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Mark Ducati
10-11-2011, 06:03 PM
I decided to get into reloading for my new Desert Eagle 50AE... As my knowledge and confidence gains, I eventually would like to reload 9mm, 45 ACP, and 5.56x45. These 4 calibers are the main ones that I shoot on a regular basis.

So,

I bought an RCBS (green) starter kit, single ker-chunker reloader... got me a Maxwell digital caliper and an RCBS primer tool, Frankford Arsenal case tumbler kit (with sifter basket). The kit came with an RCBS scale, case lube/pad... just waiting on the 50AE dies and the 300gr bullets to come into the shop.

From what I've read, on the DE reloading forum (not much info as the site isn't frequented regularly)... a couple folks recommended polishing/tumbling the brass before you remove the primer, this apparently keeps the tumbling media out of the primer and flash hole.

I've a couple hundred 50AE shells tumbling as we speak... but I measured a few of the cases and compared them to the stats in the SPEER Reloading book. I even measured a few factory Magnum Research Industries brand and Speer brand factor ammo...

The unfired ammo is a little under the COL lengths in the book, and the spent brass(and nickle) cases I have are also slightly under the "maximum" case lengths...

I don't have a brass trimmer yet... I didn't think I needed one just yet with "once fired" brass... so I should be good to go right? I'm thinking that as long as I'm not beyond the maximum COL when I seat the bullets, I should be okay... right?

BTW, I know I'm asking some noob questions... and as soon as the dies come in, one of the guys who works at the local pawn shop (retired, works for fun) is the local "reloading expert"... he's coming over for lunch to get me started with my first batch to reload.

Also, tumbling the brass in the corn or walnut media... the brass is polishing nicely on the outside, but the inside of the case doesn't appear to be polishing much... that's normal, right? I've been polishing for about an hour (with some brash polish added to the initial media) and thought I'd run it another half hour...

Thanks for any insight or encouragement you may offer...

Schuetzenman
10-11-2011, 06:54 PM
Welcome to the wonderful world fo relaoding Mark. I started at 13 on 12 ga. shells. That said, your question about dirty inside the case not polishing, yest that's correct. Polishing only does the outside of the case.

Some handgun cases; 9 mm, 45 acp being two of them, headspace on the case mouth. So Over all case length needs to stay below the maximum or the slide might not go fully into battery and the weapon won't fire. I am not that familiar with .50 AE, just looked it up. It is as I thought a rebated rim so yes this is a round that will headspace off the case mouth. Keeping that case length correct is paramount to having functional ammo.

http://data.hodgdon.com/main_menu.asp Here book mark this Mark as it will give you on line data on loading using many brands of powder and bullet types.

325 GR. SPR AE UCHP Hodgdon, H4227, .500", 1.575", 29.0, 1201, 30.8, 1294
325 GR. SPR AE UCHP, Hodgdon, H110, .500", 1.575", 29.0, 1250, 32.5, 1431

From left to right; bullet weight, powder brand and grade, bullet diameter, COL, minimum powder charge, bullet speed with that starting charge, maximum charge and maximum charge bullet speed. If you need to ask any adivse drop me a PM and I'll send you my phone number if you need it.

Mark Ducati
10-11-2011, 07:30 PM
Thanks Schuetz,

Hey, now that I know you reload too... when I see you next (should be in another month maybe, soon right right?), maybe you could stop by after and check out my set up? This local good 'ol boy (the local reloading expert) is supposed to give me some initial guidance... but I sure wouldn't mind a second opinion from you.

deth502
10-11-2011, 07:40 PM
i always deprime before i tumble.

note, i said deprime, not size.

the primer is traditionally punched out during the resizing step. i have a dedicated depriming die, so i remove them without sizing.

fact is, the tumbling media is going to get into the flash holes when tumbling weather the primer is in or not. after theyre tumbled, when i size them (again, there is a decapping pin in the sizing die) it punches out any media tha might get stuck in there. if you SIZE first, and then tumble the deprimed brass, you will have to go through every case with a pick to check the flash hole.

deth502
10-11-2011, 07:43 PM
also, you didnt mention it came with the kit, but get a powder measure.

your probably gonna need a shellholder too, they usually dont come with the dies.

hopefully, you got the carbide dies.

NAPOTS
10-11-2011, 08:55 PM
Cool another begenning reloader. I am about to order my kit and get started myself.

Does anyone use compressed air after tumbling to get media out of the flash hole? A quick shot into the primer pocket from the rear of the case?

Schuetzenman
10-11-2011, 09:24 PM
Cool another begenning reloader. I am about to order my kit and get started myself.

Does anyone use compressed air after tumbling to get media out of the flash hole? A quick shot into the primer pocket from the rear of the case?

I've done that, but believe it or not sometimes it still doesn't come out. I use a dental pick to poke it out.

Speaking of polishing cases, here's my tip. I only use Walnut huls, it's much faster than corn cob. I use Flitz polish squirted onto the walnut media. If it drys out you can toss in 1 oz of water and turn it on for 15 minutes to distribute and rehydarte the Flitz. Usually 15 minutes will shine up a batch of cases that were freshly fired and sooted. If long term tarnished then you might need to go an hour.

Schuetzenman
10-11-2011, 09:28 PM
Thanks Schuetz,

Hey, now that I know you reload too... when I see you next (should be in another month maybe, soon right right?), maybe you could stop by after and check out my set up? This local good 'ol boy (the local reloading expert) is supposed to give me some initial guidance... but I sure wouldn't mind a second opinion from you.

