Trigger reset failure & a couple of slam fires.
I have a pre-ban MAK90 -- has standard "US" parts (trigger,furniture, etc ) for 'compliance' (wanted pistol grip). This has been a great rifle -- always working flawlessly.
However, the other day at the range, two things happened that had never happened before:
1) The trigger failed to 'reset' --- After firing a round, it cycled and properly loaded a new round in the chamber, but the trigger was not reset -- I had to manually cycle the action to get the trigger reset. The trigger is a double hook tapco trigger group; not an 'adjustable' trigger.
On a guess, I removed the buffer pad that was installed -- although it didn't interfere with manually cycling, nor had it ever been a problem in the past, but thought I'd pull it off to see -- it seemed to fix the 1st issue, but I can't explain why -- so it could have been coincidence...
and 2) I had two slam fires. I had never had this happen before. pulled the trigger and two rounds fired off (the guy next to me didn't even hear that it fired two rounds it happened so fast)
Which brings us to my questions:
Is the firing pin supposed to be "loose" in the bolt, or should it have some sort of spring keeping the firing pin held back until the hammer sends it flying?
What could cause the two issues? It would seem to me to be "one thing that's wrong" since both issues are new, and happened on the same day.
Is it "normal" to happen once in a while? Neither have happened in the 20+ years I've owned it (bought it new); and in the 10 years it's been "modified" -- but I could believe it's a normal bit, but would like to know that it is. The trigger reset failure is the more distressing issue.
Could it be that the buffer bit is to blame for the trigger issue, or was it more likely to be coincidence?
Could it have been the ammo? All I had with me was some "sellier & bellot"; which I don't recall having shot previously...
And while I"m asking questions -- the gas rod, that is riveted to the slide -- it's a bit loose -- should it be loose or should I have it tightened up?
Thanks for your thoughts & time.
Welcome to the group !!!
The easy one first, the gas piston is supposed to be slightly loose on the bolt carrier. The proper way to install it is to thread it in until snug, then back it off 1/4 to 1/2 turn, then pin in place.
As to slam fire, they occur when you pull the bolt back and release it to chamber a round if the firing pin sticks forward, and can also as you found cause a second round to fire as the bolt slams home after firing one round normally. Check the firing pin. Some Norincos had floating pins, some had spring loaded. Look at the back of the bolt, if the firing pin has a large round head inside the bolt, it is spring loaded and the spring might be broken. If the firing pin is a thin rectangle shape then it is a free floating pin and it is possible that there is dirt or debris causing it to stick.
I would also check the disconnector to make sure it is catching the hammer on rebound because if it doesn't it would cause the hammer to follow the bolt back possibly with enough force to fire a second round. If the bolt is not being captured by the disconnector, and it didn't fire a second round as it followed the bolt back, it explains your failure to reset.
I use a Blackjack buffer in all the AKs I take to the range and also have done performance testing for Blackjack and have never found the buffer causing a trigger reset issue. If you have the thicker plastic like buffer then it is possible it is causing short stroking, but that usually leads to ejection issues and not trigger issues.
Which brings me to the next thing, reinstall the original Norinco fire control group and test fire the rifle with the buffer in place and see if you still have problems. Just don't brag to your local ATF agent that you are trying to find the cause of multiple rounds per trigger pull is why you are violating the parts count stupidity.
Thanks for the feedback -- All appears normal then -- Free floating pin and gas piston...
I gave the weapon a very good cleaning (completely stripped, cleaned, re-assembled) the trigger seemed to be smooth (and has been in place, along with the buffer pad, for years). The firing pin also seemed to move freely.
I'll install the original trigger group and give it a test next week with the left over ammo I have, and take some of the russian ammo I have too. Weekdays are usually free of the "self appointed gun police" I have seen on weekends ("Do you have enough US parts in there?")
Manually cycling the action, I could never get trigger to fail to reset AND a fresh round loaded -- that's what is really odd to me.... if it turns out to be the trigger, is anyone using a US-made, non-tapco trigger group? I wanted to stay away from the 'adjustable trigger' since it seems to go against the AK keep-it-simple principle by adding multiple failure points -- but if my trigger is causing issues, then I need to go with a different one - or find some other US part to swap in...
Thank you for your time & thoughts!
If the parts count scares you, ATF has an obscure ruling that if you have a magazine that has US parts, and keep it with you, using an imported mag is not an issue as the rifle is compliant because you have the US mag with it. Don't ask me to try to explain their definition other than I have a copy of a letter from ATF about US mags and US mag parts in a rifle that by itself (stamped receiver 12 parts) has 8 imported parts. I couldn't figure it out, but it does appear that having the US mag with you shows your intent to follow the law.
Stupid yes, and please don't ask me to explain stupid.
WOW.. I thought it had to be "in the gun" to be counted... That's very odd indeed. All the mags I take to the range are US mags... (No other reason that I like the look of a 20 round magazine) But nice to know if I do take a couple of non-us that it still counts. I think that whole rule about having enough "us made parts" is dumb -- it does nothing in the larger scheme of things, other than make some us-mfgr richer...
(And I agree, that is stupid....)