There are
two versions of the slant muzzle brake, both of which are
designed to eliminate felt recoil and reduce muzzle climb. The
first and most popular version is the threaded slant muzzle
brake. The brake attaches to the gun via threads at the
end of the barrel, similar to the head of a garden hose.
The second version is the set screw muzzle brake, which is
attached using screws to secure the brake in place. Both
brakes work well however, the threaded version is more
durable.
Threaded Version
Set Screw Version
Slant AK Muzzle
Brake
The slant AK muzzle
brake works as both a muzzle brake and as a flash hider. Officially
however, it is classified as a muzzle brake by the BATF.
The brake helps to control muzzle rise and keeps down dust
when firing from the prone position. The slant
brake works by deflecting the gases upwards causing the muzzle
of the rifle to be pushed back down, their for eliminating
muzzle rise.
As
previously discussed there are two basic types of slant muzzle
brakes, one being the pre-ban or threaded style and the other
is the post-ban set screw style. While they may look similar
in design they are used in totally different situations.
The threaded style are commonly seen on pre-ban rifles or are
tack welded on to post ban versions. However, if you do use
the threaded version on a post ban rifle you must make sure
you comply with section 922r. The set screw version is
commonly seen on post ban rifles, as they do not have threaded
barrels in order to comply with the 1989 ban. While the
threaded version of the brake is harder to install it is also
more durable. The set screw version requires holes to be
drilled in the end of the barrel to attach the brake.
Thus the set screw version is prone to flying off during rapid
fire, and just plain looks bad in
general.
Installation
For pre-ban rifles
installation of the threaded version is a snap. Simply
unscrew the old brake or muzzle nut and replace it with the
new one. For post-ban rifles the threaded version is
more difficult. You must purchase a tap and die set with
the matching configurations to thread your barrel. After
you have threaded your barrel you may attach the brake. You
must then either tack weld it or use solder it in place.
Personally I would pay a gunsmith to do this as it would be
cheaper then buying the tools and doing it your self. The set
screw version requires you to tap (a divot) the barrel.
You DO NOT drill a hole through the barrel. Instead you
put an indentation just deep enough for the screw to hold the
brake in place. Again I would let a qualified gunsmith do this
as it can ruin your gun if you are not careful. The most
important thing to remember is to keep the rifle legal, as it
is not worth spending the rest of your life in jail
over.
| AK-47.net: |
Rating:
 |
Quality:
8,
Posted: 18-July-2000
|
|
| Pros: |
The
slanted design helps dramatically in
controlling muzzle climb. Repeated shots are
easier to control thus yielding greater
accuracy. |
| Cons: |
The
set screw version requires drilling and
tapping of the rifle. Set screw
versions tend to fly off and look
unattractive. |
| Summery: |
If
you get this type of brake go with the
threaded version, anything else is a waist
of time and money.
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Phone:
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