I'll be in your neck of the woods in early November, on a Wednesday. Had I known you were interested in reloading, I would of exteneded an invite to come down and try out my Dillon 550B. A single stage press is what i learned on, still have it. But soon one out grows the abilities of a single stage press if you shoot much. It takes just over 1 hour to prep and load 60 rounds of ammo on a single stage press. I can do 350+ in that time on the Dillon. Time is money, especially for a fella in your position.

Mark Ducati
10-12-2011, 07:39 AM
Yep, I need a powder measuring device...

I've got a scale, but that's going to get old trying to weigh powder for each load...

I found a tool like this from Dillon:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages/all_images/21353_m.jpg

Its only $29 bucks... but it says "Throws from 50 grains up to approximately 72 grains of extruded powder, or up to approximately 82 grains of ball/spherical powder".

For my 50AE, depending on brand of powder and bullet weight, I'll be using powder anywhere from 22-34grains... this thing is too big, I can't find a smaller measure.

Suggestions?

Mark Ducati
10-12-2011, 07:49 AM
Or do you guys use something like these scoops?

http://www.beartoothbullets.com/images/tech_photos/APix-22-Lee-Powder-Dippers.jpg

Mark Ducati
10-12-2011, 07:55 AM
This one from Lee seems smaller... would this be small enough?

Lee Adjustable Charge Bar
http://i41.tinypic.com/28rd1t2.jpg

Mark Ducati
10-12-2011, 07:57 AM
I was thinking that say I needed 24.6gr of Hogdon H110, weight that out on the scale, then dump it into one of these measuring devices and then close it until the powder is flush with the top... that's how they work, right? This way you pretty much get the same powder each time. I figure using an analog scale, and eyeballing the line, these measuring devices would be like measuring a cup of flour, fill it it, then slide a knife over the top... at least gunpowder doesn't compact like flour does.

NAPOTS
10-12-2011, 07:58 AM
Mark,

hope I'm not hijacking your thread there but I have some questions on powder metering as well.

I was under the impression that the scoops aren't repeatable enough for precision reloading although they would be fine for blasting ammo.

Scheutz, I was planning on getting an accurate digital scale and using the powder measurer (the one that drops the charge when you move a lever) and drop it right onto the scale a couple of grains shy of where I want it and then use the trickler to get the charge right.

My dad always used a balance beam scale and it seemed like a pain in the ass compared to a digital scale.

If you are feeling spendy they do have the automatic dispensers that you can dial in a charge and they will measure it and weigh it for you. They are a few hundred bucks though.

Helen Keller
10-12-2011, 11:11 AM
http://www.westcoastminisplitter.com/BMmeasure.jpg


Here's what I use.. not my setup but very close.

Schuetzenman
10-12-2011, 06:51 PM
Yep, I need a powder measuring device...

I've got a scale, but that's going to get old trying to weigh powder for each load...

I found a tool like this from Dillon:

http://www.dillonprecision.com/uimages/all_images/21353_m.jpg

Its only $29 bucks... but it says "Throws from 50 grains up to approximately 72 grains of extruded powder, or up to approximately 82 grains of ball/spherical powder".

For my 50AE, depending on brand of powder and bullet weight, I'll be using powder anywhere from 22-34grains... this thing is too big, I can't find a smaller measure.

Suggestions?

This is a charge bar for a Dillon powder measure that is designed to work on their presses. You don't have a Dillon press so this is not going to work for you. Redding http://redding-reloading.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=43%3Amodel-3-powder-measure The Redding No. 3 powder measure is what I use the most, it is very accurate and very repeatable because it has a Micrometer spindle. There are multiple powder spindles so that the range of powder it throws can be from small pistol loads up to larger rifle sized loads. You simply remove the one spindle then mount the other. Both have the micrometer adjustment that allows recording of the spindle setting and what it throws for a particular type and lot No. of powder.

I have also used and own a Model 55 Lyman powder measure. They throw consistant once set but they can be a real pain in the ass to get dialed in.

I recomnend book marking this web site. http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/cid=0/mfg=61T/Products/REDDING?mc_id=s2021&srch=1 Sinclair International. http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/cid=0/k=powder+measure/t=P/ksubmit=y/Products/All/search=powder_measure Linky to powder measure page on Sinclair. Browse around and if you have any questions make a post.

Schuetzenman
10-12-2011, 06:56 PM
Mark,

hope I'm not hijacking your thread there but I have some questions on powder metering as well.

I was under the impression that the scoops aren't repeatable enough for precision reloading although they would be fine for blasting ammo.

Scheutz, I was planning on getting an accurate digital scale and using the powder measurer (the one that drops the charge when you move a lever) and drop it right onto the scale a couple of grains shy of where I want it and then use the trickler to get the charge right.

My dad always used a balance beam scale and it seemed like a pain in the ass compared to a digital scale.

If you are feeling spendy they do have the automatic dispensers that you can dial in a charge and they will measure it and weigh it for you. They are a few hundred bucks though.

What you speak of is very typical, drop short and trickle in to nail it perfectly. Balance beams can be quick once you learn how to read it. It doesn't have to settle dead center if you are not dribbling but doing bulk ammo. Just watch the movement of the pointer above and bleow zero. If it's about equal in up and down displacement it should inidicate that it would settle on zero if you waited for it. I used a Lyman balance beam for a long time before I got my digital Lyman scale. I have to check zero with a reference 50 grain weight on it as it does seem to shift. There are better digital scales out there, as you stated they are expensive especially if combined as a scale and measure comobo device like are out there now.

I personally don't own any weapons that I can see a shift of .2 grains in powder in group size. The No. 3 BR measrue I use when not loading on the Dillon does a good enough job I don't dribble anymore.

az_paul
11-14-2011, 11:48 PM
Congrats on joining the brotherhood of reloaders, Mark! You're gonna love it.