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Thread: Anyone do their own AR Trigger work?

  1. #1
    Senior Member L1A1Rocker's Avatar

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    Anyone do their own AR Trigger work?

    I don't see any reason to pay the high prices of fancy drop in trigger sets for ARs. I've been doing a lot of research on what kind of trigger work can be done to improve an AR's trigger and found it's rather easy to get match grade single stage triggers out of the factory stuff.

    My big question is on the set screw down the pistol grip screw hole trick. I've seen tutorials that simply say to screw it in until you hit the safety. Then back out 1/8 to 1/2 turn and it's set. I've also seen others that say to remove the safety, and screw it in until you are happy with it - so long as it passes a safety check. BUT, you may need to notch the top rear of the trigger to clear the safety with this method. Anyone with experience with this, what do you do?

    I've also seen one video of a guy drilling and tapping a set screw on the bottom of the receiver just in front of the trigger. He did this to adjust out overtravel. Is this really necessary after doing the other trick?
    He starts drilling for this at around 1:10. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrddFkqLvHc#t=13 Honestly, his back and forth stoning technique seen later in the video, did not empress me at all.

    The other stuff I'm planning is a light spring kit and just stoning down all the contact surfaces without changing any angles.

    Thanks for ya'lls input.
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  2. #2
    Forum Administrator Schuetzenman's Avatar

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    I either shoot it 100% stock or use an Arnold Jewell 2-Stage match trigger system.

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    Quote Originally Posted by L1A1Rocker View Post
    The other stuff I'm planning is a light spring kit and just stoning down all the contact surfaces without changing any angles.

    Thanks for ya'lls input.
    Nothing wrong with that. You could also just go thru and polish every part that makes contact with another using a dremel. I've done that on most all of mine.

  4. #4
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    i did a trigger on one of mine, very nice pull for $20 in parts. had i know then what i know now, however......

    what i did was to anneal the trigger, and drill and tap out a hole in the back for a set screw to adjust it. then wheni go to install it, i find the set screw is useless cuz its right iver the damn pistol grip screw hole. i ended up putting a threaded plug into the pg screw hole to more or less eliminate it and smooth out the fcg pocket hole bottom.

    in hindsight, realizing how its laid out now, id absolutely just put a screw up into the hole against the trigger to do it. ive never seen it done on the internet,or even knew other prople were doing it (that could have saved me a lot of time and having to figure it out on my own) but if i were doing it, id get/make 2 very short set screws, screw the first one in until i get the trigger just how i like it, then run the 2nd one up behind it to lock it in pace, (hopefully) leaving enough room for the grip screw. if not the set screws would have to be ground shorter.

    i left everything in place when adjusting mine, safety adn all. im not sure why you would need/want to remove the safety. i have an ar sitting 2 ft in front of me but im too lazy to open it up right now, and i cant picture how the safety would interfere in my head.

  5. #5
    Senior Member Aggressive Perfector's Avatar

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    I just polished the rough contact surfaces on mine and applied a light amount of oil. It doesn't seem much lighter, but is definitely smoother. Do this at your own risk though, the fcg parts are case hardened (which means hard outside, softer inside prone to more wear). If you go this route I recommend very fine honing/ polishing stones and absolute minimal material removal. If you even suspect that you broke through the hardening, buy a spare fcg just in case. My fcg has help up fine in the past few thousand rounds however.
    "Never take pity on a blind man. He may not be able to see, but he saves a fortune by getting the butt ugly hookers".

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    **Team GunsNet SILVER 12/2014** skorpion's Avatar

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    I know you said you didn't want to drop the money on a fancy trigger, but check out ALG Defense. It is a sister-company of Geissele started by Mrs. Geissele. Basically, they are affordable mil-spec single-stage triggers that are already smoothed out at all contact points. The Combat Trigger model is electroless nickel plated for lubricity and extra smoothness. Super-smooth triggers with no grit and a clean break.

