Any one know how to build a FAL?

[abpt1]

So I want to build a kit and wanted to know if anyone here has any pointers ?



Some cool vids ......for the hell of it ...

[Schuetzenman]

I've built over a dozen and still have 2 of my own. You need; a receiver wrench and a barrel vice, headspace gauges, gauge pins to find the locking shoulder size in order to set head space and a Dremel tool with cut off discs, the fiber reinforced types. I can probably build one to mechanical function in about 2 hours. Refinishing it and baking the finish more hours.


First two I ever built. Ended up selling the G1 but the Imbel was later converted to folding stock after the assault weapon ban ended in 2004. I nearly forgot, to build a 922r compliant FAL you need to substitute 7 US made parts. The usual composition is a US receiver, (DSA or Coonan) a hammer, trigger and sear, gast piston, charging handle, and lastly either a pistol grip or handguards.

[deth502]

instead of any furniture, i went with mag floorplates for the 7th part. they were only $1ea when i was doing it. just recently finished off my first pack of 20.

[deth502]

oh, and most all of them do, but make sure your receiver comes with the ejector block installed.

[Schuetzenman]

oh, and most all of them do, but make sure your receiver comes with the ejector block installed.

Never seen one that didn't have it pinned in already. I've used Coonan, DSA, (my favorite but the most expensive) and Brazilian imported Imbels. I never went floor plate as I don't want to worry about does this mag have a floor plate or not. With 4 FAL rifles origianlly in my collection I have about 100 mags. A $15 buck pistol grip is cheap by contrast.

[deth502]

ive seen an off brand one pop up from time to time on gunbroker without the block. if your buying from a regular supplier, it shouldnt be a problem.

afa the furniture, ive had some us stuff, and i was totally unimpressed with the quality of it. the only part that didnt look vastly inferior was the pistol grip, but the us one didnt have the cutouts to latch the cleaning kit in. im sure theres better stuff out there, but the stuff ive seen wasnt. coupled with that the fact that i had about 7 mags at hte time, and even now, years later, i only have just over 20, it wasnt that big of a deal to me. but i agree, for $100, id pass on them.

[Blacksmith]

You need; a receiver wrench and a barrel vice, headspace gauges, gauge pins to find the locking shoulder size in order to set head space

I understand the concept of using the headspace gauges to set the headspace. but I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “gauge pins to find the locking shoulder size”. Can a person just set the barrel in to where the headspace is to tight and then take a little of the back of the bolt until it’s right?
where do the pins come in?

[deth502]

I understand the concept of using the headspace gauges to set the headspace. but I’m not sure I understand what you mean by “gauge pins to find the locking shoulder size”. Can a person just set the barrel in to where the headspace is to tight and then take a little of the back of the bolt until it’s right?
where do the pins come in?

the fal works off of a tilting bolt lock up like an sks, and the spot where the back of the bolt tips into, same as an sks, determines headspace. teh barrels only job is to time right to the receiver, lining up the gas ports and what not, the headspace is set by a piece of hardened metal pressed into the receiver in said spot where the bolt tips into to lock. teh depth of the chamber, length of the bolt, ect ect, determine what size teh locking shoulder needs to be. what you will do is put the go gauge in the chamber, then lock the bolt in, then you have a series of "pin gauges" (just round blocks of a known diam, a lot of ppl use drill bit shanks) that you slide in the hole where the locking shoulder goes to determine exactly what size you need to get the propper headspace. make sense?

afa taking a little off the back of the bolt, not recomended. that said, ive dont it before when my locking shoulder was a little too tight. i just stoned a few thou off the bolt and it was perfect.

