Newbie Question

[Antonrx]

Hey all. I just picked up my first AK variant... MAK 90 underfolder... It shot well and other than a little sight adjustment, it's awesome! The only thing is I can't figure out what year it is? I've read that the serial number will have a prefix stating the year but mine doesn't (0079xx)... It has a threaded barrel end; which I've heard is more sought after... It doesn't have the double hook trigger though? Only single hook? Looks like a Tapco handle too. On the left side at the back it says:

MAK 90
7.62 X 39 MM
Made in China
By Norinco
GLNICLACA

Sorry for the long description. How do you post pics?

Thanx

[slamfire51]

Hey all. I just picked up my first AK variant... MAK 90 underfolder... It shot well and other than a little sight adjustment, it's awesome! The only thing is I can't figure out what year it is? I've read that the serial number will have a prefix stating the year but mine doesn't (0079xx)... It has a threaded barrel end; which I've heard is more sought after... It doesn't have the double hook trigger though? Only single hook? Looks like a Tapco handle too. On the left side at the back it says:

MAK 90
7.62 X 39 MM
Made in China
By Norinco
GLNICLACA

Sorry for the long description. How do you post pics?

Thanx

Welcome to the board Antonrx.
Welcome to your new AK addiction.

Imanaknut here is the resident expert on Chinese AKs. I'm sure he will be seeing this shortly. He more than likely will have the info you seek.

I opened an account (free) at Photobucket.. www.photobucket.com and upload my pics there to post here. If you decide to go the Photobucket route, and have a problem, just post back here and we'll help you out.

[Antonrx]

Thanx buddy... I'll post some pics once I set up the photobucket account.

[Antonrx]

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/154c8862.jpg

[slamfire51]

http://http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/154c8862.jpg

I fixed for you.

[slamfire51]

Hey, that's a nice Mak.
I like.

[Antonrx]

http://s1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/

How's this?? Can't figure out how to post them on here so I included the link...

[slamfire51]

http://s1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/

How's this?? Can't figure out how to post them on here so I included the link...

Go back to Photobucket, click on a pic in your album.
There is a box to the right of the pic.
Left click on IMG code. It will turn yellow and say, "COPIED".

Now go to where you want to post it and right click and click paste.
That's all there is to it.

I did exactly as I described below.

Give it another try.


TEST

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/b00cae18.jpg

[Antonrx]

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/2b10e161.jpg
http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/15fb4891.jpg

Thanx Slamfire51!!!

[imanaknut]

Welcome to the group, and the AK-addiction !!! :welcome:

When the MAK-90 came into being thanks to George Bush the First being afraid of bayo lugs, flash hiders, and pistol grips, some of the ones caught in port during the first days of the ban were allowed in with only minor modifications.

Some underfolders just had the famous Bush-hole stock installed over the folded folder with a tang welded on for the stock screw. Most had the folder removed and a rivet holding plates in place was intalled to cover the folder holes before the Bush-hole stock was installed.

Many had a muzzle nut tack welded to the front sight, with the cleaning rod holder still intact but the ears of the bay lug on the gas block ground off.

Yours was just after that with the cleaning rod holders completely ground off because ATF found that an evil bayonet could be clamped onto the front sight cleaning rod holder.

I would guess that your rifle was one with the riveted folder holes. Someone cut the rivet, and installed the folding stock, ground off the tack welds and installed the muzzle brake. Then because of another really stupid rule, originally known as 922(r), the owner removed that great Chinese fire control group and installed the Tapco parts so that the rifle didn't have more than 10 imported parts, per the stupid imported parts rule/sporting purpose clause of the ATF version of the second amendment.

Clear as mud?

Anyway, the only MAK-90s with dated serial numbers were the 1993 and 1994. Rumors of a few with "92" are floating around but I have never seen one. Yours most likely is an late 1990 based on the fact that it doesn't say "MAK-90 Sporter" and was still with the threaded barrel but without the cleaning rod holders.

