Best DIY gun finish?

[swampdragon]

I agree that there is no need for such harsh chemicals on firearms. I was just pointing it out from purely a durability stand point. My first build was a Polish UF that was painted with Duplicolor high heat ceramic engine paint and it washed right off when I hit it with brake cleaner (testing durability) and then I repainted it with high BBQ paint and the same thing happened. I repainted it with the BBQ paint and because I was gonna de-mill and re-build anyway. That was 4-5 years ago and I haven't done it yet LOL...

Now that I have 25+ builds behind me, the first was painted then the next 12-15 were homebrew hot blued (which is awesome BTW just a PITA to deal with). Then I did a few with Brownell's Alumihide II which is extremely easy and very durable as well. The last several that I've done have been with Duracoat and I doubt that I'll use anything else now. It's so idiot proof when used in an airbrush that you would REALLY have to try to get runs in the finish. You can get (2) complete rifles painted for less than $20 in paint. The stuff is virtually indestructible when it's cured...

Just my .02 from my own experience

Did you try baking any of the finishes you tried?
I know it sounds silly, but it makes a BIG difference.
Air dry curing is OK, but it's just not as good at all.

[swampdragon]

Ive used AII as well on a few firearms, good stuff! Just like already posted it does take a while.
I like using a base coat of it, then doing the camo with krylon.

Yep.
Krylon works good too.
This version was done in "baked" Krylon and lasted for over 5 years.
More expensive does not always mean better.

[Tx Dogblaster]

I considered Alumahyde II for my project. I discarded it as as an option because many who have used it have reported that it gave them a semi-gloss luster when they really wanted a matte finish. The end product still looked good from the photos I saw. Yes, the cure time seems to be rather lengthy.

If one is concerned about the effect of solvents on rattle can rustoleum or krylon, there's always clear coat treatments to protect the paint.

I would think that if the clear was from a spray can, then it would most likely be basically paint without any tint pigments and with a UV stabilizer to prevent yellowing.

Did you try baking any of the finishes you tried?
I know it sounds silly, but it makes a BIG difference.
Air dry curing is OK, but it's just not as good at all.

I actually baked the Duplicolor just for S&G's and it washed off with brake cleaner. Most spray paints cure through an evaporative process where the solvents evaporate and leave behind the solvents. Baking won't really have any effect on them other than flashing off the solvent a little faster. Alumahide, on the other hand, relies on chemical reaction to cure and baking it can actually do more harm than good.

BTW, that milled rifle looks sweet!!!!! I've always wanted a milled AK...

[swampdragon]

I actually baked the Duplicolor just for S&G's and it washed off with brake cleaner. Most spray paints cure through an evaporative process where the solvents evaporate and leave behind the solvents. Baking won't really have any effect on them other than flashing off the solvent a little faster. Alumahide, on the other hand, relies on chemical reaction to cure and baking it can actually do more harm than good.

BTW, that milled rifle looks sweet!!!!! I've always wanted a milled AK...

I'll keep that in mind for next time I try a refinish job.
Good info.



Thanks for the compliment.
The rifle started out as a stock Bulgarian made Arsenal SLR95 several years back before Arsenal set up shop in the States.
I love how great it shoots and have just been tinkering with it ever since.
It must have parts from a dozen different companies on it now.

[Tx Dogblaster]

It looks WAY better now than the original configuration!!! Good job!!!

[tank_monkey]

I love the responses

Now WHY IS THIS IN THE NON-GUN RELATED FORUM?!?!?!

I would have missed this in the Firearms related forum, which is where I would NORMALLY check for cool threads like this, if I had not run across it by accident!

[swampdragon]

I love the responses

Now WHY IS THIS IN THE NON-GUN RELATED FORUM?!?!?!

I would have missed this in the Firearms related forum, which is where I would NORMALLY check for cool threads like this, if I had not run across it by accident!

LOL........

GOOD POINT!
Quite honestly, I didn't even notice this was the wrong forum.
I must be slippin'.

[Schuetzenman]

I'd like to try to refinish an AR upper and lower with either Brownell's Gun Kote or their Teflon-Moly finish. Anybody have experience with these products? Any advice on prep and application would be appreciated, too.

There's only one auto body shop in town, and they may not want to do any parts bead blasting for me. Would the finished product look like total shit if I sanded instead of blasted?

I've used Gunk Kote and Norell's Mollycoat. Gun Kote is my clear preference. Goes on and covers better, more durable when baked at 320°F. Glass bead is not a good surface prep media. 100 to 120 grit Aluminum oxide in a blaster is if you want a smoother but rough enough finish to stick to. 80 grit if you want a more aggressive surface finish, but watch the air pressure as it can almost stipple softer metals. Not familiar with the Brownell's version of Gun kote I presume it is from KG Industries OME packaged for Brownell's. Gun Kote sticks best to a fresh parkerized finish but aluminum can't be parked. OTOH it can be K-Phosed as I've done it and the Gun Kote stock perfectly after baking. K-Phos is a clear liquid that you spray on the fresly blasted surface, (that has been rinsed off to clear the blast dust). BTW I use acetone for this just in case oil seeps out of a crevice or a finger prints are left on the parts after pulling them out of the blast cabinet. I was doing a lot of Gun Koting when I had my FFL. I used organic vapoer filter masks, the type with cartridge filters and solvent proof rubber gloves to keep it off my skin.

You apply the GK to a warmed surface. They tell you to preheat it to about 120 degrees. I eventually learned I could heat the metal with a propane hand torch easier. The MEK carrier in the Gun Kote is very toxic and you really should use the cartridge mask or do it out doors maybe to prevent inhaling that carap. I'd use at least a dust mask to block the particulate if doing it out doors. The MEK flashes off quickly when the GK is applied and soon a very warm to hot part becomes cold. Reheat is often necessary. Often 2 coats are necessary as you will often find an area that didn't get painted as well as you thought it was. Good lighting is important in combating that problem.

[Uncle Scary]

I love the responses

Now WHY IS THIS IN THE NON-GUN RELATED FORUM?!?!?!

I would have missed this in the Firearms related forum, which is where I would NORMALLY check for cool threads like this, if I had not run across it by accident!

Yeah, I didn't realize that I was in GD when I created this thread. I forked up.

[swampdragon]

Yeah, I didn't realize that I was in GD when I created this thread. I forked up.

I did the same thing myself posting a For Sale ad in GW instead of the classifieds.
Shit happens.

[Uncle Scary]

Your Rustoleum finished AK looks good. I approve, and so does your cat.