I picked up one of these, very well built and makes loading a cylinder much more efficient
http://www.blackdawgecartridge.com/c...yl_loader.html
I've not tried every cap available yet, but so far the Remmy #10s have worked well. I bought some RWS #1075s for the Treso nipples i have coming for my ROA, the site i bought them from said these nipples will work best with a #11 size cap.
I have found that cylinder design has a lot to do with the fired cap jamming up the cylinder. The ROA expends them pretty well, but the 1858 will have more jams if i don't pay attention.
Here's a couple charts that show the differences in cap sizing.
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...D2NkFu6NYOuU_w
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...5InXNZ1oM_j7eg
It seems that there is not much difference in diameter, the major difference is in the length of the cap which would seem to make some more difficult to seat on the nipple, depending on the characteristics of the nipple.
Last edited by davepool; 05-11-2013 at 09:24 PM.
When I first started out I had a .36 navy, I would use I think it was .380 round ball and they would just basically fall right into the cylinder. Every time I fired that thing all the other balls would jump forward and jam up the gun. Having no idea what I was doing I would just take a stick and push them back in.
I fired off 100 rounds that way before I went and got the right sized balls.
No wads, no grease, just loose balls over goex....never had a chainfire.
I figure people have to be right when they say chain fires happen from the cap side.
Makes me cringe thinking about how downright stupid I was back then. Really wish I would have had forums or at least an old hand to teach me back then.
I was fortunate to meet a man who is very active in a local BP shooters club on my first visit to the range with my new cap & ball revolver. I was invited to join and come to one of their meetings and shoots. Some of these guys are hard core black powder shooters, shooting duplex powder loads and doing stuff i don't think i'll ever try. A few of them make their own black powder, something i would like to try, and of course their recipes are "top secret, i'd have to kill you if i told you" stuff.
And most of them have "handles" like, "Snake eye sam", " Four finger Frank" and the like. The way it's going, i may have to change my user name to "Dangerous Dave" and start wearing a buckskin jacket ( already got the hat and boots )
Sounds great.
Shortly after my 18th birthday I drove half the night from St. Louis to Springfield with a buddy and camped out in the Bass Pro shop parking lot until they opened up, Picked up a Marlin 30/30 and that .36 "colt". Also picked up a Buck 110 folder and a Buck 105 fixed blade knife ...I still have the knives, but the guns have been long since traded away
On the way back we found an empty bit of land and I learned to shoot blackpowder reading the old CVA instructions that came with the gun. They generally still come with pretty lousy instructions and back then they were even worse.
Yep, the instructions i got with my new CVA in-line are still pretty basic, but this is the age of the internet and on their homepage they have links to several videos that offer some good tips for beginners.
I finished my 3 week long patio project last weekend so the next 3 weekends are mine (unless my wife changes my mind ) to enjoy my new shooting sport. I've found a lot more enjoyment in the slow pace of black powder shooting and the ability to adjust loads without sitting at the loading bench
I find it much more pleasant and enjoyable to shoot 30 rounds through my 61' Springfield just using lubed roundball in 2 hours or so between shooting the pistol than I do shooting all my other shit.I've found a lot more enjoyment in the slow pace of black powder shooting and the ability to adjust loads without sitting at the loading bench
Even using roundball I wouldnt want to be anywhere near a rifled musket within 300yds.
PRAISE KEK
FATHER OF CHAOS
BRINGER OF DAY
IN THY WEBBED HANDS WE PLACE OUR FAITH
SHADILAY, SHADILAY!
Once i get the hang of this in-line, i want to pick up a traditional cap lock or flintlock, might even try my hand at building a kit rifle. Got any suggestions?
Never messed with a kit before.
if I did I'd probly build a blunderbuss.
PRAISE KEK
FATHER OF CHAOS
BRINGER OF DAY
IN THY WEBBED HANDS WE PLACE OUR FAITH
SHADILAY, SHADILAY!
If you go traditional, decide which projectile you want to shoot. I prefer shooting round balls, so I try to get all my rifles with a 1:60" twist. The slower twist stabilizes the round ball better. If you're going to shoot conicals, then go for a faster twist barrel (forgot the twist ratio for those). If you're going to do a little shooting of both, then a 1:48" twist if the best choice as it will do a good job stabilizing both round ball and conical.
If you're going to shoot sabots, then you want as fast a twist as possible, somewhere in the 1:28" ratio area. (Not sure they make traditional rifles with that fast of a twist, though.)
"Valar morghulis; valar dohaeris."
Commucrats are most efficient at converting sins and crimes to accidents or misunderstandings.-Oswald Bastable
Making good people helpless won't make bad people harmless.
Freedom isn't free.
"Attitude is the paintbrush that colors our world." TV Series, Haven.
My Spirit Animal has rabies.
I'd rather be an American than a Democrat.
"If you can make a man afraid, you can control him" Netflix Series, The Irregulars
Some origianl Slug Guns as they were called had fast twists; 1 in 20, 1 in 18. They used paper patches to be the gas seal, these were two strips that were placed over the muzzle to form a + shape and the bullet was put in at the intersection over the bore. These rifles had False Muzzles to make such a loading technique possible. The longer the projectile, the faster the twist rate to stabilize it.
On round ball rifles, I've got 1 in 72" twist, 1 in 66" and 1 in 56". 1 in 48 in anything over 45 cal. can be very finicky and prone to blow out the patch from the pressure generated by the helix angle being so quick.
Bookmarks