Chinese Type 56 SKS (Rust / Identification)

[Krupski]

This stuff is hands down the best product I've ever found for removing surface rust from metal gun parts or bores & it's not as toxic as many other metal cleaners. It will not harm bluing as well: http://www.bluewonder.us/BlueWonderGunCleaner.html

Since bluing is an oxidation process, I wonder how this stuff can remove rust, but not bluing?

For light surface rust, I feel safer with a rough piece of flannel cloth and oil (plus a lot of elbow grease). For pitting, I would simply kick myself in the ass for letting it happen in the first place.

[Silentkilla01]

Gun addiction is a sick thing.

I loved my XD-9 so much I went and bought a XD-45 Tactical in stainless. I love that gun very much but it remains at home where it performs its nightstand duty. It has a sweet trigger and I've always had good luck tearing up the bullseye.

Now I want a Glock 34 and 41. Not to replace them but in addition to them. WTF is wrong with me?

Nothing at all is wrong with you bro. Your just a good ol boy from the south.

[Krupski]

Gun addiction is a sick thing.

I loved my XD-9 so much I went and bought a XD-45 Tactical in stainless. I love that gun very much but it remains at home where it performs its nightstand duty. It has a sweet trigger and I've always had good luck tearing up the bullseye.

Now I want a Glock 34 and 41. Not to replace them but in addition to them. WTF is wrong with me?

Absolutely nothing.

[FunkyPertwee]

Attachment 3101 here it is with a X-300 weapon light on it.

Very nice.

The TLR-1 was more in my price range so I went with that. Works well and produces 300 lumen. I'll probably get the TLR-1 HL next time, its 620 lumens for $125 or so.

[FunkyPertwee]

Nothing at all is wrong with you bro. Your just a good ol boy from the south.

Absolutely nothing.

Thanks.

I'm starting to think you guys are a bad influence though.

[Silentkilla01]

Thanks.

I'm starting to think you guys are a bad influence though.

Lmao!

[was_peacemaker]

Then place a drop or two of good gun oil everywhere one part touches another part. Hold the hammer back and pull the sear forward (you may need someone else to help you here) and put a little grease (moly disulfide if you have any) on the hammer / sear engagement points. Carefully hold the hammer from dropping, pull the trigger and slightly press on the disconnector lever (it takes practice!) and release / recock the hammer a few times to work the moly grease onto the sear surfaces. Be sure you control the hammer with your fingers - don't let it slam down or you might damage the whole assembly.

Be sure you leave the hammer cocked when you're done (else the trigger / hammer assembly won't go back in!)

Put a little moly grease on the top of the hammer (where the bolt slides over it) and put a drop of oil on each bolt carrier rail. Also put a drop or two of oil on the mating surfaces of the bolt and bolt carrier (or better, a thin film of moly grease on the shiny wear points - you'll see those clearly).

Swab out the bore to be sure it's clean (Hoppes #9, a nylon brush and a clean patch, repeat until the black and green shit stops coming out). Then wipe the bore down with a clean, sloppy wet patch soaked in Hoppes #9 or good gun oil.

Use a .38 cal or 9mm bore brush to clean out the gas piston tube, and use a wire wheel to clean the carbon soot off the piston head. The piston should slide freely in the tube. Don't oil that part (or if you do just WIPE is with an oily cloth - don't leave any wet oil) because it will burn the first time you fire the rifle and gum up the piston / tube assembly.

Lastly, the first time you take it out, load only one round and be sure it works, Then load three and make sure it doesn't "take off" (stuck firing pin or misadjusted disconnector).

Once you're happy with it, then load all 10 rounds. Stay away from those aftermarket 20 and 30 round SKS mags... none of them work properly.

Grease on the hammer? Mmmm...maybe I should try that. I will admit I have ran AK's and SKS's dry or with light oil when I was younger. When I got older, I started using more oil on them, but I know some guys who don't like oiling their guns up much. They claim it attracts dirt, and moisture.

[was_peacemaker]

What's it worth? No idea whatsoever. It kills bad guys, I guess that makes it priceless.

About $400-$500 bucks.

[Crucial]

Sweet, with my gift card for Classic Firearms along with their deal I paid $266.27 shipped (I opted for the hand pick and matching serials). I could have gotten it for roughly $222.00 if not, but from what others have received I feel the extra fee was worth it.

And they do not kill you with shipping, it was like $16 to ship, whereas other places charged upwards $20 - $30.

[Crucial]

Your firing pin is a bit dinged up, but nothing to worry about. Buy a new one if it bothers you.

As far as the action, taking it apart is easy if you know how. If not, you don't really need to take it apart.

Just take the trigger / hammer assembly (the part that pops off from the bottom) and soak the whole thing in a solvent until it's squeaky clean. Then dry it.

Then place a drop or two of good gun oil everywhere one part touches another part. Hold the hammer back and pull the sear forward (you may need someone else to help you here) and put a little grease (moly disulfide if you have any) on the hammer / sear engagement points. Carefully hold the hammer from dropping, pull the trigger and slightly press on the disconnector lever (it takes practice!) and release / recock the hammer a few times to work the moly grease onto the sear surfaces. Be sure you control the hammer with your fingers - don't let it slam down or you might damage the whole assembly.

Be sure you leave the hammer cocked when you're done (else the trigger / hammer assembly won't go back in!)

Put a little moly grease on the top of the hammer (where the bolt slides over it) and put a drop of oil on each bolt carrier rail. Also put a drop or two of oil on the mating surfaces of the bolt and bolt carrier (or better, a thin film of moly grease on the shiny wear points - you'll see those clearly).

Swab out the bore to be sure it's clean (Hoppes #9, a nylon brush and a clean patch, repeat until the black and green shit stops coming out). Then wipe the bore down with a clean, sloppy wet patch soaked in Hoppes #9 or good gun oil.

Use a .38 cal or 9mm bore brush to clean out the gas piston tube, and use a wire wheel to clean the carbon soot off the piston head. The piston should slide freely in the tube. Don't oil that part (or if you do just WIPE is with an oily cloth - don't leave any wet oil) because it will burn the first time you fire the rifle and gum up the piston / tube assembly.

Lastly, the first time you take it out, load only one round and be sure it works, Then load three and make sure it doesn't "take off" (stuck firing pin or misadjusted disconnector).

Once you're happy with it, then load all 10 rounds. Stay away from those aftermarket 20 and 30 round SKS mags... none of them work properly.

I totally missed this the first time around. Thank you so much for those tips.

Yeah, I wanted to keep it originally as possible with parts, I just wanted to make sure the firing pin didn't pose as a safety issue.

[Crucial]

Hey everyone,

I contacted Classic about the firing pin and they were kind enough to send me a complete bolt assembly free of charge. My concern now again would be head space as the bolt appears to be a Russian bolt.

Would you just shoot it and check the spent casing (steel), or would you invest in the gauges? If so, where the crap can you find 7.62 x 39? I've not seen them anywhere.

[Silentkilla01]

Hey everyone,

I contacted Classic about the firing pin and they were kind enough to send me a complete bolt assembly free of charge. My concern now again would be head space as the bolt appears to be a Russian bolt.

Would you just shoot it and check the spent casing (steel), or would you invest in the gauges? If so, where the crap can you find 7.62 x 39? I've not seen them anywhere.

Google head spacing for a Chinese ak-47 see what it is and get the gage it requires. Wish you were closer I have a good set of starrett feeler stock Gage's I'd let you use.

[Silentkilla01]

Edit Chinese Sks... Sorry