Refinishing a CZ-82

[slamfire51]

If a person wanted to refinish a CZ-82, what type blasting media would you use to remove the crappy factory finish?
Would sand be too abrasive?

[Schuetzenman]

I always favored 120 grit aluminum oxide for blasting weapons. Especially important when using Gun Kote because if the finish is too slick, (glass beads) it won't stick well.

[slamfire51]

I always favored 120 grit aluminum oxide for blasting weapons. Especially important when using Gun Kote because if the finish is too slick, (glass beads) it won't stick well.

Where can a person find Alum oxide?

[slamfire51]

To answer my own question, Harbor Freight has 44 lbs. for $49.
I can pick it up in Nashville and save shipping.

Thanks for you reply Schuetzenman, I forgot about AO.

[jojo]

Life is much easier than that. Get you some paint stripper, an old toothbrush and a can of Chemtool carburetor cleaner. Then buy you some of the parkerizing solution from Alleganey Arms. I did one a few months ago and it turned out great. Takes about 30 minutes to clean it and 30 minutes to parkerize it.


http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb376/asmcjoe/Picture001.jpg

[slamfire51]

Life is much easier than that. Get you some paint stripper, an old toothbrush and a can of Chemtool carburetor cleaner. Then buy you some of the parkerizing solution from Alleganey Arms. I did one a few months ago and it turned out great. Takes about 30 minutes to clean it and 30 minutes to parkerize it.

Thanks for your reply, but I plan to use Duracoat, therefore the metal has to be "roughed up" to get the paint to adhere properly.
I don't want to spend a fortune on a low cost weapon.

[jojo]

I fugure that I have about $35 in parkerizing it. Although the picture doesn't show good, the color and texture are very uniform. The grips came off of eBay for $24.

[slamfire51]

I fugure that I have about $35 in parkerizing it. Although the picture doesn't show good, the color and texture are very uniform. The grips came off of eBay for $24.

I just saw your pic.
My ISP server is screwed. Loading slower than dial up.That's the reason I didn't see the pic.
Nice job you did with the Park, and I love those grips. Really sets the park color off.

[jojo]

Thanks but there is absolutely no work involved in parkerizing if you have the surfaces degreased. You just mix the solution with water, put it in a stainless steel pot and boil it until the bubbles stop or you are satisfied with the color. I should have oiled it down for the photo as it has been in my glove box since I parkerized it. As long as you don't contaminate the solution with oils, you can use it over and over again.

Here's the solution that I use http://www.mg34.com/Parkerizing.html

[FunkyPertwee]

I've always thought a CZ-82 would look good blued. Duracoat is the utilitarian choice, however.

[slamfire51]

I just got another CZ-82, this time from J&G. $231 including shipping.
It came with just 1 mag and a SIG 225/6 shoulder holster.???????????????
The shoulder holster is useless because the CZ fits like a BB in a coke can.

The finish has more holster wear than the last one I bought. Some chipping on the back strap. Grips are in pretty good shape, with dings from normal use.
Internals look really good. Very little wear if any on the bottom of the slide.

Taking one of the mags and selling them separately is just wrong for a company to do this.

All in all, I'm pleased with it.

Not the best pics, but then again, I'm NO photographer.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/cz824212011005.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/nitesitesandcz-824222011002.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/nitesitesandcz-824222011003.jpg

[O.S.O.K.]

You will never find one as nice as that first one you bought :D It's the schitz. :lool:

:D

Put that holster on gunbroker for $30 plus shipping - you can use the proceeds to buy a case of high dollar beer :)

[slamfire51]

You will never find one as nice as that first one you bought :D It's the schitz. :lool:

:D

Put that holster on gunbroker for $30 plus shipping - you can use the proceeds to buy a case of high dollar beer :)

You are right, it is a beaut.
Good idea on the holster.
I don't drink anymore, but I could use another mag for it.

[FunkyPertwee]

Im a big CZ82 fan. I just need more mags and a right hand holster, as AIM shipped mine with a lefty.

I liked mine so much I had to get a CZ-75b Cold War Edition to keep it company.

[slamfire51]

I just found a set of new night sights in my parts box.. They look exactly the same height and dovetails are identical.
I may install them in the near future. Hmm, I think I got these as a bonus gift from CDNN when I ordered some mags.

Free is good.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/nitesitesandcz-824222011001.jpg

[slamfire51]

My question is, will Acetone remove the painted finish on CZs? Specifically, the CZ-82.
I have a gallon of the stuff and since it's a extreme solvent, I'm thinking it should dissolve the paint.

[O.S.O.K.]

I don't think so.

