Chinese Type 56 SKS (Rust / Identification)

[Crucial]

Hey everyone,

I picked up a Chinese SKS from Classic Firearms yesterday and I've almost got it all cleaned up (cosmoline) that is. I noticed some rust areas (on the barrel / receiver and magwell). You can tell it's pitted as well in those areas and I'm requesting your expertise in helping me determine the year / any identifiable info on this rifle. There is only a 5 digit serial number along with the "F5639" marking underneath the barrel / receiver.



Regarding the rust, should I remove it? Should I keep it oiled / greased in those areas? And most importantly, is it safe to shoot?

Here are some pictures:

"F5639" (under the barrel / receiver)

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/Markings1_zpsbe35585d.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/Markings1_zpsbe35585d.jpg.html)

Sights:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/Sights_zps642360ed.png (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/Sights_zps642360ed.png.html)

Stock:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/Stock1_zps6cce191f.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/Stock1_zps6cce191f.jpg.html)

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/Stock2_zps74634106.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/Stock2_zps74634106.jpg.html)

Rust Areas:

Magwell:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/MagwellRust4_zps94c37614.png (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/MagwellRust4_zps94c37614.png.html)

Barrel / Receiver Left Side:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/BarrelorReceiverRust_zpsfd644925.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/BarrelorReceiverRust_zpsfd644925.jpg.html)


Barrel / Receiver Right Side:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/BarrelorReceiverRust2_zpsc44dc296.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/BarrelorReceiverRust2_zpsc44dc296.jpg.html)

Piston Area:

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/Rustneargasblock_zps43665790.png (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/Rustneargasblock_zps43665790.png.html)

As always, thank you SO much for your input.

[Helen Keller]

Purely cosmetic, Clean it up and oil it .


Unless it's been run over by 10+ tanks an SKS will be safe to shoot.

[Crucial]

Purely cosmetic, Clean it up and oil it .


Unless it's been run over by 10+ tanks an SKS will be safe to shoot.

Much appreciated reply. Any idea on the marking on the bottom of the barrel? Or how I can date this rifle?

[Krupski]

Purely cosmetic, Clean it up and oil it .


Unless it's been run over by 10+ tanks an SKS will be safe to shoot.

Agreed. The pitted areas are unfortunate, but they won't hurt the integrity of the rifle. Probably a lot more than 10 tanks could run over it and not hurt anything! :)

@Crucial: Don't try to sand or grind away the pitted areas. It will only make it look worse. Just use a rough oiled flannel cloth and a lot of elbow grease to remove the rust, and maybe a mini plastic "wire" wheel in a Dremel to de-rust the pitted areas. Don't use ANY metal tools, files, wire brushes, etc... only plastic, nylon or cloth.

Then use some cold blue to cover any bare areas and finally wipe a thin layer of good gun oil over the whole action.

If you know how, take the action completely apart and clean/oil each part, then reassemble.

BTW, how is the barrel bore?

[Krupski]

Much appreciated reply. Any idea on the marking on the bottom of the barrel? Or how I can date this rifle?

Look at the serial number. The first digit denotes the year. A Chinese serial number will have 7 digits (a 1956 will only have 6). Add "1956" to that digit.

For example:

Serial number nnnnnn (only 6 digits, rifle is a 1956) (because "nnnnnn" is equivalent to "0nnnnnn")

Serial number 3nnnnnn (rifle is 1956 + 3 = 1959)

My Chinese SKS: 741xxx (only 6 digits, mine is a 1956).

See?

[Crucial]

Look at the serial number. The first digit denotes the year. A Chinese serial number will have 7 digits (a 1956 will only have 6). Add "1956" to that digit.

For example:

Serial number nnnnnn (only 6 digits, rifle is a 1956) (because "nnnnnn" is equivalent to "0nnnnnn")

Serial number 3nnnnnn (rifle is 1956 + 3 = 1959)

My Chinese SKS: 741xxx (only 6 digits, mine is a 1956).

See?

