Rattle Can Gun Paint

[slamfire51]

I need some help finding a rattle can bake on FLAT black paint. All I've found is matte or gloss.

Anyone know if Lauer DuraBake can be special ordered in flat black?
I don't want to use AlumaHyde 2 since it has to air cure for a week or more.

Need some help fast.

Combat Black is offered. Flat or ultra flat?
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.c...ategory_id=929

[Schuetzenman]

Let me say that most flat blacks will buff up from rubbing and end up matt or satin looking where they get rubbed.

[slamfire51]

Let me say that most flat blacks will buff up from rubbing and end up matt or satin looking where they get rubbed.

I noticed that as well.

[slamfire51]

I use brownells gunkote matte black. Have you checked to see if the have flat black in th rattle can?

Yep, just matte and semi-gloss/gloss.

[tank_monkey]

I need some help finding a rattle can bake on FLAT black paint. All I've found is matte or gloss.

Anyone know if Lauer DuraBake can be special ordered in flat black?
I don't want to use AlumaHyde 2 since it has to air cure for a week or more.

Need some help fast.

Combat Black is offered. Flat or ultra flat?
http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.c...ategory_id=929

Matte MEANS flat. You talking about SATIN? IN the art world (aka paints) and with housepainting, matte doesn't mean semi gloss, it means flat. Satin finish is what people usually call semi gloss. I think you fixed your own problem. Also you have to bake your parts after the paint dries to really make it a hard finish. I assume you're doing that.

[slamfire51]

Matte MEANS flat. You talking about SATIN? IN the art world (aka paints) and with housepainting, matte doesn't mean semi gloss, it means flat. Satin finish is what people usually call semi gloss. I think you fixed your own problem. Also you have to bake your parts after the paint dries to really make it a hard finish. I assume you're doing that.

I talked with them today, and they said their 'Tactical Black' is the only true flat they offer.

Yep, I bake @300 degrees for 15 minutes, just like GunKote.

[silentkilla]

I talked with them today, and they said their 'Tactical Black' is the only true flat they offer.

Yep, I bake @300 degrees for 15 minutes, just like GunKote.

i have an issue also slam. my glock has got a little wear on the paint job from the black hawk holster i use with it. will the spray paint you are talking about work on that as well?? not trying to derail your post so don't take it like that just wondering if the paint will work on my gun is all.. thanks

[slamfire51]

i have an issue also slam. my glock has got a little wear on the paint job from the black hawk holster i use with it. will the spray paint you are talking about work on that as well?? not trying to derail your post so don't take it like that just wondering if the paint will work on my gun is all.. thanks

As far as I know, the DuraCoat will work on plastic. But oven curing is another story....I have no clue.

PM Schuetzenman and ask him what happens when plastic is baked and how he did it.. LOL My FAL comes to mind....................

[silentkilla]

As far as I know, the DuraCoat will work on plastic. But oven curing is another story....I have no clue.

PM Schuetzenman and ask him what happens when plastic is baked and how he did it.. LOL My FAL comes to mind....................

i'm sorry bud i should have been a little more clearer. its on the slide about an inch past the muzzle

[slamfire51]

i'm sorry bud i should have been a little more clearer. its on the slide about an inch past the muzzle

You'll have to ask someone who knows about touch up.
I have no clue how to do what you want done...sorry

[silentkilla]

no problem man. thanks anyway!

[Schuetzenman]

i have an issue also slam. my glock has got a little wear on the paint job from the black hawk holster i use with it. will the spray paint you are talking about work on that as well?? not trying to derail your post so don't take it like that just wondering if the paint will work on my gun is all.. thanks

The Tenefer finish on the Glocks is a mystery on what it actually is. However, on the subject of Gun Kote and how to apply it. Usually it does not stick very well to anything not parkerized or freshly sandblasted and the dust layer removed. They make a clear material called K-Phos that is a Phosphate based coating like Parkerizing, only when it is dry it is clear. How I refinish entire weapons is to blast them off, clean them off with Acetone, dry them then airbrush on the K-Phos. I let it dry for about 30 minutes and then I airbrush on the Gunkote. You warm the parts up to 120 degrees before airbrushing the GK on, it helps flash off the MEK carrier for the pigments. The GK should be dry to the touch in 30 seconds or less if you apply to the warm part. Then you must handle them gently with cotton gloves or rubber gloves to keep oily finger prints off until you get them baked.

To Slamfire's statements on plastic, Gun Kote can be cured at lower temperatures but longer duration of bake time is reqired. He sent me a DSA rifle stock set that was polymer, it said made from Nyloin on the bag label. They 50% lied their asses off. The handguards were Nylon, the buttstock was Polypropylene and it freaking melted big time. I had to purchase a replacement buttstock and redo it. I then used 200 F for 4 hours to cure the GK, that worked but it was on the harry edge of melting the stock again. On the whole I would say there is risk in heat curing finishes on polymer. Even if it does not melt, it could shrink or warp. The nonbaked finish types would be what I recommend for polymer other than fiberglass.

[silentkilla]

The Tenefer finish on the Glocks is a mystery on what it actually is. However, on the subject of Gun Kote and how to apply it. Usually it does not stick very well to anything not parkerized or freshly sandblasted and the dust layer removed. They make a clear material called K-Phos that is a Phosphate based coating like Parkerizing, only when it is dry it is clear. How I refinish entire weapons is to blast them off, clean them off with Acetone, dry them then airbrush on the K-Phos. I let it dry for about 30 minutes and then I airbrush on the Gunkote. You warm the parts up to 120 degrees before airbrushing the GK on, it helps flash off the MEK carrier for the pigments. The GK should be dry to the touch in 30 seconds or less if you apply to the warm part. Then you must handle them gently with cotton gloves or rubber gloves to keep oily finger prints off until you get them baked.

To Slamfire's statements on plastic, Gun Kote can be cured at lower temperatures but longer duration of bake time is reqired. He sent me a DSA rifle stock set that was polymer, it said made from Nyloin on the bag label. They 50% lied their asses off. The handguards were Nylon, the buttstock was Polypropylene and it freaking melted big time. I had to purchase a replacement buttstock and redo it. I then used 200 F for 4 hours to cure the GK, that worked but it was on the harry edge of melting the stock again. On the whole I would say there is risk in heat curing finishes on polymer. Even if it does not melt, it could shrink or warp. The nonbaked finish types would be what I recommend for polymer other than fiberglass.

thank you big time for the information brother!! that helped me alot. now i have to find some gunkote. think i'm going to do the F.D.E finnish on the slide of my G19.

[slamfire51]

I went with DuraCoat's Shake 'N Spray in Tactical Black. http://www.houtsenterprises.net/dur_shakenspray.html
The Shake 'N Spray is as close to using a rattle can paint as you can get. Mix the pigment and hardner, shake for a few minutes and put into the paint jar and spray away.
So easy, a caveman's baby can do it.
4 oz. was just enough to paint all the individual parts and 30 rd. mag of an AK shorty pistol.
I'm letting it air cure for a few days before assembly.

The paint job couldn't be any better. I love this stuff.

Sand blasted pistol

[Schuetzenman]

That doesn't look very black, looks medium gray like parkerizing.

[slamfire51]

That doesn't look very black, looks medium gray like parkerizing.

Most sand blasted steel does look like that. LOL
The pic is the parts prior to painting.