The finish on the Cz is pretty tough - more of a baked-on enamel or ceramic type stuff.

[slamfire51]

I don't think so.

The finish on the Cz is pretty tough - more of a baked-on enamel or ceramic type stuff.

Yeah, I guess paint stripper is the way to get it off.
I've been doing some research on refinishing these little pistols.
The consensus is to strip and blue. I've seen some very impressive looking blued 82s.
I believe that's the route I'm going to take.

Here's a link to one.
http://www.czforumsite.info/index.php?topic=30186.15

Post #5 at this link.
http://www.thefirearmsforum.com/showthread.php?t=85962

[slamfire51]

I've always thought a CZ-82 would look good blued. Duracoat is the utilitarian choice, however.

I have to agree.
I've done a lot of research, and the blued and park'ed look great.

[FunkyPertwee]

I have to agree.
I've done a lot of research, and the blued and park'ed look great.

The thread from the CZ forum you posted has convinced me to prioritize the customization of my CZ handguns. I need Marschall grips for both, I need to paint my CZ-82 sights, and I'm debating bluing the CZ-82 because the factory finish on mine is only worn in a few small spots. I want to get a lanyard loop for the CZ-75b, and holsters for both. I'm thinking Falco on the holsters as they are made in Slovakia, and they used to get good reviews from Makarov.com.

[slamfire51]

OK, after a couple days of researching, I've decided to park the CZ.
I've been reading up on the process, and I have everything needed except the park solution.
I believe I'll order the kit from the link jojo gave above.

Jojo, if you don't mind and have the time, can you post a step by step turtorial on parking?
It would be much appreciated.

[slamfire51]

Since I decided which finish to to use, I tore down the CZ and separated the parts into different sections depending on their place.
Next step is cleaning.


http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/czapart4252011002.jpg

[slamfire51]

I ordered the home parkerzing kit from Allegheny Arsenal this morning. $37.95 shipping included.
I've collected all the stainless steel pots, SS mesh strainers, and SS tongs, and thermometer.
I'm using the side burner on the gas grill to heat the solution, so looks all my ducks are in a row when the kit arrives.

I'm going to media blast the parts today or tomorrow. I dislike this phase of refinishing, but it's necessary. Someday soon, I plan to build a blasting cabinet. That will make blasting easier and cleaner.

[whos2kno]

i had 2 bran new ones but sold them a few years. i got a ex+ one i carry now. one of my favorite C&R weapons ive ever own.

[slamfire51]

i had 2 brand new ones but sold them a few years. i got a ex+ one i carry now. one of my favorite C&R weapons ive ever own.

I agree. Sweet carry guns.

I'm in the process of refinishing this one.
Parkerizing kit is headed my way. Got the kit from Allegheny Arsenal.
The pistol is apart and waiting to get a new dress. :)

[slamfire51]

Media blasting, specifically sand blasting is what I am doing Wednesday after the parkerizing chemicals arrive.
I've read that the surface needs to be micro pitted for the solution to go into, thus providing the parking to retain more lube.
Sounds reasonable to me, so that's what I'm doing.

[slamfire51]

The park kit came in yesterday. I took the parts today and degreased them and will sand blast them tomorrow.

Stay tuned.

[slamfire51]

I sand blasted all the CZ-82 parts yesterday and as soon as the rain stops, I degrease again and Park everything.
Here's a pic of the frame blasted.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/cz82blasted003.jpg

[slamfire51]

I mixed 8 oz. park solution with 1-1/2 gallons of distilled water then heated it on the side burner of the grill.
Heated it to 180 degrees as recommended by Allegheny Aresenal's instructions.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone004.jpg

I dropped the small parts in a SS strainer in first. Boiling from the reaction with the steel started right away.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone003.jpg

The recommended time in the solution is 15 minutes, but I left them in for 25, thinking this would be better.

After removing the parts from the Park solution, I rinsed them well with hot water, then soaked them in the Park neutralizer.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone001.jpg

The mag body, slide and frame went in next.
The pics look like the parts came out rough looking, (scared me until I wiped excess oil off a part) but this is because they are covered in the Park neutralizing oil.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone005.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone006.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/parkdone007.jpg



I am really pleased with the results. I'm going to let the neutralizer soak into the steel for a few hours before reassembly.

[Schuetzenman]

Park is nice, but it isn't Gun Kote. With your newly parked pistol there it is ready for Gun Kote. Park is 78 times more resistant to rust than bluing but Gun Kote, 600 hours of salt water spray with no rust through. Park can't do that no matter how well oiled. Gunk Kote loves to stick to a degreased new Park job.

