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Thread: honda atv mechanical woes........?s

  1. #1
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    honda atv mechanical woes........?s

    i tried to start my atv after a year of sitting and it ran real rough.after riding it for a few minutes it would bog out and die.....after a few times doing this my buddy told me to check the airbox,which had about 4 inches of standing gasoline in it.on a hunch he told me to check the oil.when i unscrewed the oil plug , gas came pouring out of it..i had left the petcock on all winter apparently......i just tipped the atv on its side and drained the oil/gas mixture.....any ideas..the atv is a 2001 honda trex 250 4 stroker.thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Senior Member abpt1's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by blobman View Post
    i tried to start my atv after a year of sitting and it ran real rough.after riding it for a few minutes it would bog out and die.....after a few times doing this my buddy told me to check the airbox,which had about 4 inches of standing gasoline in it.on a hunch he told me to check the oil.when i unscrewed the oil plug , gas came pouring out of it..i had left the petcock on all winter apparently......i just tipped the atv on its side and drained the oil/gas mixture.....any ideas..the atv is a 2001 honda trex 250 4 stroker.thanks in advance
    your carb is full o gue take it off and clean it out then clean your plug .......

  3. #3
    Guns Network Contributor 04/2013 El Laton Caliente's Avatar

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    II'd refill the oil, run it for just a couple minutes, drain & fill it again.

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    Team GunsNet Silver 12/2011 N/A's Avatar

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    Yep, float is stuck open.

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    man....i was hoping thats what you guys would say......i gotta gette'er up and running for spring

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    Quote Originally Posted by El Laton Caliente View Post
    I'd refill the oil, run it for just a couple minutes, drain & fill it again.
    I would do this, but first: drain all the old fuel out of your gas tank.

    Pull the carb and give it a good cleaning, especially if it hasn't been cleaned since it was new. DO NOT JUST TRY TO RUN SEAFOAM OR ANOTHER FUEL SYSTEM "CLEANER" THRU IT. Those products will not remove the crap from inside the carb, and any crap it may loosen up in the bowl of the carb has to come out somewhere. If you don't remove the bowl of the carb to dump the crap out it will try to go thru the jets, potentially plugging your carb up again or worse.

    You may also need a new float needle or both the needle and seat, and probably a new gasket/seal for the bowl.

    Hold all of your jets up to a light and make sure they are clean, if they are dirty use a thin wire to clean them (not a welding tip cleaner, unless you know what you are doing. It doesn't take much to open up one of those jets a bit and screw up your carb tuning.) You can use a bristle out of one of a metal bristled shop brush for this task.

    Blast everyting out good with Gumout or some other spray carb cleaner, a small wire brush and/or tooth brush works well for cleaning tight areas.

    I would also replace the fuel line from the tank to the carb. Hoses degrade fast nowadays, if your hose is bad small chunks of crap can go down the line into the carb and keep the needle from closing all the way.

    If you need any assistance, feel free to contact me. This is what I do for a hobby. Just this week I finished rebuilding a 1985 Honda 200S three wheeler with a few small hop ups installed:
    Honda XR200 Camshaft (higher lift/longer duration than the stock 200S cam)
    Honda XR200 Carb (to go with the bigger cam)
    Cleaned up the casting flaws in the intake manifold and port and polished the exhaust port. Also matched up the manifolds, basically removing any inconsistencies in the bore alignments.

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