AK questions

[sisyphus]

Got a SAR-1 recently and don't know how it compares with the WASR's and some others out there. AK guys here may have their own opinions and pref's, but this seems like a pretty good rifle for the money. I'll be taking it out for a run this weekend.

Opinions and advice are welcome.

[F-16 CHIEF]

There's a crowd that will say the SAR-1's are head and shoulders above the rest. I have both and they both shoot great and the finish is comparable.

I will say that since the WASR's had to have the magwell opened up, mags fit much easier in my SAR. Whichever monkey cut out the magwell for my WASR must have been sick that day or something.

I think that other than the mag dimples, you pretty much have the same rifle, but it will always pull a little more dough should you choose to get rid of it.

[Blacksmith]

The bottom line is if it shoots good and is dependable than it’s a good rifle.
All the variations have their own appeal. my preference is the polish . It just fits me.
but that doesn’t make it a better rifle. I would even prefer it above my legend. and there are many that consider the legend the best. They are all good.

[imanaknut]

Moved thread to the Romanian forum. For some reason I don't think it belonged in the black rifle forum.

Anyway, what sets the SAR-1 apart from all other AK variants imported into the United States is that it is the only military issue variant to be sold to those of us who shall not be infringed. All others were commercial rifles made specifically for sale here.

The WASR even had a commercial receiver that could only accept a single stack mag. After importation the importer opened the mag well to allow the use of standard AK mags. Depending on how well that mag well was opened, the rifle either was AK reliable or not. Most were ok.

And yes, the SAR series has the "required" AKM dimples in the receiver.

[sisyphus]

Thanks for the reminder about the Romy forum AKnut. Been away too long , I guess.

............and thanks for all the great info and opinions guys!

[sisyphus]

More questions:

I found out that the front sight on this unit is canted slighty to the left, which causes it to shoot to the right. I used my AK sight tool and moved the post over to the right and it's pretty much dead-on for cantaloupe-sized targets at around 300 yds (if I do my part).

My trigger finger tingled a little after 90 rounds (like if I thwacked it lightly on a table) but it didin't hurt. Can I assume this was from "trigger slap" even though I didn't notice any sharp hit when I fired it?

The big question I have is how come these two problems seem to be inherent in Romy AK's and no others? I can live with it as it now is, but what causes the trigger to slap like that? Any simple remedy other than replacing the trigger parts? It shoots nice with the trigger the way it is......pretty crisp and light and not a lot of takeup.

[cciota]

Linx310's site addresses triggerslap cause and fix.

http://www.novarata.net/Linx310/slapfix.htm

Lot's of good info there. I learned alot from his site!

[imanaknut]

Trigger slap is a problem on most Romanian AK variants mainly because Century doesn't use quality trigger parts when they replace the Romanian fire control group with an American made set to make the rifle baby safe per ATF and some dumb president of the past.

I had a Maadi MISR S/A that was a Century import and after about two rounds I had to put it down because the trigger tried to shatter my finger.

Virtually any AK can have trigger slap, and in fact many firearms can have trigger slap. In the case of the AK it is a function of how the hammer is captured by the disconnector on recoil, and the geometry of the disconnector and the trigger. The underside of the disconnector contacts the cross piece on the trigger between the trigger arms that hold the hammer spring. If you have trigger slap, you can usually see the shiny mark on the trigger left by the disconnector.

Per the instructions on the LINX310 page, you can remove some material from the bottom of the disconnector where it is hitting the trigger cross piece. You can also remove a little from the trigger but be careful because the spring for the disconnector does not have much of a pocket in the trigger cross part, so you don't want to take of too much there or you could wind up with spring issues.

The other thing to do is get an aftermarket set from Tapco or a Redstar Arms set.

[sisyphus]

Thanks for the input CCIOTA and AKNut. That is a good site and I'll have to take some time with it.............LOTS of details and info. Then again, being the lazy type, I might just live with the barely noticeable tingle I got after shooting it. It really does well for what I'll be using it for.

What's your verdict on how come Romy's have that sight cant? I've seen some that are terrible, but like I stated, mine's canted only slightly.

[AK-J]

I've seen front sight cant on AKs of just about every country of origin. My MAK90 had front sight cant. Some have none, some have a little, and some shouldn't have left the factory that way.

[cciota]

What's your verdict on how come Romy's have that sight cant? I've seen some that are terrible, but like I stated, mine's canted only slightly.

Mine has a bit of cant but nothing terrible. Just part of the mystique, I suppose.

[sisyphus]

OK............thanks for the input guys.

These AK's grow on you to where they have their own brand of "beauty in the eye of the beholder" who appreciates them for their strong points of which there are several.

