WTF? Some of my revolvers don't chamber factory fresh rounds?

[tank_monkey]

I was test loading brass into some cylinders on some revolvers. Taurus and Ruger load everything just fine. S&W and Colt have some sticking issues, but that's usually with reloads. perhaps the cases were bulging, who knows? But Charter Arms, Military Guns like the Victory model or Webley Mk IV or Colt M1917 ... I'm running into the phenomenon where the rounds just wont' go into ONE of the chambers in the CYLINDER. I'm checking with boxes of brand new factory Remington or Winchester ammo (no crappy reloads or surplus).

WTF? Has anyone heard of revolvers suffering some some sort of distortion in their cylinders? Or should I just ream out each chamber in the cylinder?

[Schuetzenman]

Slow down with the reaming talk sparky. Good way to fuck up a revolver for all time. Get yourself a Lewis Lead Remover and use that on the cylinders first. Lead and carbon can build up inside the cylinders near the front and make it difficult to chamber a cartridge. The more rounds through the weapon the more this sort of thing is likely to happen.

http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=2...S_LEAD_REMOVER
Here you go a link to Brownell's and the Lewis tool.

[alismith]

I agree with Scheutzenman. Make sure the cylinder and chamber are super clean. If you're not using reloads, then there's something foreign binding the cases. Those chambers, when the gun was new, would chamber all the rounds made for it. Other than completely rupturing a cylinder, I've never heard of a chamber that couldn't take a round unless there were some kind of build-up on the inside.

If there's that much build-up in the chambers, check, and clean, out barrel too. You could have lead, or copper, deposits built up in there, too.

Good luck.

[MJ1]

Cleaning the other part of shooting.



If your new brass comes in bags it could be dented and deformed just enough to cause problems. It' always good to size new brass.

........................

[Tully]

I would also suggest build up in cylinder. It doesn't take much and some times you can't really see it. Hit the chamber with solvent and a brush and see if it helps. May take some soaking. You'd be surprised how quick it happens. That's why I stopped shooting .38 spl in my 686 because after a few rounds the .357 mags are tough to chamber and eject.

[MJ1]

I would also suggest build up in cylinder. It doesn't take much and some times you can't really see it. Hit the chamber with solvent and a brush and see if it helps. May take some soaking. You'd be surprised how quick it happens. That's why I stopped shooting .38 spl in my 686 because after a few rounds the .357 mags are tough to chamber and eject.

Right on Tully, my daughter has that same problem and when she is shooting two or three hundred rounds of 147g molly double ends in .38 cases a week I have to scrape out the front of the cylinders or she has trouble with the speed loaders and .357 cases.

[Tully]

Yea it's a pain. I've found that loading target loads in 357 cases has worked much better as now I don't use .38 spl cases at all in that gun. Love the double end moly wc's. I shoot the 158g and have to say they shoot better than any bullet I've loaded. Fouling in the barrel is minimal too as long as I dont push them over about 925fps.

[MJ1]

2.4g of Bulleye

[O.S.O.K.]

Tankmonkey, all of these guys are full of it. You should just sell those defective revolvers to me - I'll give you a fair price for a fixer-upper

[Tully]

2.4g of Bulleye

Hmmm... Have to check my log but I know my pet load is around 8.2 grains of blue dot under a 158g hornady lswc. First one I shot went 10 ring at 25 yards and the rest have shot as good as I will let them and I can shoot them all day. Can't say the same for my full magnum loads but they can hit a silhouette at 25 an im pretty confident I wouldn't have to do it more than once.

[MJ1]

2.1g Bullseye and the 158g DE is the masters load around here in .38 cases. 2.5 works for us in the .357 case but we are just sport shooters.