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Thread: redoing the stock, what results?

  1. #1
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    redoing the stock, what results?

    I stripped the stock and wiped it down with boled lin seed oil 3 times with time in between.
    But in a day or so it looks like a dried up stock with no coating, is it stilled covered in BLO or did it dry up.
    Do I need to keep applying or go to something else now???

  2. #2
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    a good oil finish with blo will be several coats, and will never really get that galss smooth gloss if thats what your looking for. it takes a lng time to dry fully as wel, even the "fast drying" boiled stuff. it does penetrate very deeply and protect the wood very well, if the surface was clean before application. if you get enough coats on it (at least 10) and let it fully dry (up to 6 months) it can be somewhat polished to a bit of a shine.

  3. #3
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    not sure how they will work together, but i like to use the birchwood casey stuff, forget what its called, but it has a high solids content, and 3-4 coats WILL give you that high gloss glassy finish if thats what your looking for.

  4. #4
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    tru-oil

    http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/Fini...2-5b1b8a3f180e

    looks like it is linseed oil based, so you should be ok going over what you already have.

  5. #5
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    I think im going to let it air out a few days longer then really slop the Boiled lin seed oil on it and let it sit for a while.
    I don't want a plastic shine just wet looking like just applied BLO.

  6. #6
    Senior Member NAPOTS's Avatar

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    I like BLO on rifle stocks. I have done a few this way and will rub it in by hand fairly hard and then let it sit on the wood. It takes a lot of coats to get the wood to stop absorbing it. I will usually keep rubbing it on once a day until the wood wont take any more and then rag off the rest and then apply furniture wax. If you get a bit of a film on the wood that you don't want you can take it down with steel wool.

  7. #7
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    I took the gun all apart and rubbed the stock real smooth again.
    I put a nice coat of BLO on, waited a couple of hours and wiped it down, now i just put another coat on and in a few hours rub again.
    The last coat is going on at dark and stay on all night and tomorrow while im at work, then the results will be the "end results".
    Im glad i did it again because the wet look I thought I wanted is not what I wanted looking at a wet coat right after BLO.
    AT least now I know the BLO is penetrating the wood really good, so it will be a better looking gun than before.

  8. #8
    Senior Member Helen Keller's Avatar

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    what type of SKS wood stock??



    My thompson stock/forend has something like 75 coats of BLO/Cherry minwax mix on it. take your time and you'll get something nice.
    PRAISE KEK
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  9. #9
    Forum Administrator Schuetzenman's Avatar

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    Sorry to say it but really BLO is not the best finish for weapons stocks, it is just one of the oldest. As you've figured out by now, (read all the posts) it does soak in then look dry. What you don't know is, water will penetrate it slowly. It will turn milky looking when this happens. It can mildew if the weapon is put in a damp environment for long. In time it will darken substantially. It is VERY slow to dry, think week to two weeks depending on humidity in the air. Tung oil is far better and will dry much faster, won't mildew or darken with age. True Oil is a souped up BLO with chemicals init to speed drying. It will build up quickly and can fill pours in the wood. However it is a fairly soft finish and a lot of handling will wear through it, then again you can allways add more as it wears down. If you don't want a shiny finish you can rub it off with some 4 to 6 Ought steel wool or powdered pumice mixed with oil, usually BlO. You put that thin slury on a soft cotton rag, (old T-Shirt works well) and gently rub in small circular patterns moving around and not staying in one place too long. You can buff your way through the finish if you're too heavy handed. The result is a soft dull finish, sort of a Satin look. Not high gloss or dull flat nothing.

  10. #10
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    I really laid it on thick, Its still wet after 24 hours!!! but looks good and a bit darker.

  11. #11
    Conributor 09/13 slamfire51's Avatar

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    My Dad turned me on to Japan Drier when I was using BLO on stocks.
    He used it for oil based paints to accelerate the drying process. It works, you guys may want to give it a try.
    NOT for synthetic based paints/stains though.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oil_drying_agent
    There's no problem an AK can't solve...........


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  12. #12
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Helen Keller View Post
    what type of SKS wood stock??
    Im pretty sure its beech.
    Its a little shinier than i want but i think handleing will dull it down a little, I feel the stock is really protected now.
    The gun is back togather and ready for zombie action, well I have to get some stripper clips since I sold all I had when I got rid of the AK a few years ago.

  13. #13
    Junior Member

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    I use Minwax Tung Oil. I like shiny. Could dull by using steel wool to kill gloss. Very easy to use and dries VERY hard. Easy touch up.

    This is on a Norinco stock. VERY soft wood and kind of strange to work with but I was satisfied with results.

    Stock Refinish.JPG

  14. #14
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    I'm a fan of the True Oil.

  15. #15
    Senior Member binky59's Avatar

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    Yea Tru-oil, that shit works, dries nice between coats. I put 6 coats on raw wood
    and use 0000 steel wool between coats Tack rag after the steel wool, nice durable
    finish, used to use Watco Danish Oil finish. Thing is the wax after you finish, brings
    out the luster
    The Woodbutcher
    Just me and my monkey....

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