Awesome, so I looks like mine is a 1956 as it only has 6 digits for the serial and everything matches down to the stock which I found pretty cool as well.


I appreciate your response and knowledge regarding this rifle. Any idea of the strange "F" letter and numbers under the barrel (F5630)? That does not match anywhere close to the serial if that helps?
3100

[Krupski]

Awesome, so I looks like mine is a 1956 as it only has 6 digits for the serial and everything matches down to the stock which I found pretty cool as well.


I appreciate your response and knowledge regarding this rifle. Any idea of the strange "F" letter and numbers under the barrel (F5630)? That does not match anywhere close to the serial if that helps?
3100

My barrel has nothing stamped on the bottom:

(click pic for full size)
http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/medium/sks_under.jpg (http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/sks_under.jpg)

Everything else has either the (same) serial number stamped on it, or the last 4 digits (the bolt carrier, for example).

I dunno what those numbers mean. Maybe a replacement barrel?

[Crucial]

A lot of people that ordered the same rifle as I did got some Russian Sino-Soviet rifles and their serial numbers started with like a H and on F followed by 4 numbers.

I'm wondering if my barrel is a Russian barrel with the rest being Chinese parts?

If this is a miss matched barrel, should I worry about head space? Everything else matches.

[Helen Keller]

Unless you reload, I would never worry about headspace on a SKS rifle.


Even with some of the most shitty condition Yugo/romanians I've had , headspace was the last thing I was concerned with.

[Krupski]

A lot of people that ordered the same rifle as I did got some Russian Sino-Soviet rifles and their serial numbers started with like a H and on F followed by 4 numbers.

I'm wondering if my barrel is a Russian barrel with the rest being Chinese parts?

If this is a miss matched barrel, should I worry about head space? Everything else matches.

Don't worry about headspace.

There is only ONE thing you need to do before you shoot it:

Be sure the firing pin is free in the bolt. Shake the bolt. The firing pin should freely rattle. If it doesn't, soak it in gasoline, kerosene, Hoppes #9, any decent solvent and soak / drain / soak / drain until the inside of the bolt is clean.

A few people have been killed by their "brand new" SKS rifles, packed full of cosmoline. The firing pin, being jammed forward and locked in place by 50+ year old dried out cosmoline, made the rifle act like an open bolt machine gun.

The rifle fired all 10 rounds. The shooter, not expecting this, lost his grip on the rifle and it rotated up and around until the muzzle was pointed at his face. One of the last few rounds blew his head off.

[Krupski]

Unless you reload, I would never worry about headspace on a SKS rifle.


Even with some of the most shitty condition Yugo/romanians I've had , headspace was the last thing I was concerned with.

Yup. They just work. If the rifle stops firing, it's because it's empty.

[Helen Keller]

Cosmo in the Yugo M59 bolts was hard as a rock. Nothing like nearly 1600RPM unexpectedly.

[Crucial]

Yeah, I soaked the bolt over night to loosen as much as I could up.

Took a lot of force to break free the Pin holding the firing pin and ejector. And of course it was caked and it's now been soaking for about 2 hours in Hoppe's 9.

I heard about the slam fire / auto issue and definitely wanted to be safe.

[Crucial]

BTW, how is the barrel bore?

The bore is squeaky clean (will post a photo once I get it all finished).

Is taking apart the action required? I've done some research and it looks like it can be a huge pain in the ass.

[Helen Keller]

other than field stripping.

dont mess with the FCG, unless a parts breaks.

[Crucial]

other than field stripping.

dont mess with the FCG, unless a parts breaks.

Cool, it was packed with cosmoline, I got most of it (what I could reach) out and oiled up.

Which brings me to my next concern / question. My firing Pin appears to either be dented / chipped at the tip, is this normal or should I get it replaced; picture below.

Also, sorry for so many questions, I just want to be safe.

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/photo5_zpsf9303921.png (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/photo5_zpsf9303921.png.html)

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/photo4_zpsc7cbf35a.png (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/photo4_zpsc7cbf35a.png.html)



Also attached is my bore picture I promised.

