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Thread: Winchester Model 50 - Serious Problem(s)

  1. #1

    Winchester Model 50 - Serious Problem(s)

    I bought a used Winchester Model 50 at a garage sale this summer. I thought I got a great deal on it, considering it is in 92%-94% condition looks wise... a few dimples on the stock that can be fixed in an hour or two, and maybe a good field strip cleaning. I've had it in the closet for 5 months and just took it out for the 1st time yesterday.

    So my first problem was that after loading the tube with 1 shell to start, I attempted to cock it and the shell didn't load in the barrel. I attempted 6 or 7 more times, each time nothing happened... It stayed in the tube.

    So I manually dropped a shell down the barrel and fired. It fired fine, except it failed to eject the spent cartridge. The end of the spent cartridge was crimpted in half so I had to dig the spent cartridge out by hand.

    I thought it might be some kind of temporary problem so I fired several rounds through it, each time manually loading 1 shell at a time in the barrel and digging the spent cartridge out.

    There is obviously a problem with the loading and ejection system, but I can't figure out what it is. Does anyone have any ideas?

    Read more: http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/view...#ixzz1APm3qF8t

  2. #2
    Team GunsNet Gold 07/2012 / Super Moderator Gunreference1's Avatar

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    semiautoaddict, I would suspect a cou[le of things. First, a weak magazine spring. This could explain why your shotgun isn't feeding correctly. Second, look at the extractor and extractor spring. If these are damaged or weak it would explain why shells are popping out on their own. If you need replacement parts you might want to visit Numrich Gun Parts Corporation. Hope this helps!

    Steve

    P.S. - semiautoaddict, welcome to The Guns Network! Hope to see more posts from you.
    After today, it's all historical.

  3. #3
    Guns Network Lifetime Membership 01/2011 old Grump's Avatar

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    Question

    Had a buddy with the same problem and I wasn't any help. I found this for him.

    From Shotgun World:

    Lock bolt back, remove forend and barrel, release bolt while holding handle (don't let it slam shut) and ease it forward while working out the floating chamber (tapered lookin piece out the front of the receiver).

    Knock pins out and remove trigger. Remove pad, in the center of the tube holding the stock on you will see a wire clip locking the aluminum buffer plug, remove the clip and unscrew the plug, careful though it has spring pressure on it.

    Remove the plug and spring-----now, there is a hole on the left side of the receiver, line the pin holding the inertia rod/bolt/bolt handle up with that hole and push the pin thru.

    Look well at this as you remove it so you can put it back as is. Move the inertia rod back into the stock and remove bolt.

    I use a drill, cleaning rod chucked in the drill, a 20 and 12 gauge brush, and assorted sizes of Scotchbrite wrapped around those brushes for the inside of the inertia tube, barrel, chamber, and floating chamber---with a little oil.

    Do the inertia rod tube first, then polish up the rod itself. Barrel/chambers and inside the receiver. Clean the bolt and trigger group. Flush all out with brake cleaner or similar, and I go back with a light coat of Break Free CLP but any good oil will work, on all parts--inside the bolt and trigger.

    The one getcha that you have left except reassembling, it is has to be timed. Oil the tube, and I-rod, put the bolt and handle back in, push the inertia rod back in (make sure the arc is up) and get those pieces lined back up and replace the pin.

    Put it back together except leave the clip out that locks the plug. Screw the plug in about where it was--with the trigger in lock the bolt back.

    Now, you need to screw the plug in til it bottoms out on the back of the rod, then screw back out til the bolt can be moved about 3/16" back from lock. Ease the bolt closed and locked several times rechecking this distance. Once you are certain, turn the plug back out just enough to replace the clip----lined up with locking holes.

    This is a wear item, and it needs to remain about this distance, so from time to time check it to make sure it doesn't need to be reset------this is important!!

    You can also remove the magazine plug and polish/clean and relube it, should be good for a long while if only occasionally shooting.

    Should be ready to go. I probably missed something, doing this all by memory, ask again if something is not clear.

    One other thing----check the length of the spring, I think it should be 18" long, if not, stretch it or get a new one----they aren't expensive.
    Check the carrier pawl on the back end of the carrier arm for free movement. The short leg of the carrier spring should engage the pawl and keep it pushed forward. The bolt overrides the carrier pawl(assumng it's rearward travel is sufficient) and forces the carrier to rise as the the bolt closes. The tail of the carrier lock holds the carrier down which holds bolt back (via the pawl)on the last shot or when you retract the bolt manually with an empty magazine. There is a spring under the carrier lock in the receiver wall that pushes the tail out to block the carrier when the bolt comes back and there is no fresh shell on the carrier. The button on the side of the receiver is the front end of the carrier lock. It forced to the extended position by the spring. The bolt cannot move forward without the carrier cycling up and down on a working gun. You need a copy of the manual: http://www.cornellpubs.com/old-guns/ite ... em_id=1961 It also gives detailed instuctions to correct the "hammer following down problem".


    Roman Catholic, Life Member of American Legion, VFW, Wisconsin Libertarian party, Wi-FORCE, WGO, NRA, JPFO, GOA, SAF and CCRKBA


    "THE STATE THAT SEPARATES ITS SCHOLARS FROM IT WARRIORS WILL HAVE ITS THINKING DONE BY COWARDS AND ITS FIGHTING DONE BY FOOLS"

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  4. #4

    Thanks for the help...