Dependability under almost any circumstances has a beauty all its own.

[sisyphus]

Been looking at the link cciota posted and also at Tapco's trigger online. At the Tapco site, they recommend a "retaining plate" for use with their group, but this SAR doesn't seem to have anything either like that or a "shepherds crook" as was explained to me by someone. I assume this part would be mounted somewhere on the left inside of the receiver but I can't find where. I know what they look like (from pics) but nothing inside this AK looks like those.

I got the urge to try the dremel repair on the FCG after shooting today when noticing the slap to be harder than I thought before. Do those parts come out pretty easy? After working on double barrel shotguns many years ago I'm a little shy of having any parts go springing-off into oblivion.

[Bluntforce]

I have an evil plan to replace my shepherd's crooks from mine if/when I ever take them apart that far.

I want to know if the Tapco retainer plate will fit a PSL?

[imanaknut]

The "shepherd's hook" is that little thin wire along the left side of the receiver. It runs thru a groove in the hammer and trigger axis pins.

The nice thing about the SAR is that there is a relief under the trigger pin that allows you to push the wire down and out of the groove in the trigger pin. You can then slide the pin out without having to completely remove the shepherd's hook.

What I like to do is take the springs that sit on either side of the trigger, and using needle nosed pliers, lock them around the hammer. Using safety wire or something like it (wire tie) tie the spring around the hammer so that it doesn't surprise you and suddenly release, doing nasty things to your finger.

When you take the trigger pin out, remember that there is a small spring under that disconnector. Don't lose that spring!!!!!

After you rework the disconnector, when you push the trigger pin back in, again, press down on the shepherd's hook and make sure you get it into that groove in the pin. Also make sure that although unlikely, it didn't pull out of the hammer pin.

After you have the trigger assembly back in place you can now remove the tie from around the hammer spring, and again to save fingers, use needle nose pliers to lower them back onto the trigger arms. Make sure that the springs are over the arms otherwise trigger problems can occur.

Good luck with how ever you decide to take the slap out.

[sisyphus]

OK..........got it all apart, cut-off and put back together again as per instructions and precautionary pointers. That all helped immensely and I can't say just how good it is to have GN back so I can get this kind of help from people like all of you.

I also have to give a nod of recognition to the Russkomz and Mr. K. in particular for putting together something so simple that even laymen and peasants can use, maintain and repair with a few basic hand tools and supplies.

I might take it out Monday for a trial and make a report on how it works.

[slamfire51]

In regards to the Shepard hook, I some times use 2 E clips of the correct size (3/16").
To install on the hammer pivot pin, take a small pocket screwdriver and push the Hammer spring towards the right side of the receiver. Use needle nose pliers to put the E-clip in the pivot pin groove where the shepard wire goes.
Repeat for the trigger pin.

[sisyphus]

In regards to the Shepard hook, I some times use 2 E clips of the correct size (3/16").
To install on the hammer pivot pin, take a small pocket screwdriver and push the Hammer spring towards the right side of the receiver. Use needle nose pliers to put the E-clip in the pivot pin groove where the shepard wire goes.
Repeat for the trigger pin.

I can see where that should make it less likely to slip out of the grooves if you replace the shepherd's hook, but it would also make it more difficult for disassembly. As long as the S/H poses no problem with normal function I'd tend to stick with it. I also don't understand what benefit the sideplate sold by Tapco gives you, if the S/H work well. (???)

The AK is still pretty new to me compared to people like many here who have done a lot of work on them, so my thoughts are K.I.S.S. for my own benefit. Anybody that can clear those questions up for me, please do.

[slamfire51]

I can see where that should make it less likely to slip out of the grooves if you replace the shepherd's hook, but it would also make it more difficult for disassembly. As long as the S/H poses no problem with normal function I'd tend to stick with it. I also don't understand what benefit the sideplate sold by Tapco gives you, if the S/H work well. (???)

The AK is still pretty new to me compared to people like many here who have done a lot of work on them, so my thoughts are K.I.S.S. for my own benefit. Anybody that can clear those questions up for me, please do.

The TAPCO plate supposedly makes it easier to secure the pins. I bought one and sold it the next day.
Disassembly of the FCG is rarely needed. Once I put one in, it stays.
After you install and remove the s/h a few times, it becomes as easy as any other retainer.

[sisyphus]

Disassembly of the FCG is rarely needed. Once I put one in, it stays.

I can see where that makes sense. Unless it gets really dirty or breaks there's probably no reason to take it apart again (after this latest fix anyway). It's nice to know it's relatively easy to do if that need arises.