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O.S.O.K.
10-04-2010, 11:03 AM
I've been posting this up in the general firearms forum but it's turned into a gunsmithing type project so I thought I'd post some about it here too.

I started with this: (Nebraska State Poleece trade-in from Bud's Gun Shop)

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4127/4997213488_9ef94f02f4_b.jpg

Then did this:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/4998992515_21c712584d_b.jpg

I used 4 colors of Krylon ultra flat camo paints and sprayed through some open-weave fabric to get the "scales":


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4999788652_639fd4f1b6_b.jpg

Then, decided to add a Mo-rod (harmonic stabalizing gizmo) ( http://www.mo-rod.com (http://www.mo-rod.com/) ):

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4110/5043398646_d54d4c15a9_b.jpg

I also installed a recoil buffer (1911 type) on the gas piston/op-rod spring - goes between the front of the receiver block and the spring/guide rod - very easy to install.

And finally, after doing some more research on accurizing these, I decided to bed the receiver:

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4124/5051470240_52959221e7_b.jpg

According to reports, the two most effective accuracy mods are 1) bedding the receiver and 2) installing a barrel harmonic dampening rod.

This is actually the second application of bedding compound (used "Accuracy in a Jar" brand epoxy kit) - the first application only had a few contact points -there's lots of room in these receivers. This second application caused the bedding compound to ooze out of the "joints" indicating that it is making more contact...

I decided to do the bedding because with the fcg removed (which locks the receiver down) the receiver would move side to side in the stock about 1mm - which is a lot of slop...

So, after this sets up and I get it cleaned up, it'll go to the range for a test.

Other mods that I found recommended are shortening the barrel to 16" (which I don't want to do), installing a muzzle brake (I like the flash hider I have), firelapping the barrel (mine is very well broken in already) and replacing the gas block with an improved aftermarket one - which didn't seem to cuase any change in accuracy according to the reports - only decreased gas flow and recoil - which is silly IMHO given this is a .223.

aliceinchains
10-04-2010, 05:48 PM
My ain't we a busy beaver. Harmonic stabalizing gizmo? Is this to dampen barrel movement. Like on a compound bow to dampen vibration.

O.S.O.K.
10-04-2010, 06:33 PM
Yeah - just stiffens the barrel to reduce the amount of vibration - or barrel whip. Or so I understand... :tooth:

Infidelski
10-04-2010, 06:39 PM
Looks like a kool project, bedding and all. ?'s of the Mo-rod mod , is that the front hand-guard clamp that it screws up to and is it the hand-guard clamp hard-up against the barrel or something? I'm not a ruger champion but have ranch rifle hiding in the closet ;) Are these mo-rod gizmoids solid bar like a traditional bar-stabilizer or a tube with a reactionary something or another moving around in there???

O.S.O.K.
10-04-2010, 08:59 PM
http://www.mo-rod.com

Its a solid bar that is clamped to the barrel in the front and the gas block in the rear - on this shorty model. The other models have two barrel clamps, so connect in three spots.

And yes, the gas block is clamped to the barrel solidly.

The idea is to stiffen the skinny barrels to improve accuracy - and they reportedly work.

Hopefully, I will find out tomorrow. :)

arcangel
10-04-2010, 10:21 PM
Nice mini man, I really dig the scales look. Any plans for a red-dot or glass? Or keepin it irons?

O.S.O.K.
10-05-2010, 08:07 AM
Thanks. This one is an old-school, no mount mini and although I could get an aftermarket handguard with rail for example, I don't plan on it. The aperture sights are quite adequate for the intended roll of range maurading and can killing :)

arcangel
10-05-2010, 10:27 AM
right on

O.S.O.K.
10-05-2010, 09:12 PM
OK - got to the range for a quick session with it. Bottom line, I found that it really shoots differently depending on how you bench it - even more than most rifles. If you support both buttstock and forstock on the rest, it shoots about 4" lower and the groups run about 2". If you just rest the front and hold the butt against your shoulder with some "soft" support under to steady, it shoots about 3" groups.

The carbine did something weird too - the bolt locked back and kind of stuck the bolt release and wouldn't let go.

I figured it was the maybe the buffer that I put in it but in thinking about it more later, I think maybe some of the stock bedding compound may be getting in the way of the bolt release - so I have to check that tomorrow...

All this shooting was with SS109.

Oh, one good thing is that from a cold barrel it shot a round group - no freaky flyer.

So now - I check the bolt release and take it back to the range for another try...

I may take my shooting mat and try some from prone - my AR's also shoot to a different POA from the bench fully supported - but I don't remember how much...

O.S.O.K.
10-08-2010, 01:23 PM
Well, made it back to the range this afternoon.

Here are the results:

First and best group with same ammo (SS109):
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4090/5063071588_a32004ea53_b.jpg

Largest group:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4149/5063071618_be65988e57_b.jpg

So, it actually shot a bit better with just the bedding and no mo-rod.
Frankly, I was skeptical of the mo-rod due to its abreviated size. All of the positive comments that I've read on these were about the full-length models.

So, the mo-rod will stay off - and I'll be happy with the 2.5" or so average grouping for this rifle with the penetrator SS109 stuff - which I like for serious work.

arcangel
10-08-2010, 04:58 PM
Thats not bad tho, when u have the chance any match grade stuff should bring that group in for u a bit. But for serious work or just range time 2.5+ Moa is very acceptable to me.