Lower rail on an old 1911?

[L1A1Rocker]

I've seen that the new 1911's are now equipped with a mini rail on the dust cover for lights, lasers and other do-dads. I was wondering if it is possible to put one of those things on my current Para-Ordance so I can keep up with all the cool kids. Is this possible? If so how?

Thanks folks.

[L1A1Rocker]

i don't guess any of the "cool folks" here have done this.

[Dr. Gonzo GED]

I've seen that the new 1911's are now equipped with a mini rail on the dust cover for lights, lasers and other do-dads. I was wondering if it is possible to put one of those things on my current Para-Ordance so I can keep up with all the cool kids. Is this possible? If so how?

Thanks folks.

First place I would look is to Para themselves. See if you can get the frame you want and just swap the parts out.

[L1A1Rocker]

First place I would look is to Para themselves. See if you can get the frame you want and just swap the parts out.

This is a custom gun that came with oversized rails on both the slide (Caspian) and frame (Para). I'm just wanting to add a lower rail. I'll check out Para though, and see if they have an add on. Thanks.

[L1A1Rocker]

Well, here's something by Caspian
http://media.midwayusa.com/productimages/880x660/primary/471/471546.jpg

Available from Midway for under $60.00.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/471546/caspian-accessory-rail-picatinny-style-1911-government-steel-blue

Have any of ya'll used one of these things?

[Dr. Gonzo GED]

This is a custom gun that came with oversized rails on both the slide (Caspian) and frame (Para). I'm just wanting to add a lower rail. I'll check out Para though, and see if they have an add on. Thanks.

That bolt-on option would have been my next suggestion. That's the "old school" way of putting custom rails on handguns. Probably your best bet since the gun is built to custom specks.

Those bolt ons have got to be worth something. Theyre still a popular choice for adding optics to race guns. There's some pretty slick options these days but the idea definitely goes back beyond the the modern rail fetish:

http://www.imfdb.org/images/9/9d/ED_45.jpg

[FunkyPertwee]

Well, here's something by Caspian

Available from Midway for under $60.00.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/471546/caspian-accessory-rail-picatinny-style-1911-government-steel-blue

Have any of ya'll used one of these things?


I was thinking of something like this before you posted it.

Seems like a good concept to me.

[Schuetzenman]

i don't guess any of the "cool folks" here have done this.

No, no I haven't. I see you've found at least one bolt on pic rail system. Have you looked at Brownell's web site, they carry a lot of handgun customization parts, especially for the 1911's.

http://www.brownells.com/optics-mounting/rings-mounts-amp-bases/handgun-bases/1911-auto-tactical-light-rail-prod27001.aspx

http://www.brownells.com/shooting-accessories/flashlights-accessories/flashlight-mounts/beretta-92-96-1911-auto-light-rail-mount-prod22337.aspx

Found 2 types.

[L1A1Rocker]

Well, after doing some playing on the interwebs I think I found exactly what I want(ed). Of course they are no longer made. Around 07 Dave Dawson got together with surefire and came out with the "light speed" mount. That was quickly copied someone called Yost. The rail is narrower and works by use of an adaptor to mount standard stuff on it. That way the pistol without the light would still fight in normal 1911 holsters.

Here's a picture:
http://www.10-8forums.com/ubbthreads/postimages/27236-6.jpg
Yost on the left, Dave's on the right.

But, neither is being made anymore. Soooo, I'm off to follow Shuetzens links. . . .

[Schuetzenman]

BTW, do you have a milling machine? If so you could simply make your own out of some bar stock and do the 1 slot style like the ones shown in your photo.

[Integratedj]

Surefire makes one that bolted on through the slide stop if you don't want to drill and tap your frame or solder one on.
EGW makes a solder on version I think.

http://www.surefire.com/mr07-mounting-rail.html

[L1A1Rocker]

BTW, do you have a milling machine? If so you could simply make your own out of some bar stock and do the 1 slot style like the ones shown in your photo.

Yes, I've got a very old horizontal milling machine by Atlas. It's VERY limited and I'm not really very good with it. But it IS an idea. Would you believe that the cut that has me the most perplexed is the radius that mates up to the dust cover??? I have no idea how to do that.

However, your idea may be worth pursuing, if for no other reason than
fun of a challenging project:)

[Schuetzenman]

Yes, I've got a very old horizontal milling machine by Atlas. It's VERY limited and I'm not really very good with it. But it IS an idea. Would you believe that the cut that has me the most perplexed is the radius that mates up to the dust cover??? I have no idea how to do that.

However, your idea may be worth pursuing, if for no other reason than
fun of a challenging project:)

A large ball Endmill is how I'd do it. Measure the Rad on the weapon and order a ball endmill that will match it. OR you could match the rad by boring on a lathe a solid hunk of bar stock to create the radius via a hole then saw out a section to then mill into the rail.

[L1A1Rocker]

A large ball Endmill is how I'd do it. Measure the Rad on the weapon and order a ball endmill that will match it. OR you could match the rad by boring on a lathe a solid hunk of bar stock to create the radius via a hole then saw out a section to then mill into the rail.

Hummm, very good ideas there. Thanks.

Just FYI, here's a pic of an Atlas mill. (Not mine but just like it)

http://www.docsmachine.com/img/atlas01-1.jpg

[Schuetzenman]

I've done a lot with vertical knee mills but never used a horizontal. I should imagine that a radiused cutter is available where you could mill the radius for the dust cover fit. Then flip it over to mill the square top and sides. I'd imagine cutters for that horizontal mill would be a lot more expense than for a vertical type mill. Using your lathe probably is the cheapest way to get the rad. Drill a large pilot hole in bar stock, then you can use a boring bare to dress the hole for an exact radius match.

[NewbieAKguy]

I took a 1911 armorer's course earlier in the year and when it came to rails on 1911s, his .02 was that if you want a rail on a 1911 then get one with it already a part of the frame; not an aftermarket bolt/screw on. His reasoning (was a tool & die maker for many years) is that he has yet to see a "bolt on" one strong enough that he'd trust. Much of that stemming from the fact that there's not much thickness in the dustcover for enough threads or whatever to attach to.

If you'd like I can pass along contact info.

[deth502]

http://www.victornet.com/subdepartments/Convex-and-Concave-Cutters/1670.html

[deth502]

13/32"

[Schuetzenman]

I took a 1911 armorer's course earlier in the year and when it came to rails on 1911s, his .02 was that if you want a rail on a 1911 then get one with it already a part of the frame; not an aftermarket bolt/screw on. His reasoning (was a tool & die maker for many years) is that he has yet to see a "bolt on" one strong enough that he'd trust. Much of that stemming from the fact that there's not much thickness in the dustcover for enough threads or whatever to attach to.

If you'd like I can pass along contact info.

I can understand the point about the thin nature of the dust cover metal. Even a 6x48 scope base screw thread won't have many threads to engage with. It might benefit from a sliver soldering to really tack one in place.