Regardless of all the stupidity of 922(r), now Title 277 CFR 478.39, and the stupidity of anti-firearm George Bush the First, the MAK-90 maintained the desirable shooting qualities of the early Norinco 56S, just in baby loving angelic form.

Enjoy your rifle, one of the nicer post-bans floating around. I just happen to have a Chinese folding stock just waiting to be installed on a MAK-90 or NHM90 with the receiver set up for the folder, but in full "Bush-gear".

[Full Otto]

Next time polish your toenails

Welcome nice rifle

[Antonrx]

thanx guys... I appreciate the info! Do you think I should swap out the single trigger for the double tapco trigger? I've done some research so I realize the double trigger is suposed to be more smooth and the fact that the receiver has the cut out for a double makes me feel like I should change it... What you all think?

[imanaknut]

I wouldn't change the trigger unless you don't like the feel.

Someone was worried about your feet, yet failed to mention that the slant brake on your MAK-90 is upside down. There should be a detent pin in the front sight base. That pin fits into a slot in the brake to align it correctly. The brake aids on a real-deal AKM that in full auto climbs up and left. On a semi-auto it is not as noticeable, but should still direct the gases up and left helping push the muzzle down and right.

[Full Otto]

Not worried just trying to be helpful

http://www.gunsnet.net/showthread.php?7649-Got-yellow-toenails

[imanaknut]

:anim_beer-1:

[Full Otto]

While your here and I'm guessing it's been asked before.
In regards to the front site block
Is that solid in those without the hole or is there room in there for the spring and detent pin if you drilled the hole for it through the front?

[romak10/63UF]

If you have ever tooking out your fire control group it can be a pain in the ass to get back in... if you have experiance in doing this yes i would tell you to go back an get the right trigger groud for your mac-90.... i personally owend a MAC-90 milled reciver ak-47 hands down that was the best ak-47 i ever had the double hook trigger give you 100% better feel over the rifle when shooting it... This is my thoughts... coming from some one who have owned over 5 differant types of ak-47s in my life time... Im sure the old timers would agree the double hook trigger is smoother than the single hook.

By the way nice rifle.... ! A + deal !:clap:

[imanaknut]

I did drill out a sight block to install the retaining pin and it was unfortunately solid.

[Antonrx]

I wouldn't change the trigger unless you don't like the feel.

Someone was worried about your feet, yet failed to mention that the slant brake on your MAK-90 is upside down. There should be a detent pin in the front sight base. That pin fits into a slot in the brake to align it correctly. The brake aids on a real-deal AKM that in full auto climbs up and left. On a semi-auto it is not as noticeable, but should still direct the gases up and left helping push the muzzle down and right.

I'm glad you mentioned that... I noticed a slot in the break that lines up with a hole in the base of the front site but there is no pin to keep it there... What's the best way to fix this?

[imanaknut]

The front cross pin in the sight block holds the locking pin in place. These are the parts you need:

http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16516&cat=319&page=1

http://www.k-var.com/shop/product.php?productid=16436

The cross pin is sometimes a bear to drive out. I lay the rifle on my garage floor with a scrap of carpet protecting the rifle itself. Lay the front sight on a 2x4 scrap with a hole drilled in it to catch the cross pin. I use a punch holder so that I can get a good hit on the punch with a heavy hammer or steel mallet. That way I don't have to worry about fingers or a hand getting in the way of an errant hammer blow. ;)

Once you have the cross pin out, clean out the locking pin hole hole, which over the years might have picked up some dirt or a bit of rust. Then install the spring and slide in the locking pin itself, small end first (obviously) and make sure the slot is pointing down so that the cross pin goes under the locking pin. I usually start the cross pin first, just enough so that I can still get the spring and locking pin in. Then lightly tap it into place, with each hammer hit making sure that the locking pin moves freely. You don't need the punch at this time, so you can hold the plunger pin in with one hand and tap the cross pin with the other. It is very easy to have the locking pin slightly sideways and the cross pin will cause it to bind and not allow the cross pin to go in all the way. Once the cross pin is in enough to keep the plunger pin in, and it moves freely, then you can us the punch to fully seat the cross pin.

