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Thread: AK 47 Muzzle Brake Question

  1. #1
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    AK 47 Muzzle Brake Question

    I am having trouble getting the Type 1 Muzzle Break off an InterArms Romanian AIM-G AK 47. The stud on the front sight tower will not depress far enough to let the brake rotate. The brake is loose, not seized, and I have soaked, and am soaking the stud with BreakFree.
    Any suggestions?

    RTBArms1603

  2. #2
    Team Gunsnet SILVER 05/2012 deth502's Avatar

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    id try tapping it in with a hammer.

    note the use of the word "tap" and not "pound"

  3. #3
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by deth502 View Post
    id try tapping it in with a hammer.

    note the use of the word "tap" and not "pound"
    Thanks for the reply.
    Forgot to mention, I already tried "tapping" it with a flat Punch. It did recess futher, but not enough.
    RTBArms1603

  4. #4
    Contributor 02/2014 FunkyPertwee's Avatar

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    Dremel off the tip of the plunger to shorten it? Just don't cut the whole thing off.
    "I'm fucking furious, I'm violently angry, and I like it. If you don't know what that feels like then I feel bad for you"

  5. #5
    Administrator Krupski's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by RTBArms1603 View Post
    Thanks for the reply.
    Forgot to mention, I already tried "tapping" it with a flat Punch. It did recess futher, but not enough.
    RTBArms1603
    I would use a propane torch and WARM (carefully) the front sight block. There may be dried grease or cosmoline in the plunger pin hole. If you warm it up (just to the point that it's uncomfortable to touch), then carefully tap the pin with a punch, it may displace the goo and go in further, allowing the muzzle device to turn freely.

    Do NOT get the metal too hot, or you could ruin the heat treat. Just 180 to 200 degrees F is enough.
    Gentlemen may prefer Blondes, but Real Men prefer Redheads!

  6. #6
    Team GunsNet Bronze 07/2011

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    Quote Originally Posted by Krupski View Post
    I would use a propane torch and WARM (carefully) the front sight block. There may be dried grease or cosmoline in the plunger pin hole. If you warm it up (just to the point that it's uncomfortable to touch), then carefully tap the pin with a punch, it may displace the goo and go in further, allowing the muzzle device to turn freely.

    Do NOT get the metal too hot, or you could ruin the heat treat. Just 180 to 200 degrees F is enough.
    Great idea!
    How about a blow dryer? Just to be safe.
    What temp does cosmoline melt at?
    RTBArms1603

  7. #7
    Administrator Krupski's Avatar

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    Quote Originally Posted by RTBArms1603 View Post
    Great idea!
    How about a blow dryer? Just to be safe.
    What temp does cosmoline melt at?
    RTBArms1603
    A hair drier probably won't do it. Use a propane torch. Don't blast the metal though... wave the flame back and forth over the metal and warm it slowly. Have a glass of water handy and every minute or so use a wet finger and touch the metal. As soon as a drop boils, that's hot enough. DO NOT OVERHEAT IT!

    When you're done, let the rifle air cool... DO NOT use water to cool it off.

    (edit to add): Of course, check the rifle and be sure it's unloaded and that the chamber is empty before starting work on it!
    Gentlemen may prefer Blondes, but Real Men prefer Redheads!

  8. #8
    Moderator & Team Gunsnet Platinum 07/2011 O.S.O.K.'s Avatar

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    If the heating doesn't work then I'd also recomend grinding a bit off of the end. You don't need that much protruding to hold the brake...
    ~Nemo me impune lacessit~




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