2 fcg - good. If the bolt will close on a go guage and not a no-go guage, you are fine. I would suggest simply calling Brownell's tech team - they can answer your question about this - you may be fine with just a field guage. As to how to fix a problem, it would entail either a new trunion or a new bolt - those are the two parts that determine head space.
    ~Nemo me impune lacessit~




  5. #5
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    for compliance parts, its all up to you, but im just gong to mention that i use the muzzle brake instead of the pistol grip. you will never be able to tell the difference between the 2 muzzle brakes, but the replacement pg wil never look quite like the original bakelite one. thats why i do it that way. i like to keep them looking as original as possible. your list was perfectly fine, ut if you think like i do, thats just another route to mull over.

    now, headspace.

    the bolt must close on a go gauge.

    the bolt shouldnt close on a no-go, but with a loose ak chamber, it might, and is not a total deal breaker.

    the bolt must not close on a field gauge. (this is the largest of the 3)

    one possibility, if head space becomes a problem, would be to press your barrel pin back out, press your barrel in or out as needed to get a proper headspace measurement, and then redrill the barrel pin to a slightly larger diameter pin to take up the misalignment and still press in holding everything tight.

  6. #6
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    another thing, most importantly is HOW you check it.

    the cam in the carrier will easily ram an oversized gauge home and screw shit up if you just let it slam home.

    one method is to pay careful attn to teh position of the bolt and where it locks in relation to the carrier, and move it very lightly under hand pressure only with NO recoil spring.

    i prefer to use JUST the bolt head to check head space, no carrier. slide it in and twist it into position. it will be easy to tell if you are getting drag from the gauge.

    one more thing, ether method you try, you should strip teh bolt first. a sticky firing pin or extractor can easily throw off a reading.

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