    I've taken it apart without the instruction manual, and 3 hours later got it back together after completely cleaning every thing. There was years of build up on the insides and I seem to have gotten it all.

    But the problem still exists that the bolt carrier does not lock back when trying to cycle a round and it still doesn't automatically feed.

  5. #5

    Unhappy my model 50 has the same problem

    My model 50 will not lock open will not load shell and will not eject ...plastic shell end is folded in half what problem did you find to fix yours.

  6. #6
    Guns Network Lifetime Membership 01/2011 old Grump's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by semiautoaddict View Post
    I've taken it apart without the instruction manual, and 3 hours later got it back together after completely cleaning every thing. There was years of build up on the insides and I seem to have gotten it all.

    But the problem still exists that the bolt carrier does not lock back when trying to cycle a round and it still doesn't automatically feed.
    Did you check this: There is a spring under the carrier lock in the receiver wall that pushes the tail out to block the carrier when the bolt comes back and there is no fresh shell on the carrier.

    Roman Catholic, Life Member of American Legion, VFW, Wisconsin Libertarian party, Wi-FORCE, WGO, NRA, JPFO, GOA, SAF and CCRKBA


    "THE STATE THAT SEPARATES ITS SCHOLARS FROM IT WARRIORS WILL HAVE ITS THINKING DONE BY COWARDS AND ITS FIGHTING DONE BY FOOLS"

    THUCYDIDES.



  7. #7

    winchester model 50

    i partially disassembled the gun did not remove the bolt, however the pawl does seam to have a spring under it as it does pop out i have talked to winchester and they are sending a manual for this gun how far out is the pawl supposed to pop out how far back in the slot is the bolt supposed to go mine goes almost all the way back. the instructions afore mentioned talk about a pad ??? i did not see this ... also the afore mentioned instructions talk about 2 small parts when the bolt comes out how small are they ??? and how hard to get back in place????? i did put in some hoppe's gun oil did not dissassemble the magizine.

  8. #8
    Guns Network Lifetime Membership 01/2011 old Grump's Avatar

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    Hopefully you will get the answer when you get your manual

    Roman Catholic, Life Member of American Legion, VFW, Wisconsin Libertarian party, Wi-FORCE, WGO, NRA, JPFO, GOA, SAF and CCRKBA


    "THE STATE THAT SEPARATES ITS SCHOLARS FROM IT WARRIORS WILL HAVE ITS THINKING DONE BY COWARDS AND ITS FIGHTING DONE BY FOOLS"

    THUCYDIDES.



  9. #9

    model 50 problem

    I have done some research on this problem and have come up with the timming of the gun being out I have ordered an extra power spring for the stock called a closing spring. supposedly after cleaning all the parts and oiling them the spring must be adjusted so as to allow 3/16ths of an inch play in the bolt action. the spring also acts as
    a recoil spring and buffer to keep the bolt from banging against the reciever. it also controls the timming of the release upon firing the shell for the bolt to open.

  10. #10
    Guns Network Lifetime Membership 01/2011 old Grump's Avatar

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    Let us know how that worked out for you.

    Roman Catholic, Life Member of American Legion, VFW, Wisconsin Libertarian party, Wi-FORCE, WGO, NRA, JPFO, GOA, SAF and CCRKBA


    "THE STATE THAT SEPARATES ITS SCHOLARS FROM IT WARRIORS WILL HAVE ITS THINKING DONE BY COWARDS AND ITS FIGHTING DONE BY FOOLS"

    THUCYDIDES.



  11. #11

    model 50 problem

    I have done some research on this problem and have come up with the timming of the gun being out I have ordered an extra power spring for the stock called a closing spring. supposedly after cleaning all the parts and oiling them the spring must be adjusted so as to allow 3/16ths of an inch play in the bolt action. the spring also acts as
    a recoil spring and buffer to keep the bolt from banging against the reciever. it also controls the timming of the release upon firing the shell for the bolt to open. Everthing
    i have been able to find talks about the timming effecting the bolt locking open and the loading of the magizine shells....It is also stated that this is a wear point on the gun and must be done or checked perodically. I will let you all know when i get the spring in and put it in place and set the timming...If this works we can pass the procedure on so everyone will know....wise me luck... happy hunting and may all your shells find their target...

  12. #12
    Moderator & Team Gunsnet Platinum 07/2011 O.S.O.K.'s Avatar

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    Stupid question but are you using the correct load? I mean, 2 3/4" vs 3". 3" shells will not function in an autoloader designed for 2 3/4"...

    Just thought I'd check... please don't take offense as it is not always apparent...
    ~Nemo me impune lacessit~
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  13. #13
    I havent got the spring yet just ordered it last night--------
    Using 2 3/4 inches winchester super x x125 number 5 lead shot one of the boxes my
    father shot for years.....should have worked ..... when i get the spring i'll clean it set it
    and try it will let you know..... thanks!!!!!

  14. #14
    i think your problem is that your closing spring plug located in the stock is screwed in to far back the plug almost all the way out until you can pull the bolt back and it locks then tighten plug down till it is tight then back off 2.5 turns and replace locking clip that should fix your loading and ejecting problems. your bolt simply doesnt have enough reward travel hope this helps

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