I would think that if the clear was from a spray can, then it would most likely be basically paint without any tint pigments and with a UV stabilizer to prevent yellowing.
I actually baked the Duplicolor just for S&G's and it washed off with brake cleaner. Most spray paints cure through an evaporative process where the solvents evaporate and leave behind the solvents. Baking won't really have any effect on them other than flashing off the solvent a little faster. Alumahide, on the other hand, relies on chemical reaction to cure and baking it can actually do more harm than good.
BTW, that milled rifle looks sweet!!!!! I've always wanted a milled AK...
I'll keep that in mind for next time I try a refinish job.
Good info.
Thanks for the compliment.
The rifle started out as a stock Bulgarian made Arsenal SLR95 several years back before Arsenal set up shop in the States.
I love how great it shoots and have just been tinkering with it ever since.
It must have parts from a dozen different companies on it now.
It looks WAY better now than the original configuration!!! Good job!!!
I love the responses
Now WHY IS THIS IN THE NON-GUN RELATED FORUM?!?!?!
I would have missed this in the Firearms related forum, which is where I would NORMALLY check for cool threads like this, if I had not run across it by accident!
I've used Gunk Kote and Norell's Mollycoat. Gun Kote is my clear preference. Goes on and covers better, more durable when baked at 320°F. Glass bead is not a good surface prep media. 100 to 120 grit Aluminum oxide in a blaster is if you want a smoother but rough enough finish to stick to. 80 grit if you want a more aggressive surface finish, but watch the air pressure as it can almost stipple softer metals. Not familiar with the Brownell's version of Gun kote I presume it is from KG Industries OME packaged for Brownell's. Gun Kote sticks best to a fresh parkerized finish but aluminum can't be parked. OTOH it can be K-Phosed as I've done it and the Gun Kote stock perfectly after baking. K-Phos is a clear liquid that you spray on the fresly blasted surface, (that has been rinsed off to clear the blast dust). BTW I use acetone for this just in case oil seeps out of a crevice or a finger prints are left on the parts after pulling them out of the blast cabinet. I was doing a lot of Gun Koting when I had my FFL. I used organic vapoer filter masks, the type with cartridge filters and solvent proof rubber gloves to keep it off my skin.
You apply the GK to a warmed surface. They tell you to preheat it to about 120 degrees. I eventually learned I could heat the metal with a propane hand torch easier. The MEK carrier in the Gun Kote is very toxic and you really should use the cartridge mask or do it out doors maybe to prevent inhaling that carap. I'd use at least a dust mask to block the particulate if doing it out doors. The MEK flashes off quickly when the GK is applied and soon a very warm to hot part becomes cold. Reheat is often necessary. Often 2 coats are necessary as you will often find an area that didn't get painted as well as you thought it was. Good lighting is important in combating that problem.
Bookmarks