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/photo3_zps3522c1bb.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/photo3_zps3522c1bb.jpg.html)

http://i775.photobucket.com/albums/yy31/blakedevlin60/SKS/photo2_zps22c12447.jpg (http://s775.photobucket.com/user/blakedevlin60/media/SKS/photo2_zps22c12447.jpg.html)

[Helen Keller]

Firing pin is fine, it's just seen some obvious use/abuse.

[Krupski]

The bore is squeaky clean (will post a photo once I get it all finished).

Is taking apart the action required? I've done some research and it looks like it can be a huge pain in the ass.

Your firing pin is a bit dinged up, but nothing to worry about. Buy a new one if it bothers you.

As far as the action, taking it apart is easy if you know how. If not, you don't really need to take it apart.

Just take the trigger / hammer assembly (the part that pops off from the bottom) and soak the whole thing in a solvent until it's squeaky clean. Then dry it.

Then place a drop or two of good gun oil everywhere one part touches another part. Hold the hammer back and pull the sear forward (you may need someone else to help you here) and put a little grease (moly disulfide if you have any) on the hammer / sear engagement points. Carefully hold the hammer from dropping, pull the trigger and slightly press on the disconnector lever (it takes practice!) and release / recock the hammer a few times to work the moly grease onto the sear surfaces. Be sure you control the hammer with your fingers - don't let it slam down or you might damage the whole assembly.

Be sure you leave the hammer cocked when you're done (else the trigger / hammer assembly won't go back in!)

Put a little moly grease on the top of the hammer (where the bolt slides over it) and put a drop of oil on each bolt carrier rail. Also put a drop or two of oil on the mating surfaces of the bolt and bolt carrier (or better, a thin film of moly grease on the shiny wear points - you'll see those clearly).

Swab out the bore to be sure it's clean (Hoppes #9, a nylon brush and a clean patch, repeat until the black and green shit stops coming out). Then wipe the bore down with a clean, sloppy wet patch soaked in Hoppes #9 or good gun oil.

Use a .38 cal or 9mm bore brush to clean out the gas piston tube, and use a wire wheel to clean the carbon soot off the piston head. The piston should slide freely in the tube. Don't oil that part (or if you do just WIPE is with an oily cloth - don't leave any wet oil) because it will burn the first time you fire the rifle and gum up the piston / tube assembly.

Lastly, the first time you take it out, load only one round and be sure it works, Then load three and make sure it doesn't "take off" (stuck firing pin or misadjusted disconnector).

Once you're happy with it, then load all 10 rounds. Stay away from those aftermarket 20 and 30 round SKS mags... none of them work properly.

[Silentkilla01]

Firing pin is fine, it's just seen some obvious use/abuse.

Your right on that someone abused the shit out of it.

[Krupski]

Here's my Type 56:


(click pic for full size)
http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/medium/chinese_sks.jpg (http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/chinese_sks.jpg)


(1956, no rust) :wootrock:


(edit to add): Paid $125 for it - FTF transaction. No tax, no FFL... just $125.

[Silentkilla01]

I'll give you 50 bucks more then you paid for it right now! You might as well sell it to me since you live in the N.Y krup. They will be banned in your state by next year.

[Silentkilla01]

I'll even go 200 on it

[FunkyPertwee]

Here's my Type 56:


(click pic for full size)
http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/medium/chinese_sks.jpg (http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/chinese_sks.jpg)


(1956, no rust) :wootrock:


(edit to add): Paid $125 for it - FTF transaction. No tax, no FFL... just $125.

Nice.

I got my Romanian SKS (1958) for $175 back in the day. And it came with about 700 rounds of good hollow points.

[Crucial]

Here's my Type 56:


(click pic for full size)
http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/medium/chinese_sks.jpg (http://www.gunsnet.net/photopost/data/500/chinese_sks.jpg)


(1956, no rust) :wootrock:


(edit to add): Paid $125 for it - FTF transaction. No tax, no FFL... just $125.

Very nice rifle. Jealous you have no rust and you paid the little for it :).