[Blacksmith]

the fal works off of a tilting bolt lock up like an sks, and the spot where the back of the bolt tips into, same as an sks, determines headspace. teh barrels only job is to time right to the receiver, lining up the gas ports and what not, the headspace is set by a piece of hardened metal pressed into the receiver in said spot where the bolt tips into to lock. teh depth of the chamber, length of the bolt, ect ect, determine what size teh locking shoulder needs to be. what you will do is put the go gauge in the chamber, then lock the bolt in, then you have a series of "pin gauges" (just round blocks of a known diam, a lot of ppl use drill bit shanks) that you slide in the hole where the locking shoulder goes to determine exactly what size you need to get the propper headspace. make sense?

afa taking a little off the back of the bolt, not recomended. that said, ive dont it before when my locking shoulder was a little too tight. i just stoned a few thou off the bolt and it was perfect.

Thanks.
That cleared it up.

[Tx Dogblaster]

Great thread! I've thought about building an FAL for a while just because I like 'em and I'm too cheap to buy a factory rifle.

It's good to see a thread being followed and added to without all the douchebaggery that goes on in GD...

[Schuetzenman]

the fal works off of a tilting bolt lock up like an sks, and the spot where the back of the bolt tips into, same as an sks, determines headspace. the barrels only job is to time right to the receiver, lining up the gas ports and what not, the headspace is set by a piece of hardened metal pressed into the receiver in said spot where the bolt tips into to lock. teh depth of the chamber, length of the bolt, ect ect, determine what size teh locking shoulder needs to be. what you will do is put the go gauge in the chamber, then lock the bolt in, then you have a series of "pin gauges" (just round blocks of a known diam, a lot of ppl use drill bit shanks) that you slide in the hole where the locking shoulder goes to determine exactly what size you need to get the propper headspace. make sense?

afa taking a little off the back of the bolt, not recomended. that said, ive dont it before when my locking shoulder was a little too tight. i just stoned a few thou off the bolt and it was perfect.

Pretty good reply. I'm going to try and take some photos of the gauge pin thing I use. It's about 10 or 12 inches long and is stepped in diameters by about .002". It's made by a guy from Falfiles named Moses for his on line nick. The way you use his device is with the Go gauge in the bolt face one shoves the pin in the locking shoulder hole and at the same time you slide the bolt carrier forward until it locks in. Pull bolt group back to unlock it then shove the stepped pin in further to the next larger diameter, repeat process until the bolt won't lock in and then back up one step if you want a really tight chamber or 2 steps if you want a looser NATO spec. In as much as I shoot surplus I always went for the looser chambering. Not reloading the brass so I don't need to worry about stretching.


First image is a typical pile of FAL kit on the counter top. Notice the screw drivers and the pin punches. Next image is of 4 Locking shoulders and the receiver pivot bolt. The LS is a hard cylinder of metal with two flats ground on it. It has an "L" shape and the foot of the L has a peanut or figure 8 shape to it. That part fits in a recess on the right side of the receiver, a.k.a. the ejector port side of the receiver.

Here's a photo of a receiver hand timed on a barrel in a barrel vice. Last image is of the leveling set-up and shows how the torpedo levels are used to line up the receiver with the front sight / barrel. A platform tool screws into the frong sight post threads of the front sight gas block assembly. You get the barrel dead center up with the level and clamp the vice down on it to hold it then with the wrench on the receiver one pulls the receiver into top dead center having the level sit on the rails of the receiver. If you look at the image of the receiver with the two levels on it, the wrench is clamped aroudn the receiver and the breaker bar handle is installed on it. I don't have any individual photos of the wrench or stepped gauge pin thing at the moment. http://www.gunthings.com/ this link was where I would often get a Locking Shoulder if I didn't have the right size with the kit as well as some compliance parts. DSA would also be a good source of compliance parts. I like their pistol grips best for what's on the market but they don't take an Imbel type cleaning kit. Not a biggie for me.

[abpt1]

WOW great info !

I would take you up on that in a heart beat Schuetzenman, if you were not 800 +/- miles away but the offer is greatly appreciated!

Sorry I have not had a chance to replied just busy and one of our dogs died last night . I dont know where to start I guess wait for the kit and asses what condition its in..
here is a link
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=204971771
what are the easiest 922 parts to find beside the receiver ?