[slamfire51]

Park is nice, but it isn't Gun Kote. With your newly parked pistol there it is ready for Gun Kote. Park is 78 times more resistant to rust than bluing but Gun Kote, 600 hours of salt water spray with no rust through. Park can't do that no matter how well oiled. Gunk Kote loves to stick to a degreased new Park job.

I'm aware of this, but I don't have an airbrush or other equipment to GunKote it.
On a small gun as this one, the rattle can GunKote doesn't give the spray control I need.
It works fine on an AK or other larger weapons.

[slamfire51]

What a friggin nightmare.

I started reassembling it @ 8PM last night, and was almost finished @ 2 AM when I discovered the hammer strut would not go into the frame with the trigger installed.:dammit:

Disgusted, (not the word I would use to describe my feelings in private), I disassembled everything and started again this morning. All went together very fast the second time around.

The refinish came out perfectly. I managed to reassemble without one scratch on the new finish. An amazing accomplishment considering how many parts there were and how they had to be installed.

Here's the pics. Complete with 120 gr. Silver Bear HPs.


http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/finished3005.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c80/Canis-latrans/finished3002.jpg

[FunkyPertwee]

Looks good!

I didn't realize that the CZ-82 was so complex. I guess I need to strip mine down and check it out.

[slamfire51]

Looks good!

I didn't realize that the CZ-82 was so complex. I guess I need to strip mine down and check it out.

Thanks.
It's not bad after you do it a couple of times. :laughingtohard:

[FunkyPertwee]

Thanks.
It's not bad after you do it a couple of times. :laughingtohard:

Is this the one your using in the postal match?

I'll be using my CZ-82. My classic Hi-power isn't old enough. Well, I guess its about the same age as my CZ-82 but its not on the C&R list.

[slamfire51]

Is this the one your using in the postal match?

I'll be using my CZ-82. My classic Hi-power isn't old enough. Well, I guess its about the same age as my CZ-82 but its not on the C&R list.

Yep.
I had to dress her up for the big event.

[whos2kno]

wow that look good!!!

[Schuetzenman]

I'm aware of this, but I don't have an airbrush or other equipment to GunKote it.
On a small gun as this one, the rattle can GunKote doesn't give the spray control I need.
It works fine on an AK or other larger weapons.

Unfortunate that is. If you were closer I'd say bring it over and we'll spray it up. An airbrush, at least a single stage airbrush suitable for Gun Kote painting isn't a major fortune. But, if you don't have a compressor you will be facing some big coin to get set up.

[jojo]

Yep.
I had to dress her up for the big event.

Sorry I didn't check back on this thread. You did a great job. I couldn't believe that you "completely" disassembled it. I just took the slide off, plugged the barrel and boiled it. Of course it was degreased and cleaned already. Once I took it out I flushed it out with hot water and cycled the action under the hot water with dawn dish washing soap. Set it aside to dry and then oiled it down. Carried it out and started shooting it within 45 minutes of parking it. I'm gonna say that all together with the paint stripping, cleaning/degreasing and then parking it took maybe 2.5 hours at the most.

At least you are intimately familiar with your CZ now. Hehe. Looks great. Keep up the good work. Hope you saved the solution. It's good until you contaminate the solution with oil.

[my-rifle]

Park is nice, but it isn't Gun Kote. With your newly parked pistol there it is ready for Gun Kote. Park is 78 times more resistant to rust than bluing but Gun Kote, 600 hours of salt water spray with no rust through. Park can't do that no matter how well oiled. Gunk Kote loves to stick to a degreased new Park job.

Hey Schuetz! Why would the OP want to strip off the original enamel finish just to put another one on? I'd think aesthetics would have something to do with the decision.

I can say that both parked as well as blued guns do not stand up well AT ALL to removing and replacing a pistol in a holster day after day after day. The original CZ82 finish on the other hand is amazingly durable. Two years of daily removal and replacement, and it's still holding up like it was the day I got it. It does not look as good as that parked gun though :)

[Schuetzenman]

Hey Schuetz! Why would the OP want to strip off the original enamel finish just to put another one on? I'd think aesthetics would have something to do with the decision.

I can say that both parked as well as blued guns do not stand up well AT ALL to removing and replacing a pistol in a holster day after day after day. The original CZ82 finish on the other hand is amazingly durable. Two years of daily removal and replacement, and it's still holding up like it was the day I got it. It does not look as good as that parked gun though :)

I would assume he did it because this wasn't a pristine example of a CZ82. Gun Kote is a very tough finish and I would expect it to hold up to holster insertion and removal quite well. Nothing's harder on a finish than the safety selector switch on an AK weapon. I've yet to have my AK scratch through the Gun Kote after years of use.