In today's market, how much would you consider my rifle to be worth?

[mrkalashnikov]

This stuff is hands down the best product I've ever found for removing surface rust from metal gun parts or bores & it's not as toxic as many other metal cleaners. It will not harm bluing as well: http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

[Silentkilla01]

Very nice rifle. Jealous you have no rust and you paid the little for it :).

In today's market, how much would you consider my rifle to be worth?

3 to 500 bucks.

[FunkyPertwee]

3 to 500 bucks.

Rifles like his are for sale at classic firearms for $269.

http://www.classicfirearms.com/chicomsks

[Silentkilla01]

Rifles like his are for sale at classic firearms for $269.

http://www.classicfirearms.com/chicomsks

Holy crap. I guess I need to start looking on the net more and a lot less on armslist. Check some of the prices out on there. And they are some consistent bastid a too.

[FunkyPertwee]

Fuck armslist and gunbroker.

[Silentkilla01]

For that price I might pick one of them up

[FunkyPertwee]

For that price I might pick one of them up

Do it!

I'm flat broke so I have to feed my addiction vicariously through the gun purchases of others right now.

[Silentkilla01]

Lol my wife would kill me I just got finished paying one of my friends off for the xd 9mm I bought from him. She would my f'er me with it if I did! lol still gonna mention it though.

[FunkyPertwee]

Lol my wife would kill me I just got finished paying one of my friends off for the xd 9mm I bought from him. She would my f'er me with it if I did! lol still gonna mention it though.

Is it a regular service model xd-9?

I got one of those back in 2004 and have never had any unforgivable hangups. Once was when an original mag started to lose its spring pressure, and another when the gun was excessively wet.

I recommend the Mec-gar 18 rounders. Wow, this is a great price I found on these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/125101/mec-gar-optimum-magazine-with-base-pad-springfield-xd-9mm-luger-18-round-steel-anti-friction-black

In fact, I've got my old XD-9 with a TLR-1 and five loaded 18 rounders sitting in my pack next to me right now, as its one of the guns I take with me away from the homestead.

[Krupski]

I'll give you 50 bucks more then you paid for it right now! You might as well sell it to me since you live in the N.Y krup. They will be banned in your state by next year.

I couldn't care less what's "banned". The dickhead governor can come try and take it if he thinks I shouldn't have it. And I'll be glad to give it to him... one round at a time.

[Silentkilla01]

Yes sir it is. That's my shooting partner and everytime we go to shoot he seen me eyeballing it and I can hit better with that piece than I can with my glock and that is saying a lot. So he went out and bought a ruger scout rifle in 308. So to justify a little of the money he spent on that he have me first dibs on the XD.

[Silentkilla01]

I couldn't care less what's "banned". The dickhead governor can come try and take it if he thinks I shouldn't have it. And I'll be glad to give it to him... one round at a time.

I salute you good sir with a big HELL YEAH!!!!

[Krupski]

Very nice rifle. Jealous you have no rust and you paid the little for it :).

In today's market, how much would you consider my rifle to be worth?

What's it worth? No idea whatsoever. It kills bad guys, I guess that makes it priceless.

[Silentkilla01]

Is it a regular service model xd-9?

I got one of those back in 2004 and have never had any unforgivable hangups. Once was when an original mag started to lose its spring pressure, and another when the gun was excessively wet.

I recommend the Mec-gar 18 rounders. Wow, this is a great price I found on these: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/125101/mec-gar-optimum-magazine-with-base-pad-springfield-xd-9mm-luger-18-round-steel-anti-friction-black

In fact, I've got my old XD-9 with a TLR-1 and five loaded 18 rounders sitting in my pack next to me right now, as its one of the guns I take with me away from the homestead.

So you say the mec-gar 18's are nice?? Might have to check a couple out.

[FunkyPertwee]

Yes sir it is. That's my shooting partner and everytime we go to shoot he seen me eyeballing it and I can hit better with that piece than I can with my glock and that is saying a lot. So he went out and bought a ruger scout rifle in 308. So to justify a little of the money he spent on that he have me first dibs on the XD.

