O.S.O.K.
05-03-2011, 09:38 AM
OK, we've all seen different camo'd guns. There are all kinds of ways of going about it. Some involve painting the stocks with various paterns using a brush or air brush, some are just spray paint cross-hatches and some are basically camo tape that is wrapped around the gun. And then there's dipping to apply hi-def imiages and there's also the camo "clothing" that can be zipped or hook and looped onto your long gun. I have seen some really nicely painted camo patterns - but the person doing the painting has some skill and not everyone can do this well.
I personally have found a quick and easy method that gives a durable finish and has an effective and nice looking camo patern. And it's cheap too!
This can be applied to wood, metal and polymer.
My subject or victim is a used Mini 14 that I bought recently. I removed the stock and did it separately, but as you will see, you can use the same method for the whole rifle if you want to.
Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4994314638_e1c08ddb01_b.jpg
The "tools":
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5028/5683923572_f65e1f5dc4_b.jpg
As you can see, not much to it! Just some Krylon matt camo paint - two or more colors , some acetone and some kind of open-weave fabric. I had some fishnet camo fabric on hand and so used that.
The process if very simple.
1) Completely degrease the entire piece to be painted with the acetone. This is a very important step as it will ensure that you get good adhesion with the paint. The acetone will remove many types of finishes so know that before you get started. It didn't have much of an effect on the factory finish that Ruger used on this stock however. The point is, remove all oil and grease before applying the paints.
2) Apply an even coat of "base color" to the piece. I use a lighter color like the dessert tan as my base. The Kryolon camo paint will dry enough to be handled (wear latex gloves to prevent oil from your skin getting on the paint) within 5 minutes on a warm day.
3) After the first coat has dried enough, lay the fish net or other fabric over a section of the stock or gun. Make sure to have the fabric down on the stock - not floating above and flat - so as to make a clearly defined impression. Then, choose a darker color paint and begin shooting "spots" and shapes about 3 or 4" in diameter spaced apart from each other - hold the can about 6" above the piece. Leave the fabric in place or 5 minutes or as long as needed for the paint to initially dry - then move it and continue this process until you have the entire stock done. You can use just one color or as many as you want, but they should be darker than the base - or if you use a dark base, then they need to be lighter than the base. I used OD green, Dark Earth and Black.
4) After these first two applications, place the fabric again - only shift if just slightly from the pattern that you used before - that is, the fabric should be shifted a little to the right or left of where it made the impression before - this will allow you to create some shadowing. Choose a contrasting color (from the spot) and shoot smaller spots and shapes. Again, spray, dry, move the cloth, repeat - until the stock is covered.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5683923576_e9830f1b60_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5026/5683923578_4f99a00edf_b.jpg
After you have completed this process, and the stock or gun has dried overngight, you are done! There's no need to apply a top coat as the Krylon is surprisingly durable. It resists scratches and will just shine up a little where it's rubbed hard.
Of course, if you want to - once the Krylon has cured well, you can apply a clear-coat over this to increase durability - a matt polyurethane - I would go with Krylon brand.
Here's the finished gun:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4999788652_639fd4f1b6_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/4998992515_21c712584d_b.jpg
I personally have found a quick and easy method that gives a durable finish and has an effective and nice looking camo patern. And it's cheap too!
This can be applied to wood, metal and polymer.
My subject or victim is a used Mini 14 that I bought recently. I removed the stock and did it separately, but as you will see, you can use the same method for the whole rifle if you want to.
Before:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4089/4994314638_e1c08ddb01_b.jpg
The "tools":
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5028/5683923572_f65e1f5dc4_b.jpg
As you can see, not much to it! Just some Krylon matt camo paint - two or more colors , some acetone and some kind of open-weave fabric. I had some fishnet camo fabric on hand and so used that.
The process if very simple.
1) Completely degrease the entire piece to be painted with the acetone. This is a very important step as it will ensure that you get good adhesion with the paint. The acetone will remove many types of finishes so know that before you get started. It didn't have much of an effect on the factory finish that Ruger used on this stock however. The point is, remove all oil and grease before applying the paints.
2) Apply an even coat of "base color" to the piece. I use a lighter color like the dessert tan as my base. The Kryolon camo paint will dry enough to be handled (wear latex gloves to prevent oil from your skin getting on the paint) within 5 minutes on a warm day.
3) After the first coat has dried enough, lay the fish net or other fabric over a section of the stock or gun. Make sure to have the fabric down on the stock - not floating above and flat - so as to make a clearly defined impression. Then, choose a darker color paint and begin shooting "spots" and shapes about 3 or 4" in diameter spaced apart from each other - hold the can about 6" above the piece. Leave the fabric in place or 5 minutes or as long as needed for the paint to initially dry - then move it and continue this process until you have the entire stock done. You can use just one color or as many as you want, but they should be darker than the base - or if you use a dark base, then they need to be lighter than the base. I used OD green, Dark Earth and Black.
4) After these first two applications, place the fabric again - only shift if just slightly from the pattern that you used before - that is, the fabric should be shifted a little to the right or left of where it made the impression before - this will allow you to create some shadowing. Choose a contrasting color (from the spot) and shoot smaller spots and shapes. Again, spray, dry, move the cloth, repeat - until the stock is covered.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5027/5683923576_e9830f1b60_b.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5026/5683923578_4f99a00edf_b.jpg
After you have completed this process, and the stock or gun has dried overngight, you are done! There's no need to apply a top coat as the Krylon is surprisingly durable. It resists scratches and will just shine up a little where it's rubbed hard.
Of course, if you want to - once the Krylon has cured well, you can apply a clear-coat over this to increase durability - a matt polyurethane - I would go with Krylon brand.
Here's the finished gun:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4146/4999788652_639fd4f1b6_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4145/4998992515_21c712584d_b.jpg