[mnegie]

Life is much easier than that. Get you some paint stripper, an old toothbrush and a can of Chemtool carburetor cleaner. Then buy you some of the parkerizing solution from Alleganey Arms. I did one a few months ago and it turned out great. Takes about 30 minutes to clean it and 30 minutes to parkerize it.


http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb376/asmcjoe/Picture001.jpg

JoJo - What kind of paint stripper did you use; mineral spirits or another organic solvent base? Thanks, Mark

[jojo]

I just used the "Aircraft Paint Stripper" you get at Autozone. Actually I think it came from O'riellys. I just broke mine down into sub assemblies and didn't take it completely apart like slamfire did. Took a toothbrush and just worked it around until it all came off. Then I put somemore on it after it was cleaned and bushed it again to get some tiny specks that I missed. Once finished I sprayed it off/out with Chemtool carburetor cleaner and swished it around in MEK to make sure it was clean. I then got the Park solution going on my stove in a stainless bowl while I washed the parts again in hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent. From there I immediately rinsed in hot water and put in the park solution for about 5-7 minutes. Let it bubble till it stopped, assembled it and put it back in the sink full of soapy water and worked the action a few times. Rinsed it in hot water while cycling the action then dried it off and hosed it down with BreakFree. I forget how long it took but it couldn't have been much longer than 1.5 hours or so. After I blew all of the excess BreakFree out of it I took it out back and put a few clips thru it.

I might add that while I appreciate the effort that Slamfire put into the disassembly of his, I was too concerned about losing small parts and maybe scratching it up during reassembly. I'm older and my eyes are not so good as they used to be.

[slamfire51]

I just used the "Aircraft Paint Stripper" you get at Autozone. Actually I think it came from O'riellys. I just broke mine down into sub assemblies and didn't take it completely apart like slamfire did. Took a toothbrush and just worked it around until it all came off. Then I put somemore on it after it was cleaned and bushed it again to get some tiny specks that I missed. Once finished I sprayed it off/out with Chemtool carburetor cleaner and swished it around in MEK to make sure it was clean. I then got the Park solution going on my stove in a stainless bowl while I washed the parts again in hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent. From there I immediately rinsed in hot water and put in the park solution for about 5-7 minutes. Let it bubble till it stopped, assembled it and put it back in the sink full of soapy water and worked the action a few times. Rinsed it in hot water while cycling the action then dried it off and hosed it down with BreakFree. I forget how long it took but it couldn't have been much longer than 1.5 hours or so. After I blew all of the excess BreakFree out of it I took it out back and put a few clips thru it.

I might add that while I appreciate the effort that Slamfire put into the disassembly of his, I was too concerned about losing small parts and maybe scratching it up during reassembly. I'm older and my eyes are so good as they used to be.

Not to mention your blood pressure going sky high from aggravation. :lol2:

[mnegie]

JoJo, thank you very much for outlining the process you used. I was worried that I would have to disassemble my 82 to the point of individual parts to park my weapon. I too have a bad case of "CSC" - Can't See Crap! If my 82 turns out as half a nice as your weapon I'll be well pleased. Again, thanks. -Mark

[slamfire51]

JoJo, thank you very much for outlining the process you used. I was worried that I would have to disassemble my 82 to the point of individual parts to park my weapon. I too have a bad case of "CSC" - Can't See Crap! If my 82 turns out as half a nice as your weapon I'll be well pleased. Again, thanks. -Mark

This is the tutorial I went by.
Without it, I would have been screwed.

http://myweb.cableone.net/leolani/cz-82-disassembly.html

[WOD]

I like those wooden grips! I have an extra grip set in OD Duracoat, which I was going to use as a template to make a set of wooden grips for mine. Right now my big decision is.. which wood to use. The enamel finish on mine is pretty good for an 87, the only rough spots are where CAI's import marks are on the slide..bastards!

[mnegie]

The link you provided was very informative. I'm still a little hesitant on doing a total breakdown of my 82, but armed with a little knowledge and four beers I may give it a try. The link is to the CZ-82/82 manual; this has a parts list to go with the exploded drawing of the CZ-82. I truly appreciate the help and insights from the members of this forum.

http://www.cz-usa.com/download/58/

[jojo]

Kewl. Let us know how it worked out for you and post some pics. Remember that oil / fingerprints are going to prevent the park from properly etching the metal (don't take shortcuts on degreasing) so make sure it's good and clean/oil free with Acetone or MEK.

Try not to contaminate the solution with oil and you can reuse it for some other projects.