Gun addiction is a sick thing.

I loved my XD-9 so much I went and bought a XD-45 Tactical in stainless. I love that gun very much but it remains at home where it performs its nightstand duty. It has a sweet trigger and I've always had good luck tearing up the bullseye.

Now I want a Glock 34 and 41. Not to replace them but in addition to them. WTF is wrong with me?

[Silentkilla01]

3101 here it is with a X-300 weapon light on it.

[Krupski]

This stuff is hands down the best product I've ever found for removing surface rust from metal gun parts or bores & it's not as toxic as many other metal cleaners. It will not harm bluing as well: http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

Since bluing is an oxidation process, I wonder how this stuff can remove rust, but not bluing?

For light surface rust, I feel safer with a rough piece of flannel cloth and oil (plus a lot of elbow grease). For pitting, I would simply kick myself in the ass for letting it happen in the first place. :)

[Silentkilla01]

Gun addiction is a sick thing.

I loved my XD-9 so much I went and bought a XD-45 Tactical in stainless. I love that gun very much but it remains at home where it performs its nightstand duty. It has a sweet trigger and I've always had good luck tearing up the bullseye.

Now I want a Glock 34 and 41. Not to replace them but in addition to them. WTF is wrong with me?

Nothing at all is wrong with you bro. Your just a good ol boy from the south.

[Krupski]

Gun addiction is a sick thing.

I loved my XD-9 so much I went and bought a XD-45 Tactical in stainless. I love that gun very much but it remains at home where it performs its nightstand duty. It has a sweet trigger and I've always had good luck tearing up the bullseye.

Now I want a Glock 34 and 41. Not to replace them but in addition to them. WTF is wrong with me?

Absolutely nothing. :)

[FunkyPertwee]

3101 here it is with a X-300 weapon light on it.

Very nice.

The TLR-1 was more in my price range so I went with that. Works well and produces 300 lumen. I'll probably get the TLR-1 HL next time, its 620 lumens for $125 or so.

[FunkyPertwee]

Nothing at all is wrong with you bro. Your just a good ol boy from the south.


Absolutely nothing. :)

Thanks.

I'm starting to think you guys are a bad influence though. :D

[Silentkilla01]

Thanks.

I'm starting to think you guys are a bad influence though. :D

Lmao!

[was_peacemaker]

Then place a drop or two of good gun oil everywhere one part touches another part. Hold the hammer back and pull the sear forward (you may need someone else to help you here) and put a little grease (moly disulfide if you have any) on the hammer / sear engagement points. Carefully hold the hammer from dropping, pull the trigger and slightly press on the disconnector lever (it takes practice!) and release / recock the hammer a few times to work the moly grease onto the sear surfaces. Be sure you control the hammer with your fingers - don't let it slam down or you might damage the whole assembly.

Be sure you leave the hammer cocked when you're done (else the trigger / hammer assembly won't go back in!)

Put a little moly grease on the top of the hammer (where the bolt slides over it) and put a drop of oil on each bolt carrier rail. Also put a drop or two of oil on the mating surfaces of the bolt and bolt carrier (or better, a thin film of moly grease on the shiny wear points - you'll see those clearly).

Swab out the bore to be sure it's clean (Hoppes #9, a nylon brush and a clean patch, repeat until the black and green shit stops coming out). Then wipe the bore down with a clean, sloppy wet patch soaked in Hoppes #9 or good gun oil.

Use a .38 cal or 9mm bore brush to clean out the gas piston tube, and use a wire wheel to clean the carbon soot off the piston head. The piston should slide freely in the tube. Don't oil that part (or if you do just WIPE is with an oily cloth - don't leave any wet oil) because it will burn the first time you fire the rifle and gum up the piston / tube assembly.

Lastly, the first time you take it out, load only one round and be sure it works, Then load three and make sure it doesn't "take off" (stuck firing pin or misadjusted disconnector).

