Stuck

[nice shot]

So I purchased a YHM Phantom suppressor and I want to mount it to my Romy. No big deal, just need a good gunsmith, remove the barrel, thread it, press it back in. . . cool right?

I cant find one gunsmith who will take on this project (save for the ones with a 9 month back log).

Can anyone direct me to a competent gunsmith who can thread my barrel and reinstall it?

looking for 14mm x 1 LH.

Also, I looked into threaded barrels and just add that to the gun and get rid of the normal unthreaded barrel, yet I cant find one thats not assembled, or even with the gas port pre drilled. Any and all helpis appreciated.

[Richard Simmons]

I'm pretty sure that a lot of guys thread their barrels to install a flashhider or brake without removing the barrel from the receiver by using a die. Do you have to remove the barrel to thread for a suppressor?

[videodon]

You just need the bbl. threaded.
(TAT) (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/113802/fa-enterprises-thread-alignment-tool-30-caliber-to-m14x10-lh-ak-47) and proper die (http://www.midwayusa.com/product/915882/fa-enterprises-die-1-1-2-diameter-14mm-10-left-hand-ak-47?cm_vc=S015ID113802).
You do this without removing the bbl.
Any gunsmith should be able to hook you up.

[nice shot]

As per all the guys on the silencertalk.com, they claim that it wont hold the tollerences close enough to do the can.

It would work great if I was tossing on a break, but the can is $650 + atf tax of $200, so I cant take any chances with a baffle strike or blowing out the end cap.

Are there any gunsmiths on here who can do this? I been looking at youtube and seen a lot of videos of guys taking their barrels out and being able to work on them. . . if its that easy, I could thread it then, I'd go to a machine shop and have it done easily.

[nice shot]

I was told this is only recommended for breaks etc. and not for suppressors.

Have any of yall threaded your barrels for a can? Curious to see if anyone has done the DIY way and had it work.

[nice shot]

Need help from my AK buddies. . . any gunsmiths yall know of who can do this for me?

[nice shot]

Would anyone recommend the wasr series rifle? Or should I go with one that has an american barrel for the silencers sake?

[deth502]

As per all the guys on the silencertalk.com, they claim that it wont hold the tollerences close enough to do the can.

It would work great if I was tossing on a break, but the can is $650 + atf tax of $200, so I cant take any chances with a baffle strike or blowing out the end cap.

Are there any gunsmiths on here who can do this? I been looking at youtube and seen a lot of videos of guys taking their barrels out and being able to work on them. . . if its that easy, I could thread it then, I'd go to a machine shop and have it done easily.

it isint really difficult at all, but you do need a few specialized tools to do it.

afa having a machine shop do it, if you could remove the barrel and bring it to them, they may be willing to do it, but if you bring the entire firearm to them, it wouldnt be legal for them to take it in and work on it, and even f you stayed there with them in the shop, thats still a gray area. some shops wont even work on a removed barrel because of all of the rules surrounding gunsmithing.

afa the tat and die, i think theres a pretty good chance youd get it close enough. turning it concentric to the bore IS the most exact way, and would surely be best, but i dont think the tat&die is that inaccurate. of course, you would be taking that chance into your own hands if you did try it.

[circuits]

You absolutely CAN do the threads with a die, without removing the barrel first, but there are risks to that method.

The reason no smith wants to take on the job without removing the barrel is that the TAT and die method will only ensure that the barrel threads are reasonably parallel to the bore, and can do nothing about concentricity if your barrel's bore happens to be slightly offcenter.

So, IF your bore is concentric to the outer barrel diameter, within the tolerances of your can's freebore, and IF you have a really good, tight-fitting TAT and thread with the TAT and die precisely and carefully, then the threads produced will be suitable for use with your suppressor. Up to you to determine if it's worth the risk that the threads might only end up good enough for a brake or compensator.

And do remove your FSB before threading so you can take the threads right up to it without a special bottoming die.