The reason I say use a garage floor, or other concrete floor is that a work bench regardless as to how sturdy it appears, will have some flex which is just enough to absorb some of the impact of the hammer on the punch, which doesn't allow the full blow to be transmitted to the cross pin.

[Full Otto]

This may help a little

http://i53.tinypic.com/246uiow.jpg

[Antonrx]

so, I notice 2 pins... Which one is the one I need to back out? Again, thanx for the info! I hope I can contribute to the forum like this some day...

[slamfire51]

so, I notice 2 pins... Which one is the one I need to back out? Again, thanx for the info! I hope I can contribute to the forum like this some day...

The front pin is the one to remove.

[imanaknut]

so, I notice 2 pins... Which one is the one I need to back out? Again, thanx for the info! I hope I can contribute to the forum like this some day...

Don't feel bad about asking questions. We were all new to this at one time. Also remember the only stupid question is the one you don't ask and then post that you damaged something or found out after spending $1000 that the rifle was really worth only $500!!! :thumbsup:

[Antonrx]

Hey guys.. Had some time to play with the pin and I've got some questions.. It looks like there is a spring loaded pin already inserted it's just not poling out? Plus I've tried hitting the retaining pin out with no luck(I'm actually bending/breaking punches)... What to do? Do I even need to get a new pin or can I just get this one to come out?

[imanaknut]

OK, fun time.

First the obvious question, did you remove the slant brake? Not going back to my other posts, it is left hand thread, so you would take it off "backwards".

Now the fun part. Try soaking the pin with a penetrating oil. Then try punching the front cross pin out from the other direction. I have seen on rare occasions pins that were very slightly tapered and were directional.

To start the pin moving, I use a pointed punch just to break it loose. Once it is broken loose then you can use a pin punch to drive the pin all the way out.

The fun part comes when you have the pin out and find that the detent pin is not a standard detent pin but one driven in to plug the hole. I had one Norinco that I had to drill a tiny hole in the back of the front sight, into the detent pin hole, and then punch the pin out from the back. Before trying that, after you have the cross pin out, if the detent pin is still stuck, soak it with a penetrating oil and let it sit a while.

Another potential way to get a stuck detent pin out is after soaking it with the cross pin out, heat up the front sight block. After it is hot, tap it with a hammer on the back to try to shake the detent pin loose. Of course, a few dozen rounds down the tube could warm it up and shake it enough to cause the pin to pop out. You will not hurt anything by firing the rifle with only one cross pin holding the front sight in place.

Yes, sometimes you just have to forget about conventional methods when trying to undo Bush the First stupidity.

Good luck!

[Antonrx]

I have the break off and I've tried penetrating oil... Check this photo out to see what I'm talking about... You can push the pin in a bit and feel that it's spring loaded. Maybe the it was ground down and left in? Was this part of the Bush the 1st treatment? Anyway, check out the photo and see what I'm talking about... As far as the retaining pin, I'll try heating it up.

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k591/Antonrx2011/510e0b96.jpg

[Full Otto]

Only experience I've had was with a pre ban. I tried the oil and working with it but wouldn't budge. I took it to a smith down the road who did similar as nut was saying. He was able to get it out and we found the pin was bent. Probably from previous owner trying to get the brake off the wrong way. He made a new pin hot blued it and got it working real good again. Only wanted ten bucks but I gave him twenty for the lesson.
It's been a while and memory is foggy but I seem to recall once he had the cross pin out there was enough room to get at the pin. I Think that's what nut is saying but describing it and the tool I can't really help much.
Could be it was bent on purpose for import but hard to say really hopefully it's just stuck with grit and such
It's well worth doing so just take your time and keep asking you'll get it

[slamfire51]

I ran into this with a rusted Romy kit.
I used a bent awl (bent close to the sharp end) and put it in where the front pin was. I then tapped the awl and the pin came out without too much effort.
If your pin is just stuck, this may work for you.