    $45 for the standard and $65 for the nickel model. If you DIY you risk screwing up a trigger or hammer, especially with a Dremel.
    http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Searc...fg=ALG+DEFENSE
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    Senior Member AK-J's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by skorpion View Post
    I know you said you didn't want to drop the money on a fancy trigger, but check out ALG Defense. It is a sister-company of Geissele started by Mrs. Geissele. Basically, they are affordable mil-spec single-stage triggers that are already smoothed out at all contact points. The Combat Trigger model is electroless nickel plated for lubricity and extra smoothness. Super-smooth triggers with no grit and a clean break.

    $45 for the standard and $65 for the nickel model. If you DIY you risk screwing up a trigger or hammer, especially with a Dremel.
    http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/Searc...fg=ALG+DEFENSE
    +1 My thoughts as well.

  8. #8
    Senior Member L1A1Rocker's Avatar

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    Thanks for all the replies folks. Last night while watching TV I sat and played with the AR trigger components. (I stripped the receiver down to just the receiver with trigger parts in it.) I was able to look at engagement angles with the set screw screwed way in after removing the safety. I noticed two things.

    First that the safety acts as the over-travel stop for the trigger. Second, that with the safety out and screwing the set screw way in actually pre-loads the trigger causing the sear/hammer engagement to be lessened. This has me wondering; has anyone taken material off the bottom of the hammer rather than removing material off the top of the trigger to clear the safety? The results are the same, with less hammer/sear engagement.

    Regarding the ALG Defense triggers; That's a viable option if things go south with this home mod. I'll probably go ahead and re-harden the surfaces after polishing them just to be safe.
    US Constitution: Article 1 Section 8 Paragraph 4

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  9. #9
    Administrator Krupski's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by L1A1Rocker View Post
    I don't see any reason to pay the high prices of fancy drop in trigger sets for ARs. I've been doing a lot of research on what kind of trigger work can be done to improve an AR's trigger and found it's rather easy to get match grade single stage triggers out of the factory stuff.

    My big question is on the set screw down the pistol grip screw hole trick. I've seen tutorials that simply say to screw it in until you hit the safety. Then back out 1/8 to 1/2 turn and it's set. I've also seen others that say to remove the safety, and screw it in until you are happy with it - so long as it passes a safety check. BUT, you may need to notch the top rear of the trigger to clear the safety with this method. Anyone with experience with this, what do you do?

    I've also seen one video of a guy drilling and tapping a set screw on the bottom of the receiver just in front of the trigger. He did this to adjust out overtravel. Is this really necessary after doing the other trick?
    He starts drilling for this at around 1:10. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VrddFkqLvHc#t=13 Honestly, his back and forth stoning technique seen later in the video, did not empress me at all.

    The other stuff I'm planning is a light spring kit and just stoning down all the contact surfaces without changing any angles.

    Thanks for ya'lls input.
    I have these in all my AR rifles:

    (click pic for the link)



    They are inexpensive, feel great (2 stage) and install easily with no futzing around with screws or files.

    I use moly disulfide grease on the sear surfaces, btw...
    Gentlemen may prefer Blondes, but Real Men prefer Redheads!

  10. #10
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    I did my own trigger jobs back 15-18 years ago before all these custom triggers hit the market ... I squared up the front of the trigger and the edge of the hammer where they engage then smooth & re-harden them, I'd also trim the leading edge of the sear (hammer catch) ... then drill & tap the safety for a set screw ... Lastly on the hammer spring put about a 20 degree bend in the legs that retain the trigger axis pin. Essentially what you would end up with is a set tigger using the safety to set it.

    Since RRA came out with their 2-stage triggers that's all I use; sometimes you can catch them on sale for 25-50% off ... But if anyone is interested I can make a diagram of the mods when I get home and post it in the next day or two ... If you do this all liability is on you. You do have to keep in mind is to go slow, test frequently and if you remove too much metal, throw that part away & start again because you don't want to inadvertently make a run-a-way trigger

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