unplug the o2 sensors and see if it changes anything. there should be 1 harness that hooks to 1 big plug some where on the fire wall or near the wheel well.it may have 4 02 sensors but they all should hook up on the same plug.
unplug the o2 sensors and see if it changes anything. there should be 1 harness that hooks to 1 big plug some where on the fire wall or near the wheel well.it may have 4 02 sensors but they all should hook up on the same plug.
Dry rotted vacuum tube.
Last edited by abpt1; 06-29-2012 at 02:06 PM. Reason: They can look fine till you bend them if thats the case.
ok assuming it doesnt have any vac leak under the hood.when you hold the brake peddle to the floor can you hear any hissing or what sounds like a vac leak under the dash as in the brake booster is goin bad.had that happen to my mustang.
Damn after posting my last post you had me worried for a minute. I do have shuddering when I'm stopping, but I think it's a warped rotor, If I put it in neutral while stopping I still have the shuddering, so I think it's still a warped rotor. Though it's not 15 seconds while stopping in gear, it's already there most of the time, many times it's stalled while coming to a dead stop. Very confusing. I'm going to try the PCM/EGR route next, then CRC intake cleaning.
Last edited by 1 Patriot-of-many; 06-30-2012 at 06:55 AM.
1pat you got to drag in more stuff, from the pics it looks like you can still walk through your shop and that ain't right
Just trying to help.I have been wrenching for over 30yrs and have seen a lot.Like I said in my other post,This same thing happened to another car I owned and was a trans problem.It would lock up but if it cooled back down it would be OK and as long as I didnt stop
A warped rotor is normally a pulsing feel in the pedal, but *can* be shuddering. My guess on shuddering (with the neutral) would be a tire or bearing issue.
My jeep would stop ok without shudder then after a few seconds in idle (in gear) would start to die, neutral would save it from dying. It was the transmission, but it was low fluid, slow leak. Lucas fixed it pretty much instantly. Just a little bit of not enough slip on torque converter.
But I think you are right and that isn\'t your problem.
BTW you do not have a cool garage, you have a friggen awesome garage and I am very jealous!!!
I didn't mean anything by it, I appreciate the suggestions. Disconnecting the vacuum to the EGR from the PCM didn't work. I sprayed most of a can of intake cleaner at high idle and disconnected the battery, will see in a few days of driving if that fixed it. I did notice when I had the air cleaner/intake to the throttle body off, it DID NOT do it, Idled wonderfully while in gear. So if the intake cleaner didn't fix the problem, next is cleaning/checking the Mass airflow sensor and whatever other sensor is in there( I see there are two on the ducting to the throttle body.
Ok! so far, so good. Went to work yesterday still had it dropping rpms and running rough after 15-30 seconds in drive, BUT the idle speed never dropped below about 550-600 rpm, no stalls. On the way home this morning, it never dropped below 550-600 and didn't have any misfiring running rough going on. Hopefully it wasn't a fluke, I can't determine whether it was the Idle air control replacement(since I never did disconnect the battery) or spraying the CRC intake cleaner then disconnecting the battery so it would "relearn". Thinking the mechanic who said to spray the intake cleaner and have the computer relearn is the winner here.
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