Once you're happy with it, then load all 10 rounds. Stay away from those aftermarket 20 and 30 round SKS mags... none of them work properly.


Grease on the hammer? Mmmm...maybe I should try that. I will admit I have ran AK's and SKS's dry or with light oil when I was younger. When I got older, I started using more oil on them, but I know some guys who don't like oiling their guns up much. They claim it attracts dirt, and moisture.

[was_peacemaker]

What's it worth? No idea whatsoever. It kills bad guys, I guess that makes it priceless.

About $400-$500 bucks.

[Crucial]

Sweet, with my gift card for Classic Firearms along with their deal I paid $266.27 shipped (I opted for the hand pick and matching serials). I could have gotten it for roughly $222.00 if not, but from what others have received I feel the extra fee was worth it.

And they do not kill you with shipping, it was like $16 to ship, whereas other places charged upwards $20 - $30.

[Crucial]

Your firing pin is a bit dinged up, but nothing to worry about. Buy a new one if it bothers you.

As far as the action, taking it apart is easy if you know how. If not, you don't really need to take it apart.

Just take the trigger / hammer assembly (the part that pops off from the bottom) and soak the whole thing in a solvent until it's squeaky clean. Then dry it.

Then place a drop or two of good gun oil everywhere one part touches another part. Hold the hammer back and pull the sear forward (you may need someone else to help you here) and put a little grease (moly disulfide if you have any) on the hammer / sear engagement points. Carefully hold the hammer from dropping, pull the trigger and slightly press on the disconnector lever (it takes practice!) and release / recock the hammer a few times to work the moly grease onto the sear surfaces. Be sure you control the hammer with your fingers - don't let it slam down or you might damage the whole assembly.

Be sure you leave the hammer cocked when you're done (else the trigger / hammer assembly won't go back in!)

Put a little moly grease on the top of the hammer (where the bolt slides over it) and put a drop of oil on each bolt carrier rail. Also put a drop or two of oil on the mating surfaces of the bolt and bolt carrier (or better, a thin film of moly grease on the shiny wear points - you'll see those clearly).

Swab out the bore to be sure it's clean (Hoppes #9, a nylon brush and a clean patch, repeat until the black and green shit stops coming out). Then wipe the bore down with a clean, sloppy wet patch soaked in Hoppes #9 or good gun oil.

Use a .38 cal or 9mm bore brush to clean out the gas piston tube, and use a wire wheel to clean the carbon soot off the piston head. The piston should slide freely in the tube. Don't oil that part (or if you do just WIPE is with an oily cloth - don't leave any wet oil) because it will burn the first time you fire the rifle and gum up the piston / tube assembly.

Lastly, the first time you take it out, load only one round and be sure it works, Then load three and make sure it doesn't "take off" (stuck firing pin or misadjusted disconnector).

Once you're happy with it, then load all 10 rounds. Stay away from those aftermarket 20 and 30 round SKS mags... none of them work properly.

I totally missed this the first time around. Thank you so much for those tips.

Yeah, I wanted to keep it originally as possible with parts, I just wanted to make sure the firing pin didn't pose as a safety issue.

[Crucial]

Hey everyone,

I contacted Classic about the firing pin and they were kind enough to send me a complete bolt assembly free of charge. My concern now again would be head space as the bolt appears to be a Russian bolt.

Would you just shoot it and check the spent casing (steel), or would you invest in the gauges? If so, where the crap can you find 7.62 x 39? I've not seen them anywhere.

[Silentkilla01]

Hey everyone,

I contacted Classic about the firing pin and they were kind enough to send me a complete bolt assembly free of charge. My concern now again would be head space as the bolt appears to be a Russian bolt.

Would you just shoot it and check the spent casing (steel), or would you invest in the gauges? If so, where the crap can you find 7.62 x 39? I've not seen them anywhere.
Google head spacing for a Chinese ak-47 see what it is and get the gage it requires. Wish you were closer I have a good set of starrett feeler stock Gage's I'd let you use.

[Silentkilla01]

Edit Chinese Sks... Sorry